CEL and cruise control lights

[Jbk100]

I have a CEL and a blinking cruise control light which came while sitting in bumper to bumper traffic for half an hour., Of course every shop is closed and my scanner doesn't work.

 

Anyone have experience with the same issue? I have to get to work tomorrow, but I don't want to do harm.

 

Long time reader, first time poster.

 

2015 3.6r, 30k miles, very well maintained.

[RustyRuu]

i just went through this in my 09 forester but my only other symptom was the stability/ traction light was on also only code was a misfire on cylinder three...

 

but this could be a number of things that cause this, the blinking cruise light, if you do a search you will find a number of possibilities. i came the conclusion that if you don't have your codes read you will not get any closer to a definitive answer.

 

it could be as simple as removing your gas cap and putting it back on, to any other problems like MAP/MAF (i dont know 2015 3.6's at all), or like mine it was a cylinder misfire. i've also heard it could happen if you lose all your rear lights i think its something fuse related that might need checked (but could throw that light).

[Richard_Mtl]

stop by autozone and have them pull the code for you.

[Jbk100]

Code was P0072 which is an ambient air temperature sensor fault. I'm going to say it was related to me sitting practically bumper to bumper in the heat at the time. I had just started moving after being stuck in one spot for 10 minutes.

 

Thanks for the help

[CBRRICH]

Mine just started this weekend: CEL and Blinking cruise light. Additional observation was the car had no power. I went right to Autozone and they pulled 3 codes (2006, 2007, 2009) all relating to the Tumble Generator Valve. Sort of makes sense in this case, if those valves do not open the air has to flow through a port about 1/4 the size it should and that would certainly kill the performance.

 

I agree you best get codes before you do anything else.

 

I unplugged and inspected the connectors on the TGV (position sensor and stepper motor), and drove the car, some people had immediate results. I no change until I drove the car for about 10 minutes. The lights are still on but the power came back. Probably just some intermittent problem that may be hard to find. Anybody else seen this?

[CBRRICH]

Update: I pulled the brake vacuum hose and started the car. I then sprayed nearly a complete can of Gumout into the inlet manifold. Oddly, after some stumbling and almost stalling, I was able to spray continuously until things smoothed out. Not sure how this is possible, maybe the O2 sensor cut back the fuel injectors so it was basically running on Gumout. Either way, the exhaust went from a burble to sounding so smooth you could mistake it for a V12 (well maybe that's a stretch). The car was now running considerably better, the power was back but the CEL and cruise light blinking were still happening. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, we'll see if they come back.

[CBRRICH]

Further update: Codes did not come back...until now and for some reason went back off again in about 50 miles. Gave it another treatment, this time with Seafoam Spray Top End Cleaner. Followed the direction on the can again using the brake booster to supply the spray.

 

Similar results as last time, the engine was idling silky smooth and felt peppier. Probably not a bad idea for anyone else with 100K plus engines (Mine is 143K) to clear deposits.

 

I also have noticed a big difference between running Shell Premium instead of the cheap stuff (A1Prime around here). I was having an issue where the idle would drop below normal, since I have been using the Shell gas it has been OK.

 

We'll see if any of this helps. No matter what, replacing or removing the TGV is a bit of a big deal, if the seafoam can free it up, all the better.