SnarlingFox Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Hello, sorry if this isn't formatted right as this is my first post here. But I am absolutely baffled by this issue I am having. I was coming up to a stop sign in my car and as I was coming up, the car just softly died, like it ran out of gas. I have checked for fuel, compression, and spark. For the compression test, I didn't get to hook a gauge up to the block and see exactly how much compression I had, but I did put my hand over the exhaust while my friend cranked it over and there is definitely a good amount of compression. For the spark, I pulled a coil out and threw a spare plug onto it and had my friend hold it near the body of the car to watch for any spark, nothing. It's throwing codes: -p0335 crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction -p0328 Knock sensor 1 circuit High input (bank 1) -p0345 Camshaft position Sensor A circuit (bank 2) -p0340 Camshaft position sensor A circuit (bank 1 or single sensor) -p0223 Throttle/ pedal position sensor/ switch B circuit high output -p0123 Throttle/ pedal position sensor A circuit high output I've checked all of the engine grounds and talked to a few mechanics, all of which are saying crank sensor. But I pulled it out of the car and threw my multimeter on it and it has 1.939k ohms, people have said it should be 2-2.5k ohms. Would this be my issue? Please help me out here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vacation-pix-171435.html pp. 2044-2045 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnarlingFox Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Is that the diagnostic manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnarlingFox Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vacation-pix-171435.html pp. 2044-2045 Oh, I got it. So you don't think it has to do with anything other than the crank sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I don't know. That's what the diagnostic procedure is for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnarlingFox Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 So here is what I did today. I replaced the crank sensor for giggles, it was only 30$. Still no start.... so I hooked my multimeter to the engine ground and the other end into one pin at a time.... absolutely nothing. I pulled the ECU out to see if it got wet, the corner has a good amount of rust on it but the circuit board appears to be intact. So should I begin rewiring the crank sensor or replace the ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 First off, replacing parts for giggles is getting off on the wrong foot. If you're going to replace before testing, you might as well have a good shop do your work, you'll save money in the long run. Enough preaching. I take it you proceeded with step 2 on page 2045 of the FSM, checking the resistance between sensor connector and ground, with ignition off? I want to make sure cause when you say "absolutely nothing", that's kind of vague. Do you mean your ohmmeter found an open circuit? I just want to make sure you weren't using your voltmeter and finding zero voltage. I'm also concerned that you leaped from there to pulling the ECU. That is definitely nowhere in the diagnostic procedure. Follow the procedure. If you get all the way through it and haven't found a fault, you have five more DTCs, and a manual with diagnostic procedures for each of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnarlingFox Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 First off, replacing parts for giggles is getting off on the wrong foot. If you're going to replace before testing, you might as well have a good shop do your work, you'll save money in the long run. Enough preaching. I take it you proceeded with step 2 on page 2045 of the FSM, checking the resistance between sensor connector and ground, with ignition off? I want to make sure cause when you say "absolutely nothing", that's kind of vague. Do you mean your ohmmeter found an open circuit? I just want to make sure you weren't using your voltmeter and finding zero voltage. I'm also concerned that you leaped from there to pulling the ECU. That is definitely nowhere in the diagnostic procedure. Follow the procedure. If you get all the way through it and haven't found a fault, you have five more DTCs, and a manual with diagnostic procedures for each of them. Sorry about being so vague, I was extremely tired. Yes, I had it on the ohms setting and I found an open circuit with ignition off. It is in my personal garage/ small shop. I've done quite a bit of work on cars but this is my first time working with anything electrical. This is not my daily driver, by the way. The reason I pulled the ECU and replaced the sensor was because I called a friend of mine who works at a Subaru dealership told me it is either the ECU or the crank sensor. I am going to take the rest of the day off and start re-wiring the crank sensor because of the open circuit. As for going about that, the manual says it goes to harness "b20" and then to "b135." I assume that b135 is the connecter at the ECU, but where is b20? Is that in the harness behind the intake sort of over the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnarlingFox Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Also, the tps codes and knock sensor codes will not clear when I send the erase codes function to the ECU, and when I crank the engine, I get no RPM signal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnarlingFox Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Hello, I just wanted to thank you, I fixed it tonight. It was poor wires in the engine harness loom. Car fires right up now. Seriously, thank you so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Outstanding! Nice work. And thank you for posting the resolution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseank Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Awesome! Whenever we have multiple codes we need to find the common link. So it was a ground wire? Or was it a reference wire that you found bad? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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