Injector swap tutorial

[BBPeik]

So I swapped out my injectors this evening with the Cobb 725cc units and decided to do a quick write up with some pics for others interested in the same thing.

 

First off I will post a pic of the injectors side by side. You can see right off that the Cobb units are a much better quality than our factory units. They do have a different style plug than we have factory, but the injectors came with a nice pigtail so it was super easy to adapt them to our application.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/20160425_190116_zpsnwdozehq.jpg

 

First I will go over the passenger side. First thing will be removing the intake pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. It is super easy so that is all I will say about it. There is an annoying metal cover over the fuel rails on both sides of the motor. The passenger side was especially annoying because there is one bolt that you can not remove unless you remove the tgv actuator. I did not really want to do this, but I did find that if I remove the other two I was able to bend it enough to gain access. You also need to remove two 10mm bolts that hold on the hose assembly to the injector cover.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/Pass%20side_zpsrauqmsxr.jpg

 

Once that is all out of the way, You can see here how I just bent it a bit and had plenty of access, There will be two 12mm bolts holding down the fuel rail. Once these are removed you can pull upwards on the rail and then separate the injectors from the rail itself. All of the rail and injector parts are just pressed together, so with gentle persuasion they will easily pop free.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/pass%20no%20cover_zpsc5gqfrl9.jpg

 

Once the injectors are out just swap in the new ones and reverse the removal procedure and you will be good to go. Be sure to lube the o rings on the new injectors with a non petroleum based lube like silicone spray to ensure you do not tear the o rings.

 

Now on to the Drivers side. This side is easier to get to the bolts, but does present its own challenge in that there is a boat load of wiring that needs to be moved somewhat to gain good access. This side has four bolts. One of them holds a ground strap to the cover. I removed it just to give me a bit more play in the wires. You will also want to remove the two vent hoses from the valve cover as well.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/drivers%20side_zpsotxgthxd.jpg

 

As you can see in the next pic. I did have to unplug a few things to get a bit more movement out of the wiring. There is a wire that runs from the back of the motor to the front that you can see in the pic. It is attached to the injector cover with a plastic clip. You will need to remove that clip and then through very careful manipulation you can manage to get it around the cover so that the cover can be moved out of the way. It is a bit tricky, but only took a couple minutes.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/20160425_185708_zpsyhhgfxs4.jpg

Again you will have the two 12mm bolts holding the rail down. Just remove these and do the same as the other side to remove the injectors. Below is a pic with the injectors removed just for reference. I also noted that after I pulled the injectors there was some gunk in the injector seat. I used a q tip to clean them out prior to installation.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/20160425_190125_zpsdlea3lle.jpg

 

This next pic shows the pigtail that comes with the new injectors. It fits the factory plug well, but is a bit snug so just be careful installing it. As before once the injectors are in just reverse what you did and put it back together and all should be good.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah113/BBPeik/20160425_190543_zpsfkp7okib.jpg

 

Well that should be about it. I hope this helps anyone who might need it. I am sure that it was easier since my engine was out, but overall it is a pretty easy task.

Thanks

[RumbleRumble]

sweet tutorial. It was a good read.