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97 LGT issues: bucking, rear diff noise, coolant temp gauge, reverse grind


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Hello everyone, I just wanted to get a few opinions and hopefully some help with some issues I'm experiencing with my Lego. EJ25D

 

First of all, my car bucks a lot in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear while at low RPM's upon accelerating and decelerating. I thought it might have been my transmission mount, but I got it replaced with a solid mount and it is still very apparent. I am thinking it has something to do with the way my engine is accepting throttle. I asked a local mechanic and he told me it could be my TPS, front oxygen sensor, MAF sensor or MAP sensor. I cleaned the MAF sensor but haven't taken the time to check any of the others. My car also has a good amount of detonation in the exhaust if I feather the throttle while decelerating, sometimes really loud pops that are both awesome and inefficient. I am averaging around 18-21 MPG right now, running 91 with moderate spirited driving.

 

Secondly, when I am decelerating and begin accelerating sometimes I hear a noise coming from my rear differential/drive shaft that just sounds like a single knock. I don't know if this is even significant or if this has happened to anyone before, but it is just an afterthought.

 

My coolant temp gauge does this awesome thing where when I accelerate past 4500 RPM's it drops from its normal location (about halfway) down to the bottom of the gauge, with a pretty linear change relative to RPM's. I have no idea why this happens it just does.

 

Lastly, my car grinds into reverse about 1/4 the time. The first couple times I thought maybe I just didn't fully disengage the clutch or something, but I have had it happen with the clutch pedal on the floor sitting completely still at least 10 times now and I just wanted to know if that is something to worry about or if I should just let it be.

 

Any and all help is appreciated!

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what brand and size tires are you running.?

check your drive shaft to see if it is loose.

 

when I accelerate past 4500 RPM's it drops from its normal location (about halfway) down to the bottom of the gauge,

how fast are you going when you accelerate past 4500?

do both of your rad fans work?

it sounds like some one has tampered with your t-stat. maybe.

what does the inside of your overflow bottle look like?

has it ever over heated?

how long does it take to warm up in the morning?

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I just got brand new Kumho Ecsta ASX 225 50R16's and got it aligned. It had all of these issues before and after the new tires, but the old ones were unevenly worn and one of them kept going flat so I replaced them all.

 

how fast are you going when you accelerate past 4500?

do both of your rad fans work?

it sounds like some one has tampered with your t-stat. maybe.

what does the inside of your overflow bottle look like?

has it ever over heated?

how long does it take to warm up in the morning?

 

1.) It happens if I accelerate past 4500 in any gear, and I don't have to go WOT for it to happen

2.) I am not sure on the fans but I know at least one of them works because I can hear them kick on when I am sitting at a light

3.)I will have to check the overflow bottle

4.) I don't think it has ever overheated, the motor was rebuilt about 6k miles ago and I have only had it for about 3k miles

5.) It takes about 2-4 minutes to warm up in the morning. I thought it was something with the thermostat/water pump because the previous owner said that he replaced them but it warms up fine so I'm not sure.

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I just got brand new Kumho Ecsta ASX 225 50R16's and got it aligned. It had all of these issues before and after the new tires, but the old ones were unevenly worn and one of them kept going flat so I replaced them all.

 

good that you replaced them all.

the bucking could be torque bind.

it is caused by mismatched tires,

or a bad ''viscous coupler'' in the center diff.

and long term mismatched tires could damage the VC

and cause binding even after the tires are replaced.

have you had a chance to test drive the new tires?

is the bucking the same, better, worse?

 

(torque bind is when the front and rear wheels are locked together,

like driving a 4wd truck on dry pavement with the hubs locked.

great when in snow or mud, not so good on the street.)

 

try driving in slow tight turns, circles in first gear, little or no gas.

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Hi,

To add my .02.

 

I'd check your coolant/AF level. Sounds like accelerating causes the water flow enough to affect your CTS (coolant temp sensor). I'd still change the Tstat and CTS to Subaru ONLY versions since the 'bucking' can be attributable to a bad CTS.....the ECU gets wrong info from the sensor and sends the wrong data to the injectors and for timing.

 

The Reverse issue is common on Subaru 5-speeds. The best thing is to shift into 4th or 5th BEFORE Reverse...something to do w/the Synchros?....See if that helps....worked for me.

 

The 'single knock' in the driveshat/rear diff could be the center carrier bearing in the driveshaft. You'll NOT want to buy one new, but any Subaru Legacy from '95-'99 w/a speed should work if you can find one used.

 

GL,

TD

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Yeah I have a feeling the cooling system has had several parts replaced with aftermarket ones that are not Subaru spec. The mechanic I go to says that Subaru's are very feisty with parts so I'll probably be doing that. Thanks for the .02, that's definitely something I haven't looked at.

 

OH AND johnegg: My passenger side radiator fan does not kick on with the other one. It sits idle for some reason, idk if you were going somewhere with that?

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