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Engine idle a bit off with a.c. running


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Idle never burps with no ac running. With the ac running, sitting at a traffic light, now and then there can be some engine burps.

 

With 37,000 miles on the odo I can't imagine any issues with sensors or MAF, etc. It isn't a big issue but just not a perfect idle. I just had the ecm updated, there are no updated in waiting so it can't be an update issue.

 

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

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It actually can. Idle stability and throttle position sensor range must be re-learned after ECU update or reset.

 

 

You can also adjust your idle RPM target and cold/warm/hot start RPM drop off profiles in the tune without changing anythig else if you desire.

 

 

Read up on the ECU reset TPS and idle re-learn procedure. Its easy.

 

 

And at 38K, give that MAF a good cleaning.

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It actually can. Idle stability and throttle position sensor range must be re-learned after ECU update or reset.

 

 

You can also adjust your idle RPM target and cold/warm/hot start RPM drop off profiles in the tune without changing anythig else if you desire.

 

 

Read up on the ECU reset TPS and idle re-learn procedure. Its easy.

 

 

And at 38K, give that MAF a good cleaning.

I guess it is time to pull out the can of MAF cleaner.

 

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

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the AC is not the issue, it is literally on all the time. 2013+ legacies/outback use a clutch-less design that has a variable geometry (displacement) compressor. capacity varies anywhere from 2% to 100% and it is all computer controlled.

 

If your car is not idling right, connect a data logger to it and see what the sensors are telling you.

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Could do that but it doesn't always do it but when it does do it, the AC is under load.

 

For kicks and giggles I cleaned the MAF today. Why? Because it is easy and for a just in case scenario that it has a slight bit of dirt and isn't metering correctly at idle with the AC under load.

 

the AC is not the issue, it is literally on all the time. 2013+ legacies/outback use a clutch-less design that has a variable geometry (displacement) compressor. capacity varies anywhere from 2% to 100% and it is all computer controlled.

 

If your car is not idling right, connect a data logger to it and see what the sensors are telling you.

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if your MAF is not metering correctly, engine load is irrelevant as it is measuring airflow past the sensor.

 

idle warm and no load should be 2.3 to 2.6 grams a second... if you are in the 4 to 5 range, replace your sensor.

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My Idle w/Full Auto on, in park, will go to 900rpm after a minute or so...

 

I can get it to drop 650 or so by taking it off 'Full Auto' by decreasing Fan Speed one notch...

 

Normal?

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I guess I need to hook up my meter and do some data recording. Ha! My wife never noticed but me....I get anal over such stuff. Aiming for perfection. :spin:

 

QUOTE=YeuEmMaiMai;5814543]if your MAF is not metering correctly, engine load is irrelevant as it is measuring airflow past the sensor.

 

idle warm and no load should be 2.3 to 2.6 grams a second... if you are in the 4 to 5 range, replace your sensor.

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