trepetti Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 A little history.. A little while ago I replaced an OCV (P0011) and the hose from the Intercooler to the throttle body (major leak). Big improvement. But I still have drivability problems in the 2500-3000 range. I finally got my OP2 cable to work for a while and pulled the attached LV. The timing being pulled coincides with the operating range where the problems are felt, but an IAM of .312? Geesh. 2009 LGT with a dealer-installed shortblock done about 25k ago. Overall 126k miles. I would not be surprised if I have another sensor or actuator misbehaving, but the car has no codes. The Learn% shows it pulling fuel, so that tells me the AFR sensor says the motor is running rich, but I would have expected a lean condition, causing knock and pulling timing. I don't know where to start. Anyone see this before? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtonstilts Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Ive seen worse. Needs timing map adjusted. What kind of tune does it have ? Is this gt or na ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 I highly advise getting a cobb accessport and a custom etune. Cobb provides more tables (i.e AF learning 3) over open source and because of this you can get a better quality tune (take it from the experts). PM us if it's something you want to discuss. -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trepetti Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 I highly advise getting a cobb accessport and a custom etune. Cobb provides more tables (i.e AF learning 3) over open source and because of this you can get a better quality tune (take it from the experts). PM us if it's something you want to discuss. -Brian Thanks Brian, unfortunately family circumstances right now puts a kibosh on recreational spending. I am going to have to 'MacGyver' this with nothing more than an OBDII scanner, and an unreliable OP2. That being said, my theory is a bad or wrong O2 sensor (replaced by an independent some time ago). I am hoping to get my logging tools working again, and figure I will reset the ECU and log: AFR Requested AFR Measured Knock Fuel Injector Pulse Width Fuel Injector Duty Cycle LTFT STFT O2 Voltage FLKC Any advice would be appreciated. How would you approach finding a mis-reading O2? Log more? Log less? Log nothig and use a differnent approach? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 have you double checked heat shields? Fuel trims don't look massively horrible. I would start by checking everything is tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trepetti Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Give me some more detail Matt. Is the theory that loose heat shields are causing noise that the knock sensor is interpreting as knock? Didn't realize they were that sensitive. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Very sensitive. Heat shields/trans bushings/engine mounts/engine top mount wishbone rubbing on tmic/AC clicking on. Basically anything you can think of that can make a slight vibration. Do some reading on knock, theres a ton of info on here and nasioc. The ECU will do its best to identify and ignore false knock, but it doesn't work all of the time. Check your knock sensor is not loose too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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