Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

2011 2.5GT COBB OTS Stage 1 Low DAM


Unsp0kn

Recommended Posts

So in my quest to learn more about tuning and tech talk, I figured I would fire up a thread about a concerning state I found my 5th Gen to be in yesterday. I'll try to keep the story short and to the point here, so bare with me. I figured it might help someone else to keep a log of this so when whatever might be wrong is corrected there can be some info for the next person(s).

 

 

2011 2.5GT

 

COBB AP V2

Stage 1 91oct OTS

PERRIN TMIC Coupler

Custom 3" Catback

No engine mods

 

I drove about 120mi to FormFest in Boise last weekend and notice that the car felt somewhat sluggish, as in it wasn't building boost as quickly nor getting very close to target PSI, the most obvious being in 3rd and 4th gears. I had recently read about the DAM (dynamic advance multiplier) parameter in the COBB AP, so I decided to check it out yesterday and saw it was sitting at .2. Well this concerned me as I had read that it needs to be at 1.0 and it makes perfect sense that it being low means something is wrong, so the ECU must be pulling timing to protect itself. Last night I re-downloaded the same map from COBB and flashed the car. Started it up and it now reads .8, but I haven't driven it yet today. My plan is to datalog it and have it checked, because I have no idea what I am looking at when it comes to the CSV that is exported.

 

I plan on logging this list and having it looked at for some input on what might be the issue.

 

A/F Correction 1 (%)

A/F Learning 1 (%)

A/F Sens 1 Ratio (AFR)

AVCS Exh. Left (°)

AVCS Exh. Right (°)

AVCS In. Left (°)

AVCS In. Right (°)

Boost (PSI)

Calculated Load (g/rev)

Coolant Temp (° F)

Dyn. Adv. Mult (DAM)

Dynamic Adv. (°)

Dynamic Adv. Lrn (°)

Feedback Knock (°)

Fine Knock Learn (°)

Gear Position (Gear)

Ignition Timing (°)

Inj. Duty Cycle (%)

Inj. PW (ms)

Intake Temp (° F)

Intake Temp Manifold (° F)

MAF Corr. (g/s)

MAF Volt. (V)

Man. Abs. Press. (PSI)

Oil Temp (° F)

RPM (RPM)

Target Boost (PSI)

Throttle Pos. (%)

Wastegate Duty (%)

 

I have noticed that some of these aren't in my list though, like MAF Corr and Oil Temp. Possible my AP needs to be updated and if so, I will do that when I can and see if they show up. I'm hoping it's just a post MAF boost leak causing my issue, so my fingers are crossed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not familiar w/ the 2011 maps, but the 05 Cobb maps disable boost control when DAM drops below 0.35 and a certain amt of FLKC is being applied. The higher DAM right after reflash is probably from the DAM Reset (Initial Step Value), ie: the map defaults DAM to a certain value upon reflash.

 

Maybe one of the tuner guys will weigh in but IMO you don't need several of your listed parameters for you purposes. Logging too many parameters can slow down the log polling rate. If your AP2 is on newer firmware, your should be able to see 10+ samples/sec even when logging ~15 or so parameters. Older firmware yielded relatively slow polling rates of about 3-5 samples/sec which IMO is too slow for datalogging knock issues.

 

AVCS Exh. Left (°)

AVCS Exh. Right (°)

AVCS In. Left (°)

AVCS In. Right (°)

Dynamic Adv. (°)

Dynamic Adv. Lrn (°)

MAF Corr. (g/s)

MAF Volt. (V)

Oil Temp (° F)

RPM (RPM)

 

What you should do is datalog full-time from this point forward (after reflash/ECU reset), so that the log can catch whatever might be going on that drops DAM.

 

Also, after you've driven for a while (perhaps a few days, actually), check to see what AF Learning #1A, B, C, D are. The fuel trims can help identify if there's a vac/boost leak that might be contributing to the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got a data log this morning on my way to work, so it's about 11 minutes or so and it's too big to post up here.

 

DAM stayed at a consistent .81, boost peaking at about 14.3psi in 3rd, Feedback Knock was 0 the whole time and Fine Knock Learn biggest value was .7. I'll see if I can host this file somewhere so it can be viewed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got a data log this morning on my way to work, so it's about 11 minutes or so and it's too big to post up here.

 

DAM stayed at a consistent .81, boost peaking at about 14.3psi in 3rd, Feedback Knock was 0 the whole time and Fine Knock Learn biggest value was .7. I'll see if I can host this file somewhere so it can be viewed.

 

The FLKC 0.70 (it is +0.70, not -0.7, correct?) is indicating that DAM < 1.0 and the ECU is experimenting w/ adding in some timing in various places to see if any knock occurs w/ the increased timing.

 

Since you don't seem to have any knock being reported, you might want to warm up the car, reset the ECU, start the car, start a datalog, then very shortly after starting, do a quick pull in say 3rd under moderate boost or even WOT for a few seconds (~3-4 sec in my experience) to see if DAM will increase to 1.0. Normally after a reset and a quick boosted run, the DAM will go to 1.0 unless knock occurs. After that, log continuously, looking for knock or DAM changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The FLKC 0.70 (it is +0.70, not -0.7, correct?) is indicating that DAM < 1.0 and the ECU is experimenting w/ adding in some timing in various places to see if any knock occurs w/ the increased timing.

 

Since you don't seem to have any knock being reported, you might want to warm up the car, reset the ECU, start the car, start a datalog, then very shortly after starting, do a quick pull in say 3rd under moderate boost or even WOT for a few seconds (~3-4 sec in my experience) to see if DAM will increase to 1.0. Normally after a reset and a quick boosted run, the DAM will go to 1.0 unless knock occurs. After that, log continuously, looking for knock or DAM changes.

 

Yep it was +.7 briefly, +.35 during one 2-3 pull and then zero everywhere else. I will reset after the car is warm and try what you have suggested tonight after work and see if I can get the CSV hosted somewhere. File is too large for the forum attachment setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should do a few short logs. The cruising logs are pretty much useless. If you can do some pulls in 3rd gear at least, it would be great. And, file size is less than 1MB.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can always copy excerpts of the logs that contain the WOT portions, and if you want dedicated WOT logs, simply stop the current log on the AP, wait a moment, start a new log, wait a moment, then hit the throttle, stop the log, resume cruise logging. You want to be datalogging all the time in an attempt to catch any knock or esp DAM changes, since that's what your OP was about in the 1st place.

 

How do the current logs look? DAM back up to 1 or still sitting tight below that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got some feedback from a pro and the consensus is that the OTS tune and my car don't quite get along and it looks like nothing is seriously wrong. Going to be getting an e-tune very soon after I install the GFB Mach 2 I just ordered today.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got some feedback from a pro and the consensus is that the OTS tune and my car don't quite get along and it looks like nothing is seriously wrong. Going to be getting an e-tune very soon after I install the GFB Mach 2 I just ordered today.

 

Is there any way on God's green Earth that you can get a dyno tune instead of an e-tune? I drove 2.5 hours for mine. It makes a difference.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is and I'll likely get it done in Boise since there is a shop that can finally do AWD. An e-tune is better than OTS though and I have a limited budget right now and I still need snow tires. Next year will be better.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use