ID1000 install - order of lines?

[SSpeed]

Finally getting around to my ID1000 install this weekend. I have their topfeed line kit as well. I only see a few write-ups and none cover exactly what I need.

 

On the OEM fueling, the top line goes in to the driver front rail, then to the driver rear, back around to the passenger front, then passenger rear and back out the bottom line. Or reverse.

 

ID's instructions say:

"The 12” long line will connect from the rear of the driver’s side rail to the OEM 5/16” supply line. One of the 5/16 barb adaptors will go at the other end of this AN line, then you’ll connect this barb to the OEM barb with the 5/16” fuel injection hose and hose clamps.

 

One of the long lines goes from the front of the driver’s side rail to the front of the passenger side rail. The other long line goes from the rear of the pass side rail over toward the driver side rail. The other barb adaptor will go on the end of this line, and the 5/16” fuel injection hose will go from there to the inlet barb of the fuel pressure regulator, and secure with hose clamps. "

 

Does order matter? Their instructions are different than the stock fuel route. Does it matter which goes on the upper line and which goes on the lower line?

 

http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000017345-04-06-subaru-sti-side-feed-to-top-feed-conversion-line-kit

 

Lastly, do I get rid of the OEM quick disconnects with this?

[Dujo]

In your 05, the supply line is on top ('07-'09 is reversed, just to make it confusing). It is a series setup as you describe it. Driver front, driver rear, passenger front, passenger rear and then back to return through the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator assembly is after all of the rails and injectors, just before the return line to the tank at the firewall/strut tower.

 

Sounds like they are changing the order of things for convenience. I *believe* order shouldn't matter as this is a closed loop system with the FPR ensuring that there is fuel pressure everywhere before the FPR. However, I don't think they're telling you to switch the top and the bottom. I *think* the only difference they're describing is that the supply line (again, on top for you) is going to the rear of the drivers side rail first rather than the front. Then rather than going from the rear driver to front passenger, they want you to do rear driver, through the rail, out the front, long line to the front of the passenger, out the back and back over to the fpr.

 

But I would not start changing where supply and return go by reversing the upper and lower lines. For that matter, are you sure that they mean to go through the oem hard line connections through the intake manifold, or are they actually telling you to delete all the hard lines under than manifold and run your new fuel lines directly over to the firewall supply and fpr on the return?

 

Somebody more knowledgeable needs to check me here though. I just struggled through a parallel setup and I'm not 100% sure I've gotten it right yet. Don't forget the evaporation line!

[SSpeed]

Thanks for the response. Sorry, I should have clarified, they are saying to get rid of the hard lines, which I have done. I was just wondering if I get rid of the quick disconnects too, I think I do.

 

Changing for order of convenience is what I figured they were doing as well, I can't think of why it would matter for a closed loop series system but I don't want to be wrong.

[Dujo]

I hear ya. I'm so not confident about mine that I'm gonna have my local shop look at before I even try to fire it up.

 

So yeah, the quick disconnects are really only gonna work on the hard lines with the right nipples, right? So, I think I agree that yes, you want to delete the quick connects as they relate to the hard lines at the manifold. Now, there are another set of quick disconnects for the firewall supply and return (as attached to the fpr) which I would recommend that you do *not* delete unless you really have to. There is an *extra* ridge on the firewall hard lines that makes it extremely difficult to get a standard disconnect tool in there. And then you really have to struggle to get 'em off of there. Supposedly, there's a proprietary oem tool to get those suckers off and it's super expensive, but I don't know all the details.

 

I managed to get one off at the firewall by grinding down my fuel line disconnect tool down so I could get it in there. But I couldn't get the second one off. Basically, you really (really) don't want to be yanking on those firewall hard lines if you don't have to. Breaking one of those lines is a really tough fix as you have to rerun a line to the tank. Use fuel line clamps on the existing short hoses at the fire wall if you can.

[SSpeed]

All installed and I didn't blow up or burst in to flames yet.

[Tuning Alliance]

All installed and I didn't blow up or burst in to flames yet.

 

Always a good sign. ID makes a fuel line kit also for your conversion that's not included in the top feed conversion package.