Mark N Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Of course, now that my 2016 has 40,000 miles, the troubles will start. My car has a window activation switch that has gone south on me. The switch is on the drivers side door console, but it is the switch the controls the passenger side, front window. It will power the window up, but not down. The passenger side switch that controls that same window works fine. It's just the driver's side control that isn't working. Any advice on how to troubleshoot and remedy this without having to take it in to a dealer would be most welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTG Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 I would order a new switch online and see if that fixes it. I am sure you can source a used switch on eBay or buy a brand new one. If that doesn't fix it, then take it in. Subaru might even do a good will warranty since your warranty recently expired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waldguy Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Of course, now that my 2016 has 40,000 miles, the troubles will start. My car has a window activation switch that has gone south on me. ... I thought based on your post title, you were going to list maybe 3-5 serious issues! One window switch failure may not be that evil omen suggesting a cascade of issues that will drive you into bankruptcy. Expect a few issues with any car you keep past warranty and you'll enjoy your car more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Easy things first. Have you tried performing the window initialization procedure per the Owners Manual? "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Easy things first. Have you tried performing the window initialization procedure per the Owners Manual? Perform it several times, if it doesn't work the first time or two. I screwed it up the first couple of times I tried it, but eventually got it to work. I don't recall what I was doing incorrectly. Was your battery disconnected for any period of time recently? Did the switch slowly get worse or did it simply stop working and hasn't worked since? I agree that you're thread title is a bit over-the-top. I was expecting to read a thread about how your CVT is borked with 101k miles, your engine spun a bearing at 61k miles or a litany of smaller issues. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Your issues are minor compared to mine.... 3 years to get a tstat replacement 2 years and still have p0171 code when 30f or colder outside... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 p0171 code when 30f or colder outside... Have you done a smoke test when the car is cold and it's less than 30f out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 The dealer supposidly did... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wankey Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Sorry but my Legacy's warranty went up ages ago, and I haven't had a single problem yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norskie Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Our outback had this problem too. Other switches (power seats etc) started doing it too ... just had to wiggle them a bit to remind them what their function was ... but at 160k+ it was just one of many small niggles that we couldn't be bothered to fix. In your case, at 40k and > 100k left of life in the car, I can see the value of fixing it (and staying on top of other things). Take the door apart to get at the wiring harness, then take apart the connectors and clean with electrical contact cleaner then apply di-electric grease. If that doesn't work swap out the switch itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Our outback had this problem too. Other switches (power seats etc) started doing it too ... just had to wiggle them a bit to remind them what their function was ... but at 160k+ it was just one of many small niggles that we couldn't be bothered to fix. In your case, at 40k and > 100k left of life in the car, I can see the value of fixing it (and staying on top of other things). Take the door apart to get at the wiring harness, then take apart the connectors and clean with electrical contact cleaner then apply di-electric grease. If that doesn't work swap out the switch itself. Some of you might be surprised to find out how many problems are fixed by taking connectors apart and reconnecting them, to break up any corrosion that might have formed. As you say, I also make a habit of adding dielectric grease to any connector that comes apart for any reason. If I'm detailing, which admittedly doesn't happen often enough, I'll also preemptively disconnect and seal easily accessible connectors. // Example: My uncle's brake lights stopped working. Actually, I think the third brake light worked, but the two main lights remained off when the brake pedal was depressed. He thought I was a freaking genius mechanic when I slid up under the dash and simply disconnected and reconnected the switch connector and fixed it for him! '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norskie Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Some of you might be surprised to find out how many problems are fixed by taking connectors apart and reconnecting them True! I've lost count of how many times I've taken something apart, can't see a problem, reassembled, and now it's fixed even though I didn't think I did anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyR Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 True! I've lost count of how many times I've taken something apart, can't see a problem, reassembled, and now it's fixed even though I didn't think I did anything. Me too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tronic Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Have you done a smoke test when the car is cold and it's less than 30f out? Whats a smoke test ? is that when you get so pissed off with the car you pour gas on it and light it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Haha, I think you know, but I'll throw this out there anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chowser51 Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Anyone know if the initialization fixed OP’s issue? It fixed mine after a battery change. I only had my Legacy for 49 months/73k miles before I traded it in. Worked great for me. I might be back for the 2020 Legacy. I was mistaken that I no longer needed a larger car since my daughter started driving. I’ll keep the BMW as a fun/off days car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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