GunFunZS

I have the cali H4, and get this code intermittently Sounds like I need a downstream O2 sensor and it needs to be the cali model. Aprox $25 dollars and brand isn't critical. If that doesn't fix it, then go to the next thing. Also, need to buy a code reader so I can clear this stupid code and not have to pull a battery terminal on trips. Someone needs to punish the engineer who decided that CEL= no cruise control for you. What a jerk. Unclear whether cat is original or what. I'm not the first owner, and stuff may have been replaced. Any easy visual way to know whether I have OEM cat while I am swappign out the 02 sensor? Is that right, or am I making some 'tarded oversight?

Thanks. I will look at this and try to follow up. How much pressure should I see under load, etc?

My car is a 2004 Legacy 35th anniv. H4, auto. Prior owner was my brother. He tried to recharge AC with one of those cans, and probably messed something up. I would love to redo the AC on a budget and have borrowed a dual gauge setup. As I understand things, you need to know the ambient temp, a high pressure, low pressure and measure the differential. What I want to know is if there is a guide somewhere for full proceedure, and what those numbers should be... If my brother blew a seal, then it's empty. I could replace all the o-rings, and purge out any oil, take it to a shop and have them do a purge and recharge. If necessary, I could replace the compressor too, first. I know that would probably cut about $400 off the bill for doing a simple task. But before I do stuff like that, I want to see what is going on. i.e. does the compressor seem to work? Is there any refrigerant in the system?, etc. That is what I am asking for guidance about. Thanks.

I though you meant some aftermarket bumper. Perhaps you are referring to the body style update? If so, I am catching up on the terminology. Here are some pics of what I gots: Album link: https://imgur.com/a/j3p4Ym9 - includes pics of the fog lamp assy that I cut up and cleaned out. O'l Cloudy: New frankensteiny https://imgur.com/a/fk1F15G

Tagging your thread for learning. I wish I could give useful input. I would love to swap mine to manual if that is the kind of thing that can be done in a weekend.

Crap. That's what I have, and can't find any meaningful info about it. Is there a repository somewhere for info about what is different/ the same with EJ259 and other versions? ps apologies for the threadjack. It seems more polite to keep relevant info in an old thread rather than scattered through redundant threads.

That's a bit overkill, but thanks for the reply. I am not going to replace the front skin and repaint the car just to make my fog lamps a little better.

Thanks for the response. I have used similar bulbs in my prior car, and liked them. They do die more freqently, and I always kept a spare in my glove box. Rock auto seems to have everything substantially cheaper across the board. I picked up Hella bulbs for my fog lamps prior to posting this. I can't compare to prior, but they are supposed to be slightly up rated. I think I got Euro certified ones, but not DOT. I have really been happy with Hella bulbs in my motorcycle as compared to the normal US brands. I do a fair amount of driving over mountain passes at night, and a bit more light in the right color tones buys valuable seconds of reaction time as deer attempt suicide by car. I know better than to go for HID, as those put out a lot of light, but also make your eyes less sensitive. Gives you a false sense of vision/ security, while blinding oncoming traffic. No thanks. Great for a spotlight, bad for headlights. I have cut my messed up lamp apart and cleaned up the glass, but not glued it back together yet. At this point, I think they are place holders for the day someone gives me specific good suggestions for alternatives. The one I have is nice, but not a game changer.

I have a standard legacy sedan, which somes with fog lamps. One of those is busted up and had been badly repaired, so that it filled with nasty water for a long time. When I opened it up to change the bulb, I got a dump of said nasty water on my face. It looks like perhaps fog lamps came from another car which was wrecked. The tab which holds the top of the lamp to the fascia, and one of the screw holes were broken free. They had tried to caulk the top, but it was completely full of rust water, and the glass is now dingy with rust schmutz. So looking around, it seems that the single factory driver side fog lamp is a couple hundred bucks. I will keep an eye on my local wrecking yard for them, but I am open to other suggestions, including just swapping in something aftermarket. If I were to go aftermarket and not spend much, what is the best tech and what should I look for? Or perhaps, even a model which is more or less direct fit... I want high output without blowing fuses or melting the plastic from heat. Sealed long life is good too. I am not so worried about DOT certification, but I don't need to be completely obnoxious to oncoming traffic. As for the headlights, I would like more range. I notice that I can find higher wattage bulbs which should fit. How high can I go without risking the wiring/ fuses, or heat problems in the headlights?

Update: I also did the bearing, and the cabin air filter. And the spark plugs, which weren't as bad to get at as the guides made them sound. I have bulbs for the fog lamps on the way. Rock auto is kinda amazing. I really like this car. It is smooth yet planted. A bit pushy in corners. Not just understeer, but you can feel the outside wheel resisting due to the AWD system. I think it's open diffs, but the driveline mass still makes a difference. It's heavier than I am used to, but has enough engine to feel fun, and not much body roll. The breaks are the best I have felt on a 'basic car'. Very smooth, linear, and firm. I can use them with confidence knowing I have a lot more power in reserve. I really wish that I had a 6 speed manual, and that the car was a hatchback of the same length and size. That would just about be the perfect car for me. Weekend trip prior to changing spark plugs showed I was getting 27.8mpg over mountain passes and freeway, which is about what I expected. Nothing to write home about, but also not showing any problems. I have a feeling my next car will be subaru too. Though I really do like a lot of things about the manual trans matrix I got for my wife. I really do miss the era of light and nimble hatches.

Update. Car is ~ done for now. Bearings swapped. Suspension swapped. Breaks swapped. Breakes bled. Wow did they improve with bleeding. This is starting to be a very nice car. Still need to do the AC and the defouler (s) When I looked at the exhausts, it looked like there was an 02 sensor near each head, so I guess I would need defoulers for each side? I cleared the code and used it for almost 2 months before the code came back, so it must be close to right.

Nice build. Very classy.

I care. Old threads = shared knowledge

Well, so far I have swapped the rear brakes and struts which is a huge improvement. I am wrestling the knuckle out of the front to press out the bearings. Central WA can get pretty hot. I think it is about 90*f in my driveway, and I am getting pretty hot and slow witted. Ugh. Thanks for the help so far.

Cool. I had picked NGK iridium, because honestly it looks like accessing the plugs on this car will be a nuisance. I used to buy bosch, but having had the ground prong fall off in one of my cars, and seeing it happen in a friend's car does not inspire confidence in the product. I use NGK on my bike and don't see any wear that would concern me. I had selected the bi-metal power stop pads, but will switch. I delayed my order until my wife gets back for lunch today, so your advice came in time. Thanks

Hey, I am going to be ordering a big batch of parts tonight. Any recommendations about spark plugs? Ditto for brake pad type. I am going to be towards the economy end, but would take stopping power over long pad life. Thanks.

Yeah, sounds like a fun, but likely thrashed car. Anything less than a thousand in running condition is a steal. If you list known issues, like needs brakes, tires, clutch, there's a lot of instant gasket sticking out everywhere... That might change the equation. I'd take it and just put a moderate tune in it and enjoy.

Ouch. I once had a bearing seize on me while on the freeway. You are lucky it gave up the ghost while parked.

Thank you. That thread link will be a great help to me.

Reasonable, but I will just do the one hub right now. I am cash poor and don't have a lot of extra time. For now, it will be minimal stuff to be responsible. Then A/C hopefully before summer gets bad, and maybe adding a line in & bluetooth to the factory 6CD changer if that is possible. For other cars of this era, there is usually a factory optional remote changer, whose plug can be used to add a line in capability.

And your surmise was correct. It was code 0420. Clearing it brought back cruise control. So I guess I need to pick out a defouler kit. Is there a particular one known to fit well in the exhaust tunnel of these, or is it a wing it and hope the universal kit you got works type of deal?

Just added those to my ebay cart.

My understanding of bearings is they either meet the ANSI spec or they don't. Does brand really matter given that they are claiming the OEM Ansi spec? Thanks for your answers. My wife and I are budgeting out the parts. I think I will re-use the hubs rather than order new ones. It doesn't look like that big a deal to cut the old races off and press on new ones.

Thanks for the reply. I have most of the parts already in the cart on Rock Auto pending poking around and a pay check. So far, a lot less than I expected. Keeping the numbering the same, replying to your reply: 1) I've been watching youtube vids this afternoon. It looks like about what I expect. So far the plan is to order the bits at rock auto, and get a harbor freight 20 ton shop press and bearing pusher set. I have some rather large sockets, but probably not enough to ensure I wouldn't scarf up the bearings. I can freeze some bits and stick others in a toaster oven to ease the assembly too. Do I need any special rating of grease to pack the bearings? I have put hub, bearing, seals, and a snap ring in the cart for this. Is anything missing from the list? 3) I have borrowed a code reader, and will pull the code. What do you mean by "space the rear oxygen sensor"? Does it need shimmed or something? 4)Yes. sprayed degreaser and rinsed out the engine bay carefully a bit ago, so that any leaks or crud sources will be easier to trace. I find that starting from cleanish makes new oil or fluids stand out. I didn't see any obvious cracks, rotten hoses, unplugged hoses or other "well there's your problem" items. 6) Oh good. Those are the struts I had picked. Normally I would tend towards tokico sporty struts/springs, but I think I want to keep this car feeling more OEM for my wife's comfort. I hadn't planned on getting the "hats" but if you think I will need them, that's good to know. No signs of rust so far. This car lived in Oregon, not road salt country. I assume that I will have to unbuckle the back dash to get at the top of the struts, and I am not looking forward to that. I always seem to flay my hands when doing chores like that.Then again, how will my wife be sure I am a man if I have skin on my hands all the time? Office work makes me too soft.

My bad. Didn't see the reply