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You guys seen this one micron filter yet. Subaru had a hand in its development

I have been using them for years.


TRASKO Questions & Answers


1. Trasko in Brief: The Trasko Refining Unit came about when the Govt. officials of the Tokyo metropolis started exploring the possibilities of improving the maintenance of their vehicles for increasing their longevity and reducing environmental impacts. In 1985 the Trasko-Bee Corporation in a joint venture with the Subaru Motor Corporation in Japan introduced this refining unit and won an award from the Mayor of Tokyo. The manufacturing premises were expanded to establish The Trasko-Korea Co. Ltd. August 1998, LOFMR introduces the Trasko Ultra-Fine Unit for the first time and makes it available both for fleet and individual use.


2. How is the Trasko Oil Filter different from any other systems?


The Trasko unit consists of a reusable canister with built-in 36 cooling fins. Trasko traps particles by lateral dispersion. The special filter element composed of kiln-dried paper has a fine porosity that traps fine particles from flowing oil while dispersing through its permeable layers. The special pressure relief valve-nut actuates when there is a pressure build-up or a surge. The valve then redirects or bypasses the oil to circulate through the 8-10 micron mesh (The critical pressure for setting itself into a bypass mode is between 8-16 psi at the relief valve and output pressure 85-90 psi from a typical vehicle's oil pump). Thus regulating a constant pressure differential in the range of an Input/Output of 1.00 : 0.89 (i.e if the input pressure was 80 psi the output pressure from the Trasko is 71.20 psi, this slight pressure drop is actually needed so that a small flow of oil is directed through the paper filter media). When flow is least restrictive the absolute particle rating efficiency is less than a micron. Upon relief actuation the secondary efficiency is still between 8-10 microns. An efficiency rating still higher than any stock type full-flow filters. The Trasko is a hybrid filter, conditionally set as full-flow oil system for any engine and changes itself into the bypass mode when it experiences a pressure above its critical range. Regular shunt market filters are designed full flow only and if they do have a bypass valve then their bypass is without a guard and the oil flows without any filtration. The Trasko can be used also as a bypass unit, if you prefer to install it along with a regular filter on a dual remote mount. The Trasko is a highly recommended product for diesel applications as well.. See some Spot Tests.

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But which model should one get for an '05 Legacy GT? After finding different FRAM models for the Leg, I ended up with the Trasko TMR-10SS, but I'm not sure if that's correct. Could someone also tell me which engine model we have? Searching the forums, I've gotten EJ25 and EJ255.
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Browse the Oil Filter forum in www.bobistheoilguy.com and you'll see that it is not living up to the hype.

Could you link to some choice posts that talk about the shortcomings of the Trasko oil filter? I tried searching for "Trasko" in their forums but came up with several threads, none of which seem to say that. I say seem because many of them were too technical for me to understand. Quoting Used-Oil Analysis, etc.

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I am always wanting to know the truth. I looked also on the oilguy site and could not find any thing negative. I did find this though.



http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/icons/icon1.gif posted document.write(timestamp(new Date(2005,3,16,15,4,0), dfrm, tfrm, 0, 0, 0, 0)); April 16, 2005 01:04 AMApril 16, 2005 03:04 PM http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/profile_ubb6.gif http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/priv_message.gif http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/edit_ubb6.gif I have run the Trasko with M1 5-30 foe 14 mo and 5700 miles. This includes much short term driving

and 1200 miles trips on the interstate. This produced condensation in prior reports as I live in St Louis. Before I would change at 6 mo with up to

10k miles. It appears the filter has gotten rid

of the moisture and the ring, bearing wear has gone to 0. Around town the engine pulls 1500 to 2000 rpm steady state while on the highway 2500 to 3500 rpm. I dont push the engine above 3500 to often. I spoke to the guy at Trasko about his filter elements and he indicated they are treated with a chemical to help

absorb moiture and neutralize acids. It appears

that function has worked very well. He also sent

a bit more specs about the filter.

10 microns is close to 100% thru 10 gpm

5 microns about 97% thru 4 gpm then about

88 % at 10 gpm

3 microns about 96% at 4 gpm then curves down to

about 80% at 10 gpm

I dont know that 3 microns is the max on the small end or just the limit of their testing. Anyway

I am very happy with the results and I believe

I will stick with the original filter elemment. It will be interesting to see how the filter is

impacted by running TP. Thanks for a great idea.

PS I will try to get another sample run to see more imformation solids and tbn

On my Honda engine with the Trasko and M1 5-30

these are the results after 14 mo and 5700 miles.

This is a major improvment with more time and mileage.

I am almost afraid to change anything. I feel the cost of the Trasko on my engine is already justified by the results.I believe this removes the weak link of running syn for long periods with full flow filters. My old method was to change oil and filter every 6 mo. Not sure what the new method will be. The oe filter was from Japan and it cost 12 bucks.

AL 2

CR 0

CU 2

FE 13

PB 0

NI 0

SI 4

SN 0


ink that most of the people who are using the

Trasko have similar reasons for getting one. I may

miss some if so feel free to correct me. These were my goals:


1 Filter to a smaller micron particle than full flow

2 Not have to worry about build quality of full flow

3 Pull condensation from the oil

4 Reduce overall maintenance time

5 Less cost for filter elements compared to oe

6 Ease of instalation

7 I like to find new ideas that work for me

My Honda has a very clean engine compartment, but

no empty space. I thought of using a full size

bp filter, but even if I got by the hoses which I consider a weak point, I still had to find a spot

to mount the filter. The only open spot was on top of the hood. Not sure that it would have been a

good hood ornament, but it would have made it very

easy to change filters. I actually like the idea

of easy filter changes as I have back problems.

The Trasko is a very efective smaller element bp

filter that under normal filter usage are working out to around 10k miles. I checked my filter at 5k, which is recomended change at 5k on the first oci. It was fine, I thought well this first filter looks like it might go the full 10k no problem. Maybe I just have a very clean engine. When you have an engine that has crud and you use Auto-rx

the stuff is going to come out.

All of my goals have been, I suspect with the

new M1 EP I might do better than 10k but I will

check the filter and lab the oil just to be sure.

Half of my wear metals are at 0 at 14 mo, with more than half of my driving trips <10 miles. Again maybe a very clean engine. Now some of my

family and friends are interested in a bp filter,

but I will let them decide which type best meets

there needs or if they even need one.

PS It was my impression that most of the people

that had the Trasko were very happy. My only

connection to Trasko is that I like there filter.

If anyone has somthing better that meets "My Needs" I would have bought it long ago.


Yes I have used a Trasko here in Australia almost continuously since 1985. Yes, about 20 years, and have covered about 650,000 km using them in 5 different vehicles. I have had no problems with using them and consider them well worth the money.

I have found that they DO quieten the engine noises a bit, they DO make your vehicle run smoother and they DO seem to make the throttle a little more responsive. They seem to work particularly well with synthetics or para-synthetics and keep your oil relatively clean.


When changing the oil after 10,00 km it is still dark brown in colour but is not loaded with dirt and soot etc.

However, from personal experience I have found that it is still necessary to change the oil at recommended distances, though synthetics can go about 50% longer. The filter tissues will eventually clog if not changed regularly because they are more efficient, and the oil becomes contaminated and thickened by colloids (colloids are too small to be filtered by any engine filter). Eventually the detergent package is exhausted and oil oxidisation starts to occur too. The end result of this is a tar-like sludge.


A mechanic friend fixed an engine in a vehicle where the owner never changed the oil, just the filter, and it took three seperate 24hr soaks in the bath to get the block free of the tar coating and clean enough to work on. Consider yourself warned about not changing your oil!


I am currently working on a lengthy testimonial of my experiences with this filter for Trasko-USA and hopefully will be finished soon and posted.

Hope this helps.

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By the way I remember back in 1975 when I started using synthetic oils every said "It will ruin you engine " yeah the earth is flat. any way more from the oil sampling


guys. I am not saying I know every thing but I do have an open mind. By the way the amsoil filters and oil are top notch and backed by more experience than anyone.


If I had any question about the filter or the oil

I was running I would be checking the labs to see what they say. If you have a tight clean engine

what should you see? I ran a lab before the Trasko

filter and after. I just changed oil and filter

and there was a small amount of grit on the screen, the filter element darker than the oil. This is on a car with 150k and dino till 120k. The oil does not have to look


perfect to get really outstanding wear #s as verified by the lab # that I ran. On my engine running M1 5-30 EP 10k looks very much like it will work fine. Ralph if I


am running syn with these lab #s do you really think I need to drop the filter an add a quart every 1000 miles. The oil still shows no rings on a

business card and looks and smells okay.


mobil1 10-30 94 acura legend 4600 miles


Just changed the T.P. in the Trasco after 26,000 miles of transmission service.The top of the T.P. was saturated with tiny black specs and the bottom was clean.The


Trans fluid looks real clean also.Looks like the the filter is doing its job.Iv`e seen suggestions of 50,000 T.P. change outs but have no will power. For those using


over the counter filter media the gaskets are reusable.Iv`e used the same O Rings 3 times on my engine oil filter with no problems.



I think the amsoil unit is a fine piece from my reading. But...the bypass filters for it are so expensive. If i had a fleet of vehicles and only wanted to open the hood to


change the oil every 25,000 miles sure that would be great, but I plan on changing the oil by 10,000 miles anyway which is what is suggested by trasko. The tracko


was only about $70 and from posts delivers some great OA's. best of all it is a simple screw on. I can't argue with your argument on the increased capasity with the


amsoil..but my rig already has 7.5 Qt from the factory. if the amsoil bypass filters were like $12 each I would definatly use the amsoil filter...but i can't justify the


expense. I got my trasko in the mail the other day and and I am impressed with the machining and craftsmanship. I had to play with the filter for a while to see how


the bypass mechanism works; its easier to see than to explain..but it is pretty cool. I am waiting for my oa kit to arrive in the mail so i can send in a analysis of my oil


before i install the trasko-i am at about 4,500 miles on my rig with the average report for my vehicle being 4,700 miles. I will keep all posted on my oa's after


instalation for compare. i have been using M1 synthetic and will continue to due so.

By the way...i dont see why you need to use the fancy trako tp for the filter..couldn't you trim a nl roll and make it work?...is anyone using nl tp in the trako and


getting good OA's? oil analysis


Just got my Blackstone Lab results back and the Trasco must be working O.K. Go to the U.O.A gas engine section to see my report. My insolubles were only a .2


after 10,733 miles which made me happy with the filter.Normal value should have been <0.6 and my TBN was 5.0 with 1.5 quarts total makeup oil. Oil was Mobil 1


Those are pretty nice results! I'd expect the TBN and insolubles to look good, but I'm particularly pleased to see the Iron & lead numbers are low.


Copper is high, but it seems that this has something to do with your engine. It appears that it isn't broken in yet. I'm not a big fan of the K&N air filter, but it doesn't


seem to affect your silicon levels too badly.


How many miles were on the engine when you took this UOA?


Very nice report...Wasn't surprise of low numbers...Trasko filter's well...glad I made that purchase...Think it keeps the synthetic oil to perform on a better level...


Thanks 4.8 Silverado

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My final comment and result from the guy who do oil analysis which I used to do but stopped doing years ago. If you are not comfortable with newer technologies stick with what your doing.


castor is also on the right track using amsoils latest stuff


he said


Look at the Amsoil Ea oil filters as well.....25K change intervals.




Amsoil Ea nanofibe air filters...cool stuff.




The 5/30 oil I'm running.




these guys have been around forever and are the best (Amsoil)


Trasco is actually using amsoils by pass tech but they have miniturized it for today small cars. You still got to change oil but I just extended it so I am not under my cars so much.


here is the final post


Here`s the results from Blackstone Labs. Would like to hear any comments good or bad on it,thanks . Note : bypass filter was a screw on type that takes the place of the full flow one,did not install it untill there was allready 2k on the oil. Did not change the T.P. element for the duration of the test. 1.5 quarts of makeup oil was added. K&N airfilter was installed for this test.

Aluminum 3 Chromium 1 Iron 14 Copper 96 Lead 7 Tin 4 Molybdenum 71

Nickel 0 Maganese 1 Silver 0 Titanium 0 Potassium 1 Boron 130

Silicon 17 Sodium 3 Calcium 2779 Magnesium 15 Phosphorus 968

Zinc 1254 Barium 0 SUS Viscosity @ 210 = 93.4 Flashpoint = 435

Fuel <0.5 Antifreeze 0 Water 0 Insolubles .2 TBN = 5.0


this is clean oil


Great to see an M1 15w-50 UOA over 10K! Other than copper being somewhat high, which is expected on the GM engines, the only question I have is...why did you take out this oil so soon?


These are great results. TBN is strong and wear metals are below avg. Not sure what the visc. is bc it's in SUS


This post is the owner telling what kind of driving he did


My last trip on this oil consisted of climbing 11 thousand foot passes and running my truck over 5200 rpm`s while passing slower vehicles so I got scared when I got back from vacation and changed it.


I would get rid of the K&N air filter and see if that silicon can be improved upon. (silicon is dirt)


Don't forget Patman the VOA of this stuff starts at 8 ppm so only 9ppm over virgin oil in 10,000 miles seems great to me. Maybe thicker is better!Also would be nice to know the brand of bypass filter you are using and cost etc. Looks like the cats meow to me.


trasco Thanks for all the good replys. The Trasco cost is around 70 dollars and the filter media is 10 dollars. The change out interval is at 10 k for the media. I removed the K&N and went back to the stock AC/Delco paper filter.Looking forward to lowering my Silicon levels.




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