Zachariahc Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Alright. Found my cylinder #4 misfire obviously. Going to see if there are any machine shops open today and take these around to a couple. But. This is my first rebuild and I just wanted to ask a couple questions. Are these heads still good enough to use? Should I replace the one valve or consider all of them? What should I expect to pay for either one head or both? 2006 OBXT 140k MT no history or sign of modifications. This will be a build from an OEM short block after a colossal turbo failure. I'm hoping to use: New EJ255 short block Exisiting heads Headers/Uppipe Everything oil related Timing belt Gasket kit BNR 16g http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170203_192306_zpshj98gcxf.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170203_184627_zpsc2a33nkp.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170203_184700_zpsdc9n7r3d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted February 4, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted February 4, 2017 Depending on the scoring they can be polished out by the machine shop. Every machine shop charges differently so I can't chuck a figure at you other than what I paid for some similar which was roughly $600 (I had a bunch of special work done to them) - and they did polish the factory cams and journals to a usable state although I didn't use the original cams in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Heads are very expensive to buy new. Usually they can be rebuilt or just reground to get them flat. At a minimum, you would want to replace the two exhaust valves in the bad cylinder, regrind those two valve seats, lap all the other valves and reset the valve clearances. If the machine shop is doing the rebuild, they can advise you on whether you need to do more than that. You would want to get both heads done at the same time. Cost will depend on the work needed, total wild guess $400-500 + cost of any new valves and other parts. Make sure you download the Factory Service Manual for your model year. It has a section called ME(H4DOTC) that tells you exactly how to check the heads. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 The bearing don't seem to have any fatal scoring, it's not unusual to see some wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Awesome! I like hearing good things after the bad luck run that sent me into all of this. I just wanted some opinions before I went to the shops. I did get the other head off and found another cracked/blown valve. Hoping I can just get em rebuilt and be on my way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Just make sure that all oil channels are clean before you re-assemble. And use good oil. Put some lubricant on the bearings in the head before you re-assemble too. And the usual - replace all seals, check the valve guides etc. before putting back the heads. No point in being cheap when it comes to fresh seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Did you find any glitter in your oil pan? I'm guessing you've read the turbo fail sticky thread? Make sure you go through that if you haven't yet. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Noted and also agree on all points. Trying to be as thorough and take advice from everywhere as this is my first build. Another question. I found a lot of metal when I drained it before the pull. Seem pretty logical I replace ALL parts oil flows through correct? Pan, cooler, pump, lines. Maybe even dipstick tube and fill tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 I did. And I have read through that as well as many other posts. This rebuild has become an obsession. I've never rebuilt an engine. I've done a lot of things outside of an engine but never have I been into one. I'm making good progress I feel and the whole project encourages and scares me everyday haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Check out that sticky thread, should be covered pretty well in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 I'll be going through all pages. Thanks again for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseank Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I sent my heads out and spent 450 resurfacing, grinding valves and polishing cams. I didn't take the lash adjusters (buckets / lifters) so valve adjustment was a major pita as they were all too thick to even measure. I had to leave them out to get a baseline and then order all new. Obviously I missed on a few so I had to order 2 times. 32k later runs great. Get a custom tune Tuning Alliance and Cryotune (mine) both have great reputations Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Good to hear! I dropped them off monday. 470 to start plus parts plus lash adjustment and all. And I'm already in touch with cryotune. Can't wait to get this back on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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