RJLGT Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Hey guys, I recently bought an 08 Legacy GT Limited in manual with around 96k miles, for only 10 grand. I've recently noticed when I depress the clutch pedal I get a harsh scratching/squealing noise, and what's weird is the noise happens when I'm decelerating in gear. Recently after coming up a grade I came to a stop shortly after and noticed the scratching whooshing noise when I was accelerating and decelerating? I'm not familiar enough to understand what could cause this in these subarus. I'm leaning towards a throw out bearing or even just replacing the entire clutch and looking at the the slave cylinder maybe? I'm not sure what to do I've researched it but everyones exact symptoms are different. I also have put the car up to 104k miles since purchase and need a timing belt and don't have any clue what is the most reliable kit these days as Ive heard rumors about gates and other crap. So if anyone has had a similar issue with their clutch squealing and know what it is also if anyone has a good suggestion on a timing belt kit that would be awesome. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Suggestions: AISIN TKF004(includes waterpump, no cam/crank seals) or ContiTech TB328LK1 (includes waterpump, no cam/crank seals) or ContiTech TB328LK4 (includes waterpump + cam/crank seals) There are also versions that do not include the waterpump. rockauto.com seems to have the best prices (about $250). You might want to double-check those part numbers. IMHO I would not use Gates until they use OEM quality parts as they used to do. I had to buy a new idler from the Subaru dealer because I didn't want to install Chinese parts on my interference engine. That idler alone cost $55 dollars and that was a discounted price. On the clutch noise, it is really hard sometimes to tell just from a verbal description. Maybe you could post a short video? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJLGT Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Haha I coincidentally have the same exact kit TFK004 in my cart ready to buy from rock auto. I'm going to have the clutch looked at by a pro u don't want a TOB to ruin my transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Haha I coincidentally have the same exact kit TFK004 in my cart ready to buy from rock auto. I'm going to have the clutch looked at by a pro u don't want a TOB to ruin my transmission. Makes sense. There is a repair kit for the transmission "snout" if worse comes to worse. The kit includes a steel sleeve that fits over the damaged snout and an oversized throw-out bearing. If you need this kit, there are some writeups in the forum about it, or you can post questions about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJLGT Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Would you say that this car was a decent buy for 10k? I want to make it a comfortable 275whp but I'm not sure what the life expectancy is on these turbo engines especially when you modify them. I happen to live in a slow exempt area, would you suggest a catless downpipe and a tune or would you say catless is too loud and smelly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Prices vary a lot depending on the area. Pacific Northwest and Colorado are more expensive, from what I have seen. Not sure where you are from, maybe Eastern Oregon or Washington (guessing). Best thing to do is look at what comparable cars sold for in your area. It is hard to generalize about lifetime for these turbo engines, but 250,000 miles seems do-able with a turbo rebuild somewhere along the way. People that get long engine life tend to have conservative tune, do a lot of highway miles and maintain the car very well. What mostly kills these engines is detonation from a bad tune, low oil or lack of maintenance. For power mods, consensus is that the "sweet spot" is a good quality downpipe with high-flow cat and a conservative ECU tune and stay happy. With stock turbo, you won't see much benefit from changes to the catback exhaust. It is important to understand you should not do any power mods on these cars without getting the ECU tuned to match. That would include intake, exhaust, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, wastegate changes, boost controllers, etc. There's tons of info in the archives here. This just touches the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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