DanteXanthe Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 My 02 Legacy L wagon need some help. I've unfortunately run into a lot of rusted bolts and broken crap from previous owner's neglect. My biggest concern at this point is that the front axles need replaced badly but the pinch knuckle bolt is seized and rounded. Is there any other way to get the axle out? Also, what would I need to STi hub swap? I'm sort of looking to WRX swap at some point so I was also wondering if I could just buy a WRX wagon around the same year and strip it for all the parts I'd need. Thanks in advance for any help provided! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coreyh29645 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 as i've found out a wrx swap is a lot of work. bu yes that would be the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 there is another way to get the axles out actually i did it a couple times with my old mounts and never had an issue, i probably wouldn't try it with group n's though. use your scissor jack for changing a tire, sandwich it in your tranny tunnel between the tranny. and it usually just takes your finger strength or maybe a small screw driver and push the tranny over to get the inside off first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 its in steps 18-22 or so in this link http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanteXanthe Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 So I can do that without removing the transmission crossmember? And it won't hurt anything else will it? Also, thanks a bunch for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Which bolt are you referring too? The axle nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanteXanthe Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 The bolt on the knuckle that holds the ball joint into the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 (edited) Oh yeah those always suck. Remove ball joint from the control arm and take the knuckle out. Use a marker to mark the camber bolt(top one) on the strut and unbolt it from the knuckle. while the knuckle is out use a torch on the knuckle (watch the rubber) and use punch and hammer out the bolt. then buy a longer bolt and put a nut on the end. Homedepot sells grade 8s get one about 60mm long. Slather said new bolt with lots of anti seize. you'll probably need a impact gun to get it through the knuckle. It's what I had to do to mine on one side. Doing this will mess up the threads in the knuckle but you can still tighten it will the nut. I'd have a tap handy too to re-thread the new bolt end for the nut after you ram it through the knuckle. Edited October 15, 2017 by RumbleRumble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanteXanthe Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 I'll have to keep that in mind. I intend to replace everything I can with Whiteline stuff soon so I'll do that then. I need to get some fire so I can get the cotter pin out from the castle nut. My immediate thought was to just pop the ball joint from the control arm. Bloody rust. I love my car but so much needs replaced because of rot. A little off topic, I was debating STi swapping the hubs for better brakes but I'm not sure where to start with that or if it's even possible. And thank you so much for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 So I can do that without removing the transmission crossmember? And it won't hurt anything else will it? Also, thanks a bunch for the info. removing would be easier or you could just undo the bolts from the unibody and and let it hang off the tranny. it never hurt anything for me with stock oem mounts it only took a bit of finger strength to move it over maybe a bit more, look into group n motor and tranny mounts if you have those i wouldn't consider this technique since they are too stiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanteXanthe Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 I'll give it a shot. Hopefully the bolts aren't as crusty as some of the others. The engine came out fine though so there's hope. Thanks again. Now I'm going to go give it a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanteXanthe Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 After some frustration, I think it's gonna have to wait a little longer. I need to drop the exhaust to get to the right side of the trans and I'll need a new gasket for that. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanteXanthe Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 A little update in case anyone cares. I ended up unbolting the strut and yanked the lower control arm around a bit to get the axles out. Thanks everyone for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunFunZS Posted June 25, 2019 Share Posted June 25, 2019 I care. Old threads = shared knowledge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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