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Today, I did my own oil change for the first time in my life.


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Just be sure you remove the correct drain plug. (A few others have not.) If this is your Legacy's first oil change since new, be aware that the drain plug may be difficult to break loose and the gasket may be stuck to the oil pan (by paint).

 

If you decide you want to continue doing your own oil changes (which I encourage), installing an oil drain valve (e.g. Fumoto) is highly recommended; it makes draining the oil almost a white-glove operation.

 

I second this. If you're going to be doing your own oil changes and keeping the car for several years, a Fumoto valve will be well worth it.

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Proper ramps, like the Rhinos. Fumotovalve is a must have. (Though on the wagon I had to pry the motor forward to get it on! Not so on the Spec b.) I added a piece of plastic hose to assist with the draining, less guess on the stream! Paper towels for the inevitable errant stream wandering! Nitrile gloves!

 

I have the filter wrench noted above, works great but I rarely need it as I only hand tighten and can hand-undo! I often take a nail and pound it into the filter bottom, remove and catch as much as possible in a plastic/Solo cup, dump it, and then unscrew the filter with the cup over it to catch the rest of the oil while unscrewing the filter. Take the filter down with it in the cup.

 

Don't forget to lube the gasket of the new filter for easier removal. If you hadn't, and/or over tightened it, and crushed the filter trying to remove, try the olde "pound a screwdriver through the filter horizontally and remove using that leverage!"

 

I change the oil/filter when the oil starts getting visibly dirty. Seems logical as the life blood of your engine.

Edited by HDTurbo
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I change the oil/filter when the oil starts getting visibly dirty. Seems logical as the life blood of your engine.

 

 

 

You really can’t judge oil just by looking at it. If you really want to know the life of an oil in your car, get a used oil analysis by someone like Blackstone.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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1. after you fill the car, let it sit for 5 mins and check oil

2. Then start car run it for a minute and check for leaks

3. let car sit for 5 mins and check oil again and add as needed.

 

 

when filling the car with oil it will take a bit for it to drain from the head into the sump

 

 

as for the crush washer, it typically sticks the the head of the bolt...

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I second this. If you're going to be doing your own oil changes and keeping the car for several years, a Fumoto valve will be well worth it.

 

Very good advice. I prefer this over the Fumoto however. Not a huge deal but I like the push and turn feature to drain the oil. I also like the threaded on cap to help manage the misplaced paranoia I had with the Fumoto opening up on its own.

 

https://www.stahlbus-us.com/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve-m16x15x12mm-steel-set.html

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You really can’t judge oil just by looking at it. If you really want to know the life of an oil in your car, get a used oil analysis by someone like Blackstone.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

But I can. And I do. 3k mi max. I’ve gotten Blackstone analysis done. I don’t put a lot of credence in their interpretations. I’m satisfied with my process and OCI. 241k mi on the wagon, 140k on Stage 2 tuning.

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I've done hundreds of oil changes on lots of different cars and have never been able to loosen it by hand. I've always assumed putting oil on the gasket is to help is seal better; I'm not sure how much it helps with making it easier to take off. I'm sure you'll be better prepared next time.

 

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

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I've done hundreds of oil changes on lots of different cars and have never been able to loosen it by hand. I've always assumed putting oil on the gasket is to help is seal better; I'm not sure how much it helps with making it easier to take off. I'm sure you'll be better prepared next time.

 

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

 

I always thought it was to keep the gasket from sticking.

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I always put oil on the gasket and I never have had a hard time taking the filter off. Usually I can do it by hand but a few times I've had to get it started with those big grippy filter pliers. The only filters I've ever had to destroy to remove are the ones put on a new motor by a car manufacturer. So yes, I always smear a film of oil on the filter gasket.
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(2) 200+ mile trips down. 5quarts still shows 3/4 filled between holes in the dipstick.

 

Before this I had a truck - took it to 165000 miles without any issues (did do brakes, motor mounts and 2 new sets of tires) - otherwise, I changed the oil every 3-5000 miles. Drive a lot for work - trying to change that here, but we will see if I can resist the expense money. Always took it to a local joint or dealership for a $20-40 dollar oil change. Doing it myself with the Legacy - I'll spend less than I did with the truck.

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