jras312 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Over the past week or so I noticed the car would idle rough for 15 seconds or so on cold starts, the check engine light would blink for a few seconds also and then stay solid. Went to start the car yesterday morning and it would not fire. Things I've checked: good spark, about 185-190psi compession on all 4, spark plugs are wet with fuel, mechanical timing is correct. The only code that came up was a p0122. This car is giving me a lot of headaches between the fubared cooling system and now it wont start alltogether. I was thinking the next place to troubleshoot would be check fuel pressure to make sure its not too high? Do the regulators go out in these cars? I'm just really stumped because the timing is spot on, it sparks, and it wreaks of fuel after its been cranking. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Have you done any work to the car recently? What was changed? Trouble code P0122 indicates a problem with throttle body position sensor. That would be a good place to start. You might clean the throttle body, check wiring to sensor, check grounds. Sounds like a sensor problem potentially. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Fix the check engine light first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Have you done any work to the car recently? What was changed? Trouble code P0122 indicates a problem with throttle body position sensor. That would be a good place to start. You might clean the throttle body, check wiring to sensor, check grounds. Sounds like a sensor problem potentially. New head gaskets, timing belt & pulleys. Heads were machined flat. Fix the check engine light first. I cleared the code and can't get anymore codes to come back up after I try starting it for a while. It's worth noting the car is still having problems with the cooling system, the needle only shows just barely above the C on the gauge. It's got a new sender and the gauge itself is new from the dealer also. When I got the car, it had two resistors wired inline with the wire going from the gauge to the coolant temp sensor in the crossover pipe right at the harness plug. I've had a new OEM thermostat sitting on the bench for a few weeks and decided to swap that in yesterday since I was going to check the timing anyway and pull the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Based on wiring hack job, I'd be checking all the wiring harness on the intake manifold - as noted above. No, FPR's rarely fail. But Make sure you don't hydrolock the engine if you're getting all that fuel in the cylinders....and change your oil after you get it started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 What are the steps to test the TPS and IAT? I've verified both are getting a 5v signal from the ECU. I've got the electrical service manual downloaded but I don't see anything about testing things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Nospaces: jdm fsm. info / Auto / Japan / Subaru/ DL the FSM and find it...I know the older models have the testing procedure....so would guess newer(ish) do too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 this is what my sensor looks like procedure should be the same for the other style it will just be harder to turn the piece to check it. and there are two different styles of IACV also the plunger style with no coolant and the other one with coolant. anything you look up has people cleaning it with q tips but the plunger peice actually comes off for easy cleaning, cant find much about resistance testing them and they have like 6 pins so i wouldn't know where to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 Thanks for the replies, I've already started on exposing the wiring and I will continue tonight with removing the TB and cleaning everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 I still haven't been able to find how to test the IAT. But I went ahead and removed and cleaned the throttle body along with the IAT and ISC. Wiring looks fine. Would a bad TPS cause a complete no start? One thing I noticed is when the ignition is on and I move the throttle, I notice a buzzing sound coming from the engine bay. Is that normal? I'm really at a loss here and it's frustrating because I don't really have money to be throwing new parts at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 I've just rented a fuel pressure test kit and tried hooking it up before and after the filter-both reading zero. So I went ahead and sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body while trying to start it and then it backfired and shot fire out of the throttle body. Not really sure why the FP is reading zero when fuel comes out of the hose upon disconnecting, but I will see if I can find a container to catch the line off the filter and see how it flows out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Damn really? I wish you got that on video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Kind of a long shot, but where are you measuring zero fuel pressure? Is there any way the fuel lines could have got switched around so you are connected to the fuel return? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Well idk if I wasn't working the bleeder properly on the gauge or what, but after taking the pump assembly out and inspecting the o ring on the reservoir I got the gauge to read about 40psi after cycling the key a couple times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 or maybe your pump wasn't working when you first tried it, then started to again. sometimes if its a fuel pump problem you can hit the gas tank in the general area of the pump and get it to function again. so its running again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 No it's still not running. I was advised to check valve lash so I went ahead and did that late last night and am going to throw new spark plugs in today and see where that takes me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Checked and adjusted lash in some of the valves, new spark plugs and she fired on the first crank. Now I just need to figure out why my damn temp gauge won't go past this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Bad sensor maybe if you have a code reader check to see if the coolant goes past 168° Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 :munch:when you adjusted the valves did you have to take most of the fuel rail out and move it out of the way or do the valve covers come out pretty easy? only time i've done it with the engine in the car was on a 09 forester where you had to disassemble most of the fuel rail and move it up and out of the way? just curious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 :munch:when you adjusted the valves did you have to take most of the fuel rail out and move it out of the way or do the valve covers come out pretty easy? only time i've done it with the engine in the car was on a 09 forester where you had to disassemble most of the fuel rail and move it up and out of the way? just curious If I remember correctly the only thing I removed was the washer fluid reservoir. Not too bad of a job, took about an hour and it was my first time doing it. Bad news is I think my head gaskets are leaking again, guess I should have had the block deck checked when I machined the heads. It's just strange that the coolant gauge won't go any higher, wouldn't it overheat if the HG has been compromised? It's got a new sensor and the gauge itself is new also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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