RustyRuu Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 so like it says i have some problems with a bung hole.. its the one at the PCV (positive crankcase vent) the problem happened a few months back when i split my case and was taking all the sensors off to have it cleaned and measured. when removing the pcv i got it to turn but very slowly did it come out and i didnt realize at the time the entire bung was coming out of the case/block the threads from the pcv itself are locktite'd to the bung and came out in one peice. i cannot just by another PCV and i'm sure that bung is not in the parts catalog so i am stuck do i just "press" it back in all together as one piece its pretty impossible to separate the two at this point but i keep trying. find a wreaker and try and removve the bung and separate that vent from the bung and get a new pcv and press that bung in... just grabbing at straws here for any ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 ::bump:: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Not really sure what part you're talking about. Can you point it out on this diagram? And posting a pic of the part and your case would help. http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2002_Legacy25L-SS-4WDGT-Sedan/_54102_6023185/CYLINDER-BLOCK-BODY/B12-004-02.html GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Sounds like you need peepee for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 Not really sure what part you're talking about. Can you point it out on this diagram? And posting a pic of the part and your case would help. http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2002_Legacy25L-SS-4WDGT-Sedan/_54102_6023185/CYLINDER-BLOCK-BODY/B12-004-02.html its actually not in that diagram but its located under2 and 3 in that diagram. its number 6 in this one but it doesnt show where it goes on the block. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_1/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_4/ a picture is going to do the best justice for this so ill grab one today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 so as you can see the actual valve is threaded into this piece then that piece is pressed in. wanted a new one but im sure they dont really sell those bottom ends anywhere. it still rattles and everything is clean so im half tempted to just "press" it back in (lube it up and smack her back in with a socket and hammer). i think newer models have some sort of sensor now along with the vent but i dont have to worry about any of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Whoa! That's highly interesting. Is the piece that's supposed to be pressed in aluminum or steel? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 I am not scared to admit, i cannot tell the difference in metals. it defiantly is hard to scar it. i been using a crescent wrench on the bottom part and it hasn't been buggered at all like the actual hex head of the valve. defiantly doesn't want to come out though and its hard to grab it enough to even try. does seem tougher than aluminum. i know you can dig into aluminum with a razor blade but with this one you probably could only scratch it. i hope that kinda answered that question. what were you thinking? heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Put it in a vise, heat it, and then try to get the PCV out. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 anyone have any ideas if you don't have a vice or torch, my neighbor welds and will let me use a small propane/ butane torch but if no vice is available i guess i just get to keep trying with the vice grips/ channel locks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Take it to a machine shop, show them the pics of the block, and ask them for advice. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Take it to NAPA or some other shop and ask them to separate them. ^^ oops should refreshed the page before posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 If it rattles, it still works. I think you might be doing more work than is required. Are you sure you cannot buy a replacement? Have you looked on opposed-forces for a part number? You can heat the portion that the PCV threads into and loosen the other part with a wrench. The torch should burn off/heat up the threadlocker enough to get it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Once you get those separated, Loctite that thing back into the block, DO NOT Loctite the pcv valve that screws into your bung hole... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 thats sort of why i want to separate them before i just shove it back in there. if i dont, and i ever need to remove it i will be very difficult to remove, as it was the first time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malik21 Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Any luck?. I just took mine out of my block with a bar breaker and allen socket and adapter. I was curious to see if mine were gonna be hassle to get out. Luckily it wasnt. Have you gotten a vice yet and tried hitting it with a butane torch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 not yet tomorrow is my one day off, so hopefully i can get it done and move on. then ill get my mounts sometime this week and maybe next Tuesday ill have a motor in my car. fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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