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Check Engine/Cruise Control


b_h_87

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Ok so one day i race a SVX....and my boost controller was on and it spiked....so then my check engine light comes on ( normal ) and my cruise starts to flash.......so i pull over read the manual it says if its flashed it means its deactivated...and usually it deactivates when i push it before starting the car.... ?? ... ne ways..... im just driving i have a EBC so its off..... and than i pull into a parking lot to park when HEY it happened again....this time i try to reactivate it like in the owners manual and assuming the check engine will go away...but it doesnt.....so now im waiting for the car to cool off before i go look at it....but ne ideas why its happening? even when ymboost is off?..
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If you throw a CEL and the cruise is blinking it will only clear 3 ways.....

 

1) with an Accessport

2) With a trip to the dealer

3) Disconnect the batter for an amout of time. Usually 30 mins

 

But most likely after you clear it, it will come back if there is a real problem with the setup.

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If you throw a CEL and the cruise is blinking it will only clear 3 ways.....

 

1) with an Accessport

2) With a trip to the dealer

3) Disconnect the batter for an amout of time. Usually 30 mins

 

But most likely after you clear it, it will come back if there is a real problem with the setup.

 

usually if i want to reset the computer... i disconnect the battery and step on the brake to drain the energy thats lingering

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You can also clear the code with an OBD-II scantool.

 

However, you should read the code first, and address any problems you may be having - this seems recurring, and is worth investigating.

 

Best of luck!

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Had the same exact problem........i drove like 100 feet with the check engine light on and the cruise blinking.......was this a bad idea? I turned the car off for about 3 minutes......drove another 100 feet turned engine off for another 3 minutes and the engine light was gone but cruise was still blinking.......a few hours later it went away.

 

Did i mess up my car....sorry i am a noob at cars computers are my thing :), but i am loven the car besides the fact that i think i messed the engine up that one day.

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Had the same exact problem........i drove like 100 feet with the check engine light on and the cruise blinking.......was this a bad idea? I turned the car off for about 3 minutes......drove another 100 feet turned engine off for another 3 minutes and the engine light was gone but cruise was still blinking.......a few hours later it went away.

 

Did i mess up my car....sorry i am a noob at cars computers are my thing :), but i am loven the car besides the fact that i think i messed the engine up that one day.

 

Our owner's manual states that the cruise/CEL combo indicates the ECU has detected fault(s) within the emissions control equipment in our vehicles.

 

From your description above, bigyeah, it seems most likely that you either experienced some kind of electrical "hickup" that caused the CEL, which then self-resolved, or that perhaps your gas cap wasn't on quite securely enough, or some other very small and very temporary mechanical hickup may have tripped one of the emissions-failure codes.

 

Typically, it takes quite a few "drive cycles" (assuming that you don't simply fully discharge the ECU power supply, which makes for a hard reset) for the ECU to reset any CEL code(s). I believe that for even the p0420 code, it takes upwards of 20-30 drive-cycles for this code to self-resolve, if the ECU's not "reset" after a fix.

 

As such, your code's self-resolution, in such a short time, leads me to believe that it's some kind of hickup....just keep an eye on things, and if it returns, get the code pulled so you know what's going on. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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This combination happened to me when I forgot to connect the airbox harness after replacing the air filter. I replaced the harness and the lights went out about two hours later. Most one-time faults like your spike and my forgetfullness are cleared after something like 5 ignition cycles and 30 miles or something like that. Battery is probably the best way to correct the problem but you can always try turning it off and on a few times.
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  • 2 weeks later...

the CEL/blinking CC light happened to me this weekend... i was driving in snow for the first time (yipee), and was turning around on a hill, backing up facing downhill. the front tires spun briefly (which i was surprised about b/c i expected the AWD to kick in faster) and the ABS light came on first, then changed changed to CEL/CC combo after i was done backing up. The next day after a few restarts everything was cleared and the CC works. I am attributing it to a minor hiccup in the system from spinning the tires in the snow for the first time. i think the car was just pleasantly surprised!

 

My mom's forester had the same CEL/CC symptoms (actually doing it again right now). She had it fixed once last year but i can't remember what it was exactly. anyways, she's getting it fixed again and i'll try to find out what.

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Well, yea, that's correct for auto transmission, although that's governed by a computer that's operating an electronic clutch. Still...I've never felt it "kick in" either on my 97 OB or my 05 XT (both autos)...including during some extensive rocking to get my 97 out of a serious snow drift.

Most of you guys have manuals though & the manuals simply have a viscous limited slip center differential that splits power front to rear...so, yea, it's always split & unless it breaks, you shouldn't ever feel it "kick" at all...in or otherwise.

That out of the way...my XT is now throwing a CEL (after the first weekend of serious winter driving)...WTF is up with that? It's P31 or something - fuel mixture running too rich. I had the dealership in Mizzo clear it so I could drive home, then had it come back the next day (when I had to drive 400 miles home & it wouldn't allow me to use cruise) and cleared it with an OBD II scanner at Checker so I could use cruise on the trip. As soon as I got home, the CEL came back...at least it waited eh? Going in to the dealer Thurs to get it fixed...

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Twice, I have had the CEL/cruise combo and both times (a week apart) it happened the same day that a very well-intentioned old man at the gas station put regular into the OB XT. Both times, the lights came on and the car had nearly the power of a lawnmower. :icon_surp After a half mile of driving, I pulled over, turned the car off, checked the gas cap (the first time it happened), turned the car back on and had normal power (thankfully) but the CEL/cruise lights were still on. Both times it happened, I was on my way to church and when I drove home afterwards the lights were off. I attribute it to a slight hiccup in the engine management trying to compensate for crap fuel. This seems to be my mechanic's conclusion as well.

 

I don't let the nice old man fill the car up anymore. :icon_neut

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No mods & no nice old men. I always run 91 (highest you can get in MT). I ran 89 for a tank when I first got it 8000 miles ago, but didn't have any probs with that. I also thought it was perhaps a bad tank of gas, but seeing as it came back after another tank and a half later, I'm not so sure that's the problem.

No worries. No mods & 91 fuel, well under warranty, it's the dealer's problem...just annoying is all. It seems to me a car with 8600 miles shouldn't need it's ECU/fuel management reprogrammed. I wonder if the MAF is bugging out the ECU & causing it to dump a lot more fuel in to compensate for the cold damp air.

Actually, now that I think about it, "too rich" means it's not taking advantage of the higher octane fuel & running enough boost to burn it...maybe I just need an accessport with a 93 map :) *evil grin* FWIW, I've never experienced the studder others talk about on 91 (or the one tank of 89) MT gas either.

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  • 3 years later...

4/30 Have an 06 obxt 5eat, used the 30 min battery disconnect method to remove the blinking cruise light and engine light. Scenario, just driving with cruise on, and it turned the cruise off and the two lights came on. no mods.

 

Thanks for the info. Hopefully it wont come back.

 

7/10 Spoke to soon. came on a again, same scenario at 50k miles.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just got the same CEL/CC blinking combo. The code came back as "system running lean - bank 1" with a couple probable causes including MAF sensor, clogged injector, vacuum leak, or low fuel pressure. I unhooked the battery and it went away for a couple days before coming back. It first came on when I ran the tank down really really low before refilling, so I'm wondering if there was dirty gas that usually floats on top of the tank that made its way into the fuel lines and filter. I'm going to try using some fuel system cleaner, and see what that does.

 

EDIT: CEL/CC lights went off again this morning (5/27)... hopefully that the end of it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

05 lgt 5eat. mine first came on during regular driving. disconnected battery for 30 min, hit the brake pedal. that solved it. then about a month or two later, the light came back on during regular driving.

 

EDIT: just had my code pulled today at pep boys. same as above, says system running lean, bank 1.

 

on a side note, can someone tell me how i can pull the codes by myself without a scan tool?

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Mine went back on two days later.... took it in for service and they said it was running lean and I had a dirty MAF, and the airbox wasn't sealed correctly. All they did was clean the MAF, not replace.
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The brand is some no-name crap, «Autel». Works fine tho. Subaru, Toyota, BMW, etc...

 

No upgrade that I can think of, but it did pull some codes (for a Mazda protegé) that were not in the included manual. I just googled the code up.

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