RobY Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 Im wondering if anybody can help me on this. The cusco rear underbraces come with additional hardware. 2 Long Bolts, 2 large washers, 2 smaller washers. Where do these things go... How do they go together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 there should be a pictorial in the instructions included. They replace the stock shorter bolts to compensate for the thickness of the bar flanges. The washers go between the bolt head and the lower arm flanges to make sure the force gets distributed. The larger washer goes between the flange and the body of the car.. you'll see it when you work on it, otherwise your instructions should include a diagram. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted September 29, 2005 Author Share Posted September 29, 2005 Thanks Keefe, So the longer bolts go on the lower arm (the one in the middle that both bars attach to). The smaller washer goes on the nut side of the lower arm... The large washer goes between the stock body bolt and the uppermost brace (the one that attaches to the body)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 Cool...now I sort of have an idea as to how this all goes together. Can this be done with ramps, in the rear? or does it require the car to be lifted? I have been waiting to install this and the front lower arm bar as well. Just haven't had the time, as yet. Anyway, lemme know how the install goes...and I think the torque specs on those bolts are about 90-95 ft-lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted September 29, 2005 Author Share Posted September 29, 2005 Yeah be careful though. You will definatley need to mark the cam bolts on the rearmost control arms. They are adjustment bolts for your toe. If they arent aligned right you might end up with a very loopy rear end and buttloads of tire wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Yeah be careful though. You will definatley need to mark the cam bolts on the rearmost control arms. They are adjustment bolts for your toe. If they arent aligned right you might end up with a very loopy rear end and buttloads of tire wear. Care to elaborate on that, a little more? How do you mark the bolts, so that you would know to put them back on correcrtly? Any info. is definately appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted October 2, 2005 Author Share Posted October 2, 2005 You draw a line from the center cam bolt to the mounting point as illustrated in the first picture in the instructions. When you put them back on line them up. To REALLY do it correctly you would now go off and get a 4 wheel alignment or at least a rear wheel alignment if people do such things, because you just screwed with the toe of your rear wheel. In most cases marking it off is sufficent if you are really anal then go get yourself an alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Gotcha. Thanks RobY. I will use some white paint or white-out or something similar, that will be easy to recognize...once I take it apart. Appreciate the help...and as is, the car could probably use an alignment...so I might have to find a reputable alignment shop in the area, and have that done, once the parts are in. Any recommended alignment specs, for the street? I already have f/r sways, and will be installing f/r lower arm bars...so, not sure what a nice street setup might be, beyond stock. Any info. or a point in the right direction would be all good. Much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted October 2, 2005 Author Share Posted October 2, 2005 Toe= zero for as little tire wear as possible. This is the only variable that is adjustable in the rear suspension. For the front I have my camber set to around -1.8. This is not reccomended if you do not drive agressively or like to take corners really fast. For the average daily driver I would reccomend no greater than -1.0 camber. Toe is zero in the front for me also. Caster is not adjustable on our cars at least without aftermarket camber/caster plates. EDIT: NEGATIVE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Thanks again. I will keep that in mind...and again, appreciate the help. Hopefully, I will have a chance soon, to install the parts...weekends go by too quickly...and one cannot piss of the significant other. Later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted October 3, 2005 Author Share Posted October 3, 2005 Correction... I have it set to NEGATIVE 1.8 (-1.8) and i would recomend (-1.0) You never want to run any positive camber. It will give you crappy handling and outside tire wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 yea, and over heat your outer edges like crazy. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Will keep the 'update' in mind. Thanks...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Bumping old thread, anyone know how much longer the bolts are? I bought braces used and they didnt come with bolts or washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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