Chaztschida Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Clutch engages.. no weird sounds.. i know there is refrigerant (possibly too much idk yet) but i get absolutely nothing but hot air unless im doing 80 with the ac off then i get slightly cooler air.. i think that's all i know atm.. appreciate any help guys it's gettin hot out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Hmm - could be many things. When did you first notice this? Recently or been like this for a while (say 3-6 months+)? How many miles/years since you've last had the system inspected? Do you occasionally use the AC in the winter to keep the compressor lubricated and get the refrigerant flowing? Regular fan modes and heater working ok? How does your cabin filter look? Let the car idle, put the AC on medium cold, medium or high fan speed and have a look in the engine bay. Look/listen around the AC compressor itself, evaporator, return lines, etc. The evaporator is typically sandwiched with the radiator and its a good idea to periodically separate them a bit, clean up anything that's built up in between, blow dry and remove any debris, look for rock damage, etc. A good shop will hook you up to a refrigerant re-charge machine and perform some tests free of charge - including checking the current refrigerant level. Should only charge you if they drain and refill the system, do a full purge, etc. After all of above, finding our if you have too little (likely) or too much refrigerant (unlikely) will be key. If they do find you are low, let them do a full purge, leak test, recharge (to spec, in the manual and/or hood sticker) and add some dye so they can detect leaks after you drive around and use the AC for the next 4-6 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaztschida Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 I just got the car this winter so i never even tried the ac but its never worked not even a little.. when i hooked it up to my recharge kit after the first little shot the pressure sky rocketed (assuming that means its not a leak). today i had my girlfriend play with all the controls while i was under the hood.. didnt hear anything weird and the clutch engages and disengages perfect.. havent checked the filter yet.. i read somewhere that with my symptoms it might be the blend door.. my fan and heater work fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Is the suction line (the big one) from the evap to the compressor cold to the touch when running? That's about all I've got without putting a proper gauge set on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaztschida Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 I'll check that and get back to ya.. how long does it need to be running before it should be cold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Not long, usually just a minute or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaztschida Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 Nope its super hot actually.. burned my fingers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Ok well that's definitely not right. "cold" is ideal, cool is ok, lukewarm is a problem. "burned my fingers"=shit's jacked up big time, yo. really need a manifold gauge set to see what the low and high side pressures are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaztschida Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 Yeah im gonna pick one up here soon found a place to rent me a vacuum pump for $20 so ima clean the system while im at it maybe its clogged up and thats why its getting hot idk.. dont really wanna pay to get it looked at sonce ac parts aint to cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Throwing parts/freon at a problem you don't fully understand ain't cheap either. Vacuum pump does not "clean" the system, just evacuates air/moisture prior to recharging. It's standard procedure to pull a vacuum after the system has been open for servicing but it does not do anything to dislodge a clog. AC system is mostly pipes with a pump and a valve in a loop. No significant obstructions except for expansion valve (where lines enter evap at firewall), receiver/drier (in right side of condensor in front of radiator--it's just a big can of dessicant), and the compressor itself. Hot suction line could indicate an expansion valve stuck open, insufficient airflow across the condensor, overcharging, and probably a handful of other things I can't think of. If you don't KNOW why it's not working, you can break some of those expensive AC parts that may not currently be broken. You can blindly plug away at it or maybe spend 1/2-1hr labor for a pro to diagnose it. . . then do your own repairs and rent that vac pump if you feel like recharging it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan in Texas Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Find a specialty shop that deals with air-conditioning. Let them hook up their gauges and figure it out. You don't want to start throwing Freon into a system that could be clogged. Then you have too much and it messes up things like the evaporator or condenser. Air-conditioning is usually best left to the pros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Are you sure you put your hand on the low side line and not the high side? Your low pressure reading should be around 35-40 when the compressor is engaged on a hot day. If the system gets way over filled it will purge itself but only enough to prevent major damage. If you do not know what you're doing I recommend taking it a shop and letting them look at it for you. I still can't believe it's perfectly legal to buy 134a in a store. When I was still in school (not long ago because I'm only 29) you had to be certified and carry a card to be able to purchase 134a and you needed another cert to be able to purchase r12. It's really bad for the ozone and releasing it into the air can get you in big trouble if caught. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 I'd wondered the same thing. . if he was grabbing the wrong line. Pic to illustrate. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=231882&stc=1&d=1465696746 Discharge line from the compressor to the condensor will be hottest, skinny aluminum line across back of firewall may be warm but significantly cooler than the one directly off the compressor, suction line should be cold or cool. If you have the temps I'm describing and you're not getting cool air out the vents it might be worth investigating the blend door. I still can't believe it's perfectly legal to buy 134a in a store. When I was still in school (not long ago because I'm only 29) you had to be certified and carry a card to be able to purchase 134a and you needed another cert to be able to purchase r12. It's really bad for the ozone and releasing it into the air can get you in big trouble if caught. I'm with you there. I shake my head every time I go into the parts store and see the shelves full of the "AC PRO" recharge kits for $50 as if that's the fix-all for every aircon problem. Then again I buy it by the 30lb cylinder. . . for about $80. But I've got a recovery station and at least a reasonable understanding of the theory behind how it works and what to check when it doesn't. I wouldn't try to diagnose an AC problem without at least a gauge set any sooner than I'd attempt to figure out a check engine light without a scanner. You're flying blind in either scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaztschida Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 My compressor is on its way out the door BECAUSE the air recirculation button you have to have in with the a/c wasn't working so my compressor was overworking tryi NV to pump a/c that had nowhere to go... button is fixed now so i get some a/c.. until my compressor dies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 I question your hypothesis. Show your work. Use additional pages if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaztschida Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Lol not mine... i took it in... they said it wasnt working cuz that button wasnt working but all the time i had the a/c on without it actually being allowed into the car damaged the compressor... idfk man it coulda been on its way out the door already they just didnt have anything else to blame it on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 The fresh/recirc switch has nothing to do with how much air is circulated over the evaporator. . . roughly the same amount either way. The only difference is where that air comes from. . . inside or outside the car. Furthermore, the system uses an expansion valve (versus an orifice tube like other manufacturers do) and a host of pressure switches on both the high and low pressure side of the system to control compressor operation. Even if NO air were passing over the evaporator it should have no adverse affect on the lifespan of the compressor. Probably lengthen it actually as it's run time would be a lot less. So I'm calling bullshit on that explanation. But hey if you're cool with it it's your car and your money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Mac Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I'm with you there. I shake my head every time I go into the parts store and see the shelves full of the "AC PRO" recharge kits for $50 as if that's the fix-all for every aircon problem. Then again I buy it by the 30lb cylinder. . . for about $80. But I've got a recovery station and at least a reasonable understanding of the theory behind how it works and what to check when it doesn't. I wouldn't try to diagnose an AC problem without at least a gauge set any sooner than I'd attempt to figure out a check engine light without a scanner. You're flying blind in either scenario. Its crazy ay. And the fines registered techs can get for venting gas are unbelievable and yet anyone else can just go down to the shop and do it themselves without a clue of the potential enviromental damage. Those recharge cans aren't actually legal in my neck of the woods, thank god. You're lucky 30lb jugs only cost you $80. Down where I am its about $150 plus a couple of hundred for some safe handling/disposal levy on top of that. Jugs of R404a are at a touch under $1K including levies which is pure madness. 2000 Legacy B4 RSK - SOLD 2006 Legacy BP5 GT Spec B wagon - Garage Thread 2011 VW T5 van 2.0L of turbo diesel awesomeness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 if you suspect over charge.... 1. evacuate system and make sure it can hold a vacuum. (in this case I would go for 4 hours) 2. if it DOES hold a vacuum, recharge with amt of refrigerant listed on the A/C sticker. Do it by weight. 3. take pressure readings and see what they are. They will correspond to relative temp and humidity. if your high side pressure is too high, you have a blockage in the system. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 4 hours If you pull 30hg vacuum and it holds for 15 minutes, you are good to go as far as filling the system. DO NOT FORGET pag oil or you will regret it. You also have to be able to evacuate the oil to know how much to put back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilkems Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 We had a similar problem in our 2000 outback. It spun up and looked just fine, but the compressor was indeed broken. The expansion valve was broken and stuck. Replaced the compressor, expansion valve, coolant, and oil. Wam Bam up and running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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