Splitfyre Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Hello LGT.com, I just want to hear some advice from the forum here regarding the best option for lowering my vehicle. Coming from Hondas with coilovers, that was my initial plan but after putting some Impreza suspension with lowering springs on my old Forester, it changed everything. The drop was perfect and ride comfort wasn't sacrificed at all. I am opting generally for the JDM Bilstein set-up to go into my 08 Outback 2.5i AT. Here are the choices: 1. Local forum member offered $400 for his old set that has 80K according to him. It will come with the Bilstein shocks, oem springs, King springs (higher spring rate), and 3/8 saggy butt spacers for the rear. 2. JDM parts importer that sells the oem Bilstein set-up for $460 shipped to me. Still waiting for them to reply with the approximate kilometers on the set-up. https://www.japandirectjapanese.com/subaru/legacy-outback-2005-2009/jdm-subaru-legacy-bilstein-front-rear-shocks-struts-coil-springs-suspension-2005-2009.html?___SID=U 3. Same importer selling Bilstein with STI pinks for $710 shipped. Again waiting for the reply. https://www.japandirectjapanese.com/subaru/legacy-outback-2005-2009/jdm-subaru-legacy-bilstein-front-rear-shocks-struts-pink-coil-springs-suspension-2005-2009.html Is there a really big difference between the oem springs and pinks? Is it worth the extra amount? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 I have had basically all those set ups. I would get either 1 or 3. Hard to justify 300 more for Pinks though. My current set-up is JDM Pinks front and King springs rear. Which is really nice. But if I had to choose Kings or Pinks I would choose Kings. I do not like the Pink springs rear. I had to add an inch of spacer (maybe even 1.5) to get my car to sit the slightest bit raked. And the second I put in any weight (110 pounds of dogs) the rear sagged like crazy. The kings do a much better job of keeping a wagon acting like a wagon. On the front Pinks are great though. The OEM (JDM) springs were a little soft / floaty for me. I am sure King springs all around would have made me happy though. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 I have had basically all those set ups. I would get either 1 or 3. Hard to justify 300 more for Pinks though. My current set-up is JDM Pinks front and King springs rear. Which is really nice. But if I had to choose Kings or Pinks I would choose Kings. I do not like the Pink springs rear. I had to add an inch of spacer (maybe even 1.5) to get my car to sit the slightest bit raked. And the second I put in any weight (110 pounds of dogs) the rear sagged like crazy. The kings do a much better job of keeping a wagon acting like a wagon. On the front Pinks are great though. The OEM (JDM) springs were a little soft / floaty for me. I am sure King springs all around would have made me happy though. Thank you for the reply. I also forgot to add that option 1 is also offering me his old oem LGT upper control arms if I ever decide to get them. Option 1 really sounds like a good deal, just skeptic about the kilometers on it and what could I replace the Bilsteins with in case they are shot. Of course I will also inspect the shocks for leak/s prior to purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 I have 80k miles on mine and they are still doing okay. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 I have 80k miles on mine and they are still doing okay. Thanks! I guess that answers my question. And to think about it, I will still have money leftover to get a rear toe/camber kit. And possibly a better rsb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 Don't forget to factor in getting a good alignment and possibly those rear arms as dropping the car that much from OB height to a lowered Legacy height will definitely throw off your alignment by a lot. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tronic Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 I would never waste money trying to get an Outback to handle like a Legacy, the body may look the same but its a totally different car. Sell the Outback and buy a Legacy. I would go on to say the JDM Legacy is another level up on the NZ spec Legacy. It still has features not found on our NZ spec cars 13 years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 It's a totally different car is it? Please what are all the differences that make it totally different? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 Don't forget to factor in getting a good alignment and possibly those rear arms as dropping the car that much from OB height to a lowered Legacy height will definitely throw off your alignment by a lot. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Yes, I already talked to my friend that works at a shop to do the alignment for me when we install the set. The seller is also including the arms with the sale. And if they don't work, I'll just order adjustable ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 I would never waste money trying to get an Outback to handle like a Legacy, the body may look the same but its a totally different car. Sell the Outback and buy a Legacy. I would go on to say the JDM Legacy is another level up on the NZ spec Legacy. It still has features not found on our NZ spec cars 13 years later. I'm not too sure where you got the idea that I want to make it "handle" like a Legacy, but thanks for your opinion. I wanted to lower the vehicle properly with the available suspension mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 What arms is the seller including? Your rear camber will be way out of whack. Any legacy arms aren't going to fix it (they are the same basically as the Outback) The Legacy Upper control arm (UCA) is great because it gives you an additional inch of travel before bottom out bumper is hit (make sure to buy the Legacy bottom out bumper - it's also shorter than the Outback). You can add Whiteline KCA399 adjustable camber bushing to the UCA to try and help with the rear camber. Even with that bushing I was still at -2. Note, I drove like that for years and it was fine(ish). I had some increased tire wear. I finally added the adjustable arms from Whiteline (KTA124) so that I could get rear camber dialed to exactly what I wanted. You will need some form of aftermarket rear camber control. The cheap method (bushing) sort of works but adjustable arms are the best. \ I used the bushing when I was still 1.5 inches high than a legacy (stacked strut top spacers). At Legacy height there just isn't enough adjustment in the bushing to dial in a "good" alignment. An Outback is very similar to a Legacy. The differences are in a few key places. But the biggest one is that there is a body lift / drivetrain drop that effects the entire drivetrain. There are spacers all along the body to drop the key bits lower to the ground to help with the driveshaft angles. I pretend that this makes me handle better than a Legacy because now that I am lower, I have a lower center of gravity That being said - in general the goal is never "handle like a Legacy - although that's pretty easy to get to" the goal is "handle better than a stock Outback" and the suspension mods are completely worth it. Just watch what this guy can do - https://www.youtube.com/user/oldskoolbiker His suspension mods are pretty reasonable. His engine is over the top bonkers. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 Oh, one last thing, you will probably need strut top rear spacers. No idea what height, but the Outback's are a little heavier and sag more in the back. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 The seller is including the Legacy UCA's, and a pair of 3/8 rear spacers. He said I just need the adjustable toe arms and the bump stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 What arms is the seller including? Your rear camber will be way out of whack. Any legacy arms aren't going to fix it (they are the same basically as the Outback) The Legacy Upper control arm (UCA) is great because it gives you an additional inch of travel before bottom out bumper is hit (make sure to buy the Legacy bottom out bumper - it's also shorter than the Outback). You can add Whiteline KCA399 adjustable camber bushing to the UCA to try and help with the rear camber. Even with that bushing I was still at -2. Note, I drove like that for years and it was fine(ish). I had some increased tire wear. I finally added the adjustable arms from Whiteline (KTA124) so that I could get rear camber dialed to exactly what I wanted. You will need some form of aftermarket rear camber control. The cheap method (bushing) sort of works but adjustable arms are the best. \ I used the bushing when I was still 1.5 inches high than a legacy (stacked strut top spacers). At Legacy height there just isn't enough adjustment in the bushing to dial in a "good" alignment. An Outback is very similar to a Legacy. The differences are in a few key places. But the biggest one is that there is a body lift / drivetrain drop that effects the entire drivetrain. There are spacers all along the body to drop the key bits lower to the ground to help with the driveshaft angles. I pretend that this makes me handle better than a Legacy because now that I am lower, I have a lower center of gravity That being said - in general the goal is never "handle like a Legacy - although that's pretty easy to get to" the goal is "handle better than a stock Outback" and the suspension mods are completely worth it. Just watch what this guy can do - https://www.youtube.com/user/oldskoolbiker His suspension mods are pretty reasonable. His engine is over the top bonkers. Thanks again for your input! Can't wait to get this set-up now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitfyre Posted April 6, 2019 Author Share Posted April 6, 2019 So just an update regarding the local seller of the said JDM Bilstein set-up: I messaged him as soon as I got my tax refund that I will pick them up, and all he replied was he's from out of town all of a sudden. At this point I am undecided if I still wanna go through with even touching the OB since I'm planning to get a used FXT early next year. My question now will be "if ever" I still want to lower the OB, would suspension from a 2.5i sedan also work? Reason I ask is that those are the most common ones around wreckers and local classifieds. And if so, would I still need the rear lateral links for toe adjustment even though I'm not going that low? Saggy-butt spacer would be needed for sure and some front camber bolts. Right now I just think that is the most inexpensive option. Thanks for looking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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