thejazzcat Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Hey all, I'm about to install a Crawford AOS on my car. I've been reading the few threads I could find (this one seems to be the most useful), and I've got some questions about the diagram in post #9. It numbers all the different hoses and lists where they go, but I'm still uncertain as to what locations are being referred to. I THINK I understand what's going on in the picture, but I wanted to confirm my understanding. Note that I'm still learning the layout of these engines, so bear with me as I try to figure this out BEFORE I tear in to such a project. So, questions: - In the instructions, it says that line labeled #1 goes to the inlet hose recirc vent. Which of the ports on the inlet is the recirc vent? Is it the port referenced in the description of #3 (the one that hooks to the plastic crossover tubing going to the head breathers?) - the line labeled #3 says that it hooks up to the vent on the plastic tubing that runs between the head breathers... I thought these kits were designed to replace the plastic tubing and just run the recirc hose to each of the head breathers via a T-fitting? Is one method preferable to the other? - how difficult is it to get to the recirc port on the turbo inlet without having to move the intake manifold? I installed an AVO turbo inlet with a friend recently but we hit a snag and had to rush to finish up the work, so I didn't get to commit to memory exactly how everything looked under the manifold when we were putting it all back together. I am assuming that the entire install can be done without removing anything besides the intercooler, but just in case I wanted to ask people their personal experiences on that. Thanks for the info everyone, I am looking forward to installing the Crawford when it arrives in a couple days -thejazzcat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejazzcat Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 Well, didn't get a reply here, but once I got the intercooler and plastic head breather off, everything makes perfect sense now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs_legacy Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Glad it worked out well for you! I am looking to take advantage of their current group buy very soon, approximately how long did it take you to install and how difficult was it? I am looking to do it as preventative maintenance on my 07 Spec B, thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejazzcat Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 Well, moderately well anyway. The install took a lot longer than I expected it to, due to conflicting instructions between the checklist I received with the AOS and the instructions in the install guide PDF. For the record, the checklist photo is WAY wrong in several places. Some notes: * The checklist photo says to run the front coolant line (straight one near the bottom with nibs) to the turbo, and the back coolant line (angled one on the back side with nibs) to the coolant overflow tank. This is NOT correct - the PDF does list the correct configuration, which is exactly opposite of that (front line to overflow and back angled line to the turbo). You will have kinks in the hose if you try to install based on the included checklist photo. * The checklist says to put heat shielding on the line going to the overflow coolant port. It's the turbo coolant line that needs the heat shielding, as it runs directly over the turbo heat shield. For this one, I abandoned any hope of detailed instructions for the heat shield and just put it in the logical places - any hose that runs over top of the turbo and under the intercooler (one of the lines actually touches part of the cool side of the turbo and runs reealllly close to the heat shield. Good thing the sleeves are typically rated for 500 degrees direct contact!) * DO NOT REMOVE THE CRANKCASE PORT/DIAMOND PLATE GOING BACK IN TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. The instructions show this because there is a bolt plug that goes in the diamond shaped plate in place of the hose nub, and effectively seals that hole since it is no longer needed. However, it's just a plain pain-in-the-arse to get at it, especially with the hard BOV line running right in front of the lower bolt. What I recommend instead is getting a rubber evap system plug that goes over the hose nub and and secure it with zip ties. Takes 1/10th of the time and still seals off that port. The cost is like 5 bucks for a 3 pack at your local auto parts store. * (if you can help it) DO NOT REMOVE THE SHORT HOSE THAT RUNS IN TO THE TURBO INLET PCV!!! It's rough to get down in there and feed the top-most hose to the turbo inlet without loosening your manifold (mine was a bit easier as I have an AVO and the pcv port on the inlet is just barely accessible from the front of the intake). If you can help it, leave the short hose attached to the inlet port, and buy a simple male/male adapter for 5/8" hose. Attach that to where the plastic breather crossover used to go, and then your AOS line is easily accessible once the intercooler is removed. I also trimmed that hose down the equivalent amount to help with routing a bit. This trick is also really useful if you're one of those people that prefers to pull their AOS off in the winter (only necessary if your coolant lines are freezing, and that's really tough to do even here in CO winter, if you have a proper antifreeze mix and a properly sealing IC scoop). * Make sure you route the ECU harness (previously where the filter can now is) before you get too far in to the install. It needs to go underneath the can off to the side of the engine bay to avoid heat exposure to the turbo. I actually called and left a message with Crawford on this one before I finally figured it out :-P * RESET YOUR ECU. I had issues with idle dipping severely w/AC running after I was done with the install, and a ECU reset(short the positive and negative battery cables to drain the capacitors or Cobb AP) solved the problem. My theory is that the rerouting of the PCV breathers caused subtle changes to the airflow that the computer did not like. I also have jdm TGV deletes, so it might have been a combination of the two mods that made it idle so rough. Reset, and let the car idle with the AC on about halfway fan speed for 10 minutes or so, and problem solved. Patience is key with this one - think about your routing carefully and you'll have a nice clean setup that fits under the engine cover (albeit just barely, even with my big-ass AVO inlet requiring spacers on the front-left engine cover bracket). If you've done a good job, the head breather/can T, can/overflow coolant line, and the passenger side head breather line should all route next to each other through the one tiny opening on the side of the engine cover. I reused the space where the stock plastic breather piece was previously mounted to run the head breather T line to each side of the engine. As a side note - after way too much research, it seems that the Crawford is harder to properly route compared to the other type of design in use (Grimmspeed's oil cap AOS). If you are a stocker or don't ever track, the Grimmspeed might save you the hassle - but the Crawford does a way better job from what I've read if you are ever throwing some heavy lateral G's on a regular basis. I hope this helped! I wish I would have taken more pictures, but I hadn't intended on doing a tutorial at the time so I was lazy Some of this may make more sense once you get the IC off, like it did for me. Happy installing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejazzcat Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 It's also worth noting that the install took me so long because I didn't have the proper tools, and did the job in my condo parking lot... Had to run to the auto parts store several times too for the intake port plug for the crankcase, and for the straight fitting to hook in to the stock turbo inlet PCV hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs_legacy Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 This is immensely helpful! Thank you! With the help of my dad and combining our tools, I now have no doubt we could get this done. One more question, what version did you end up getting? I have a 2007 LGT and am unsure whether to get the V2 or the V3. I would really like the V3 as it is smog friendly(CA Emissions:() but it states its compatible with EJ motors 2008+. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejazzcat Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 I didn't realize the V3 was available for our cars? Crawford seems to be good at iteratively improving their design, so if there is a V3 that is compatible, I'd lean towards getting that, unless research shows that people have been having problems with it. If smog is the only difference, it's entirely up to you which one you get. Here in CO we don't use CARB rules as for tools, you'll need a 10 and 12 mm socket/ratchet AND the same in wrench form. Like 90 percent of the bolts on these cars are one of those two sizes. Long needle-nose pliers and forceps also come in handy for tightening zip ties, removing compression clamps, and releasing the crappy locking clamps that Subaru uses in some places. Have you or your dad ever specifically worked on a Subaru before? If not I highly suggest learning some of the tips and tricks scattered throughout the forums - they are not easy cars to work on because many of the vacuum hoses are tucked under the intake manifold, and the flat design. Not trying to be insulting here in case you're already learned in the ways of Subaru - I just found that even as a car enthusiast, I had to learn a fair amount about the EJ platform specifically before I felt comfortable enough to work on one (and post helpful info on LGT.com ). Even still, there's things that i have to look up every time I turn a wrench on my 05. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs_legacy Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Well when I go onto crawford's website when I choose our cars it brings up the V3 as well as the V2, I'll ask them about it. Smog is a big plus cause then I won't have to worry about it. I used to ahve an NA legacy that my dad and I upgraded some of the suspension on and I got very familiar with the chassis. This is my first turbo model car/subaru I have owned and I love it! She did need some TLC before I got to modding her but man what a car. Before hand I did help a few friends with subarus install mods, such as, exhaust, turbo and suspension. On this car I have installed, with the help of my dad, and uppipe, downpipe and a perrin intercooler, with and EBCS and protune. As a young college student/car enthusiast every install of a mod I am learning something new and that's what makes it so addicting. Researching a part/mod and finding out what effect it will have on the car, what other people have experienced and then putting it to the test. I am usually not one to back down from working on my own car unless it is, internal/engine related, requires the right tools, and is too difficult/PITA. I am up for a bit of a challenge when it comes to installing/fixing my own car, especially in this instance the part can only help my car in the long run. I am a little nervous about working with vacuum lines, in case I don't connect them correctly. Fortunately, I am only 300 miles from crawford performance themselves where they can do the free install, if I decide to not do it myself. I appreciate all the feedback and guidance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I have a v3 and it does NOT fit on the legacy gt platfotm. It sits too high and the canister hits the hood (2-3") The v2 seems like the only viable option, i almost want to cut the bracket off the v3 and mount it by the strut tower.... v2 is single chamber, v3 is dual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 For my 5th Gen, i'm mounting it by the intercooler. Don't know if that would help the hitting of the hood issue on your cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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