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Random thoughts and questions and such


birdmayne
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1) Hybrid boost control. I get how it works and why people use it. But, assuming a fully tuned engine at 20psi, will lowering the boost level cause issues? Mainly, fueling and timing. How much of the fueling is metered by the MAF in this regard, all of it? Any issue with timing? The ecu will be looking for 20 psi, but never reaching it.

I ask because I really like the idea of having a Valet mode of sorts, lowering boost to 12psi or less, depending on the circumstances.

1a) Is hybrid even worth it or effective with an IWG? I always see them setup with an EWG.

 

2) I have a terribly annoying heat shield rattle, and am seeing increasingly high Knock Sum under normal driving conditions. *NOTE* I also have intermittent cylinder 2 and 3 misfires under very light load or while cruising. This engine is getting very tired, and will not be in the car for much longer. That being said, is it likely or unlikely that I am just seeing a ton of false knock? Timing is occasionally being pulled during medium to WOT pulls, but not consistently. I'm not sure if I care or not...

 

3) I downloaded a generic Stage 1 LGT map off RR and started editing my stock ROM, copying the numbers over. I noticed that some of the parameter numbers do not match up to mine. Example: Turbo Dynamics Proportional gives values relating to [-3, -2, -.97, -.19, 0, .19, .39, .97, 5] where as the ROM from my ECU gives TDP vales relating to [-2.9, -0.97, -.39, -.19, 0, .19, .39, .97, 2.9]. I don't know what to make of that. Any input?

 

4) I recall a couple of members having installed an FP Green on their LGTs, but I forget who. I would like to pick their brains if anybody knows who has one or just has one!

 

5) I hate being the only person in my friend group that is in to cars at this level.

Edited by birdmayne

John Hancock

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1) Hybrid boost control. I get how it works and why people use it. But, assuming a fully tuned engine at 20psi, will lowering the boost level cause issues? Mainly, fueling and timing. How much of the fueling is metered by the MAF in this regard, all of it? Any issue with timing? The ecu will be looking for 20 psi, but never reaching it.

 

I ask because I really like the idea of having a Valet mode of sorts, lowering boost to 12psi or less, depending on the circumstances.

 

1a) Is hybrid even worth it or effective with an IWG? I always see them setup with an EWG.

 

 

 

All fueling and timing is based on the MAF. If the car is tuned properly, it’ll still meter fuel and set timing aproperly even if you removed the turbine/compressor from the turbo and it was making 0 boost.

 

 

 

If actual boost is lower than target boost in a hybrid setup, the only issue regarding fueling/timeing is the tip-in boost tables. That’s a rather minor thing.

 

 

 

It can still help with an IWG. You just see it more on EWG setups because it takes the fluttering sound. I’m running it to tame spikey boost on my IWG BNR 16G:

9121932150837db43e6af87e7cdfc854.heic

 

Note the GS MBC on top of the EBCS, they are hooked up in parallel.

 

If you want a valet mode, having a switch to force open the EBCS is the simplest solution.

 

3) I downloaded a generic Stage 1 LGT map off RR and started editing my stock ROM, copying the numbers over. I noticed that some of the parameter numbers do not match up to mine. Example: Turbo Dynamics Proportional gives values relating to [-3, -2, -.97, -.19, 0, .19, .39, .97, 5] where as the ROM from my ECU gives TDP vales relating to [-2.9, -0.97, -.39, -.19, 0, .19, .39, .97, 2.9]. I don't know what to make of that. Any input?

 

You can change the scaling axis. MickeyD2005’s stage 2 map is probably a better starting point. If you’re EWG the boost control stuff will look extreamly different from what you should run.

 

4) I recall a couple of members having installed an FP Green on their LGTs, but I forget who. I would like to pick their brains if anybody knows who has one or just has one!

 

 

 

Kind of an old turbo at this point. If you want that power level, there are ones out there with better areo now.

 

 

 

5) I hate being the only person in my friend group that is in to cars at this level.

 

 

 

I hear you there. I don’t talk about this hobby to anyone IRL. They just know I have the old wagon that’s kind of fast but is broken all the time. :lol:

Edited by utc_pyro
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All fueling and timing is based on the MAF. If the car is tuned properly, it’ll still meter fuel and set timing aproperly even if you removed the turbine/compressor from the turbo and it was making 0 boost.

 

If you want a valet mode, having a switch to force open the EBCS is the simplest solution.

 

You can change the scaling axis. MickeyD2005’s stage 2 map is probably a better starting point. If you’re EWG the boost control stuff will look extreamly different from what you should run.

 

Kind of an old turbo at this point. If you want that power level, there are ones out there with better areo now.

 

Hey, thanks for knocking everything out all at once. And here I was thinking I was asking too many questions. :lol:

 

I thought/assumed that was the case with the MAF, but don't have the experience with tuning to be positive.

If I run a true Valet mode that way, it will still make spring rate pressure, correct? I don't necessarily want to take away ALL the fun, just protect my investment / their lives.

 

I have started actually messing around with my tune for the first time because I am about a week away from doing my swap and don't care if I blow the stock unit up. Its lived over 200K, it's had a good run:) I want to at least be comfortable loading and editing ROMs before I need to make them work for real.

 

I was originally torn between FP HTZ Blue (have heard nothing but good things and all the dyno plots I found put the power band about where I wanted it) and the BCP X500 or GTX3076R. My tuner talked me in to the Blue for what my goals were. Forced Performance can't get the parts for the Blue right now and offered me a Green at the same price. It's been nearly 6 weeks since I ordered the Blue, and they originally told me 3-4 weeks. I'm running out of time to get this engine installed, so I accepted the Green.

 

I've heard good things about the HTZ wheels, but am having a hard time finding plots for the green. Tons out there for the blue though.

 

A buddy of mine is borderline obsessed with All-Trac Celicas (turbo, AWD, 5 speed, LSDs. AKA GT-Four AKA AWD TURBO Celica). But, if I bring up Subarus, or my 2J, or the S30 chassis pipe dream of mine, he loses interest. The rest of my friends like cars but don't know where to put the blinker fluid

John Hancock

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Best best is just a switch inline with your EBCS then. Open the circuit and the car will be stuck at wastegate boost. Only ROM change needed is the the EBCS circuit open CEL.

 

That actually sounds perfect. Thank you! I can hide the switch pretty much anywhere.

John Hancock

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