Replacing Faulty ABS pump

[Aussie Darryl]

Hi Guys I have a 2010 Subaru Liberty GT (called a Legacy in the USA) which was diagnosed with code 52. I was informed the ABS pump was faulty. I purchased a second hand ABS pump and ECU which had exactly the same part number and had it installed in the car. The auto electrician who installed said he could not reprogram the ECU and suggested I take it to Subaru. I took car to Subaru dealer who said the ABS/ECU was from a single overhead cam Liberty and it could not pair with the cars computer. Does anyone know exactly what has to be done to install a second hand ABS into my Liberty GT. Do they have to be recoded and how is it done? A new ABS pump costs over $7,000 in Australia. Any assistance would be appreciated.

[GTEASER]

At least with the USDM cars I know that the ABS pump used depends on the VDC and whether or not car has an auto or manual transmission. Some pumps need the signal from the auto trans and electronic center diff, while others don't like on our GT which has a manual transmission and mechanical full time 50/50 torque distributing center diff.

 

My guess is that you will need a replacement ABS pump from a GT with the same transmission as yours.

[Aussie Darryl]

Hello Gteaser and thank you for your response. You are absolutely right. I will need an ABS pump from a vehicle with the same VIN. At this stage I have tracked it down in Queensland and it should be delivered next week. I hope it works. Subaru has also confirmed that ABS pumps cannot be recoded and whist I hear what they say, I don't believe that. They only want to sell new parts. ATE the manufacturer of the ABS controller/pump have advised they do not do any repairs and I can only buy the part from Subaru. As mentioned, Subaru want over $7,000. What a scam all round. Will let everyone know if second hand pump works next week. Regards

[3liter914-6]

Hello Gteaser and thank you for your response. You are absolutely right. I will need an ABS pump from a vehicle with the same VIN. At this stage I have tracked it down in Queensland and it should be delivered next week. I hope it works. Subaru has also confirmed that ABS pumps cannot be recoded and whist I hear what they say, I don't believe that. They only want to sell new parts. ATE the manufacturer of the ABS controller/pump have advised they do not do any repairs and I can only buy the part from Subaru. As mentioned, Subaru want over $7,000. What a scam all round. Will let everyone know if second hand pump works next week. Regards

 

Necrobump.

 

Assuming this didn't work? Doing some research for my brother who the dealer is telling him his 2012 needs a new ABS unit and only virgin ABS pumps can be coded to the vehicle. The good news is they're now only $1800 USD, but still a kick in the nuts. Do you or anyone else have some input?

 

Thanks!

[Plastixx]

Necrobump.

 

Assuming this didn't work? Doing some research for my brother who the dealer is telling him his 2012 needs a new ABS unit and only virgin ABS pumps can be coded to the vehicle. The good news is they're now only $1800 USD, but still a kick in the nuts. Do you or anyone else have some input?

 

Thanks!

 

The VDC control module and the H/U (hydraulic unit, AKA pump) are two different parts of the same system. He needs to determine what the actual problem is. It's uncommon for Subaru hydraulic units to fail, but if it is actually bad then all he needs to do is swap it with a working one, either new or used.

 

Even if the problem is the VDC control module and not the pump, I'm not sure it even needs to be programmed. It probably just needs to come from a car with the exact same specs so that it already has the appropriate software loaded.

[3liter914-6]

Thanks. He's in Austin, and unfortunately not here where I could give it a once over and probably figure it out. The local dealer has been scratching their head on this and replaced a bunch of parts and eventually decided that the whole unit needed to be replaced.

 

On my advice he took it to an independent, but according to him there aren't any Subaru specialists in Austin (which seems weird) and the shop he took it to (recommended by some Suby owners) told him they could swap it out with a used one but he'd need to take it ot the dealer for cycling the ABS. Well they swapped it in there and then told him he'd have to take it to dealer for coding. Got it to the dealer and they told him it's coded to the exact car and can only be replaced with a new virgin unit. So now he's looking at $1800 to replace (parts and labor), or being on the hook some god awful high dealer diagnostic fee.

 

If a used one would work it'll still be cheaper, and he's capable of doing the swap himself, but he's getting near the point where he says eff it and just pays the extortive dealer price. Does anyone have a P/N for the electrical bits? The only part number I could find was for the VDC hydraulic unit (27596AJ01A) with MSRP of $620, I couldn't tell from the parts catalog if that included the electronics. If I wasn't in school I'd just buy a cracked SSM and fly down there and swap the damn thing for him.

[Plastixx]

You can only buy the "ABS module" as a whole assembly, even though the VDCCM and H/U are two independent parts that are bolted together. The $1800 that was quoted is for the cost of the module plus install and programming.

 

I can't find any info on a module needing to be "virgin" to have the software parameters changed by the dealer using SSM. I think they just wanted to sell a new unit or won't program a used unit for liability reasons. For a used unit to work without a trip to the dealer, I'm pretty sure it just needs to come from the exact same model/year/trim so that it has the correct software/programming. The writing on the black plastic housing should be identical (hope he kept the old one). Even then, you still might need access to an advanced diagnostic tool to actuate the valves and bleed, or do it the hard way by bleeding and then hard braking on a slippery surface (dirt/grass) to trigger the ABS and then bleed again. Rinse and repeat as needed.

 

The steering angle sensor calibration will also need reset. It can either be done with an advanced diagnostic tool or by these instructions...

 

1) Park the vehicle in a straight ahead position on a horizontal surface.

2) Confirm the steering wheel center position. (If the center position is not accurate, adjust wheel alignment.)

3) Drive the vehicle approx. 10 km (6 MPH) preferably on a straight road, then turn ignition switch OFF. Then drive the vehicle approx. 10 km (6MPH) again confirming that ABS and VDC warning lights do not go ON while vehicle is being driven. Also make sure there are no abnormalities of the VDC function or steering operation.

 

A $50 HyperTough HT200 from WalMart "should" be able to do both ABS bleeding, SAS calibration, and clear the ABS codes. I have one but haven't tried to use it on my car because I have a better tool.

[3liter914-6]

You can only buy the "ABS module" as a whole assembly, even though the VDCCM and H/U are two independent parts that are bolted together. The $1800 that was quoted is for the cost of the module plus install and programming.

 

Yeah, I should have said that I got that there was coding time included in the whole shebang. When he called me about the problem I confirmed that he has the original module, my LGT is an '05 and I'm about 1000 miles away so I don't have a part in hand to determine how easy it is to swap the electronic portion but that was on my list of things for him to try.

 

I've passed the rest of the info along, I really appreciate the input and hopefully it helps him get this sorted and save some money.