Mbayse Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 So I've got a 2003 Subaru legacy 5 speed 2.5 with 181k miles I have this rattling noise in neutral with the clutch pedal released, but it goes away when I push the clutch pedal in. I recently pulled the motor to change the head gaskets and swapped the throw out bearing thinking that was the issue, but since doing that the noise hasn't gone away and has gotten worse. Upon further research I am starting to think it is the input shaft bearing. I'm thinking it's really not worth splitting the trans if this is the issue however if anyone can shed some light on this job that would be cool. My current intention is to find a trans that will swap to mine, however I need to find a trans with the same final drive. I have a line on a trans from an 05 Impreza that should be a 3.900FD. From the chart I'm viewing the final drive of my car depends on if it is an L or a GT. If an L then it is also 3.900FD otherwise it's a 4.111FD. here is the link I got these numbers from... http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/T...art_Public.pdf Firstly, can I find out if I have a GT or L from the VIN? If so is there a website to put it in for the build sheet like I've done with a Dodge truck before? Also, can someone just assure me that I'm reading this correctly just for some piece of mind? I don't want to put this trans in and have it mess something up or even buy it to have it not fit. Update: found my build sheet for my 2003 Subaru legacy L special edition making the factory final drive ratio 3.900. Unfortunately the trans owner has told me the car his trans is from was actually a 2.5rs making the final drive 4.111 Still looking to make sure I am reading the chart correctly for piece of mind, and whether or not I should swap the trans in the first place Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 the driveshafts will be a bit different on those two transmissions. the inner tri-pot assembly's would be different to be exact. just run your vin for recalls on a subaru dealership or SOA site and it should tell you GT or L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbayse Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 the driveshafts will be a bit different on those two transmissions. the inner tri-pot assembly's would be different to be exact. just run your vin for recalls on a subaru dealership or SOA site and it should tell you GT or L. Unfortunately I found the trans has a different final drive than mine. However if I got a regular 05impreza 5 speed that would be compatible based on final drive. Would I be able to swap over the inner tri-pot from my own original trans and just use my own drive shafts? Not exactly sure what that is but I'll look into it just to know. I also confirmed that I do indeed have an L model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 what brand throw out bearing did you use? Did you use a new fork, hardware and properly grease everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbayse Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 what brand throw out bearing did you use? Did you use a new fork, hardware and properly grease everything? Just used whatever they had at AutoZone. Replaced the two clips as well. Everything had gray grease all over it and I applied more to the throw out bearing on contact surfaces. Previous owner had claimed to of done the clutch, and it made sense the old bearing seemed fine when I had it out to compare to the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 A input shaft bearing will make noise almost always at any engine speed. It will also make more noise under a given load. The noise from a bad input shaft bearing will raise and lower with engine speed and not vehical speed. You will probably also hear no matter what gear you are in. Car-part.com Just get one out of the same year and submodel as your car. There is also a tag on the drivers side strut tower with the trans code on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbayse Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 A input shaft bearing will make noise almost always at any engine speed. It will also make more noise under a given load. The noise from a bad input shaft bearing will raise and lower with engine speed and not vehical speed. You will probably also hear no matter what gear you are in. Car-part.com Just get one out of the same year and submodel as your car. There is also a tag on the drivers side strut tower with the trans code on it. I've been doing some thinking on the subject and I'm wondering if maybe I needed a repair sleeve on the input shaft and the throw out bearing play on the shaft could be making this noise? Is the input shaft bearing even common? Most of the instances that I see with issues with it tend to be cars with more power behind them. I'll have to see if the noise gets louder or faster when driving and in all gears, but first I have to weld a resonator back on. Previous owner removed the factory one and put a high flow muffler on, so I can barely hear anything over the exhaust at the moment when gassing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Did you check the trans snout for scratches or gouges? Bad throw out bearings will chew them up and your TOB won't ride smoothly. The only down side to some snout repair kits is that the oversized TOB sucks. Also input shaft bearing is a more common failure due to lack of gear oil changes. Same way the autotrans center diff bearing go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbayse Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 Well, starting today the car dies when I release the clutch pedal in neutral. When I try to move in gear, the car goes nowhwere and also dies as soon as the clutch is fully released. Gonna be taking it apart sooner than I thought. Does this sound like it could be the input shaft bearing has had it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Sounds like the clutch is still engaged when you are releasing the pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbayse Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 Sounds like the clutch is still engaged when you are releasing the pedal. Any idea why it won't move at all either? Both 1st and reverse. Now that I think about it when I went to start it, sounded like there was an electrical short and it wouldn't turn over. I thought it was my battery connection, threw my jumper box on it and it started right up. Drove it about an hour then the next morning all of these symptoms occured, dying as soon as the pedal is released, not moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Take the air box off and have a helper push the clutch. The slave and fork should move smoothly if the throw out bearing is in good shape. Also grab the fork and make sure the TOB is still on. It could be a clutch problem more than the input shaft but you have to do the diagnostics and not guess or just fire the parts machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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