perryg114 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I have a blinking AT temp light after startup and the manual says AT control system problem. It drives and shift fine. Should I be concerned about this? Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 do a search for '' flashing AT Temp light ", lots to read. it indicates an electrical problem in the auto trans. the most common fault is the duty C solenoid that controls power to the rear wheels. try driving in slow tight turns in an empty parking lot. if you have '' torque bind '' you will feel it . and you probably have a bad duty C solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 I have been searching and there is this crazy procedure for getting the codes but it seems pretty far fetched. I have never had much luck with the count the blinking light codes. Can a local autoparts place read the codes with a computer? Is there a separate port for the AT different from the OBD II connector? Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Here is the best information that I have found so far but this does not seem to work. I never could get the AT temp light to do anything accept stay on when I did the procedure on page 20. I think the solenoid for the rear wheels is locked in the on position. I get some shuddering when I make sharp turns and it does not seem to want to back up well. I don't know if this is what they call binding because no one has ever said what the symptoms are. http://www.subaru-car.ru/for3/for3_trans_3.pdf Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 the most common fault is the duty C solenoid that controls power to the rear wheels. try driving in slow tight turns in an empty parking lot. if you have '' torque bind '' you will feel it . and you probably have a bad duty C solenoid. test drive slow tight circles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yes the rear wheel hops in a tight turn and the car acts like the brake is on when backing out of the driveway. I put a fuse in the FWD connector and I still has the binding issue. How much of a pain is it to replace the solenoid? Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 not impossible, you can do it in the drive way without pulling the trans. did you do the search. there is a bunch of info already posted on what and how to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yes doing searches all the time. It would be nice if I can find the connector for the Solenoid and test the resistance to see if it is open. I ordered a transmission service manual off ebay. I think that on the 96 you can read the transmission codes off the OBDII port. Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 when you put the fuse in, did you get the red FWD light on the instrument panel? if no, your duty C is bad, not working. there is a way to read the trans codes, but not with the obd reader or port. there is a black 6 pin connector under the dash, right of the steering column. all 4 pins are for reading trouble codes from different systems, trans, air bag, abs, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 No Red FWD light. There is a second connector other than the OBDII connector? Should I pull the drive shaft going to the read diff to keep from wringing something off till I get the solenoid fixed? Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I DROVE MY 95 almost 40k miles with no drive shaft. only remove the rear section. if you remove the front section, trans fluid will pour out . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 So better to remove the driveshaft than the screw up the rear drive system? It would give me a little time to get my Eclipse road worthy. Just bought a new car and only 2 of the 5 are in good shape LOL. What are the odds that everything I own would decide to die at the same time. Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryg114 Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Ok the deed is done. Drives a little different but much better than binding. According to the manual, there were some FWD only versions using this drive train. I got a pdf version of the original subaru manuals from a guy on ebay for about $15. These will help a lot. I don't think FWD for a while will hurt it. Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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