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Sticking pads on rear? Not bearing related, help!


Ryan in Texas

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Sometimes when I'm driving at low speed, I hear a grinding noise from the rear passenger side wheel. Then when I apply the brakes, the sound goes away. It's like a rubbing/grinding noise, very annoying. I'm sure it's the brake pads contacting the rotor, but I don't know why.

 

The pads are new. I lubed the caliper slides with the proper grease and they are not stuck or anything. I'm thinking the piston is not retracting? Is their a way to lube the piston?

 

It's not the wheel bearing, I"m almost 100% it's the pads making the noise on the rotor.

 

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

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Sometimes when I'm driving at low speed, I hear a grinding noise from the rear passenger side wheel. Then when I apply the brakes, the sound goes away. It's like a rubbing/grinding noise, very annoying. I'm sure it's the brake pads contacting the rotor, but I don't know why.

 

The pads are new. I lubed the caliper slides with the proper grease and they are not stuck or anything. I'm thinking the piston is not retracting? Is their a way to lube the piston?

 

It's not the wheel bearing, I"m almost 100% it's the pads making the noise on the rotor.

 

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

Ryan,

EDIT*** Wait a second.... REAR wheel. Make sure the parking brake is not adjusted too tight on that wheel (STAR adjuster... if its tight, the wheel will drag and you will hear grinding.

 

 

Below may not apply...........

If the sound absolutely stops when the brakes are applied, then its not the wheel bearing like Dujo suggests.

 

If you've greased the slides and the caliper is floating properly, its the piston.

 

Its possible to buy a caliper rebuild kit and replace the seals, etc. If its corroded on the inside, that won't work. Its quicker to buy a new caliper, replace, bleed and be done with it.

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They are cheap enough so just replace it. You can try cracking open the bleeder screw on the caliper and see if the piston compresses. If it does, then you have a collapsed brake hose. The rear calipers should compress very easily, you may even be able to do it by hand.
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I checked the ebrake and it was ok. Ordered one rear right caliper from AAP. NAPA could not get, Oreilly could not get, Dealer charges 300 for the part, so AAP it was.

 

A rebuild kit is only 4, but I'd rather have the whole new thing with slides and clean pistons. Worth 100 and an hour of my time.

 

Thanks for help!

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You want to make sure it's not collapsed internally. Brake hoses have a much smaller diameter than people think and although it looks normal, it's bad. If you can't compress the piston, crack open the bleeder screw and see if that helps.
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You want to make sure it's not collapsed internally. Brake hoses have a much smaller diameter than people think and although it looks normal, it's bad. If you can't compress the piston, crack open the bleeder screw and see if that helps.

 

The piston compresses. It's a very intermittent problem and happens about 40% of the time. I had no issue compressing the piston when I lubed the caliper slides last week. So it might be in the beginning of the failing stages.

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Ryan,

EDIT*** Wait a second.... REAR wheel. Make sure the parking brake is not adjusted too tight on that wheel (STAR adjuster... if its tight, the wheel will drag and you will hear grinding.

 

 

Below may not apply...........

If the sound absolutely stops when the brakes are applied, then its not the wheel bearing like Dujo suggests.

 

If you've greased the slides and the caliper is floating properly, its the piston.

 

Its possible to buy a caliper rebuild kit and replace the seals, etc. If its corroded on the inside, that won't work. Its quicker to buy a new caliper, replace, bleed and be done with it.

 

Dude... I think the E brake might be it. Just for shiz and giggles, I applied the ebrake while coming up the driveway. SAME exact sound from that wheel. I"m gonna back it off using the cog access on the rotor and see if that helps.

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