gimpydingo Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 The cooling system was pressurized and no issues found from that. I burped the system several times, everything was good when I took it for a decent drive up some mountain roads. Of course wife took to work today, and after 30 miles and uphill it started overheating again, the needle didn't get as high and temps started to drop fairly quickly. I'll check my thermostat that I replaced to see if it's good and flush the system one more time. I am dropping off the car at a mechanic next week for them to check it out. I read on another forum someone mentioning burping the system when engine is cold, then warm up and continue to burp. So I let the car cool enough to get the top rad cap off, put in the funnel, added just a bit of coolant so it was just in the funnel, and squeezed the rad hose, a lot of air came out. Worst case I'll flush and start fresh this weekend, test it, take it to the mech and see what's up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 You need to burp it from the turbo reservoir, not the the radiator. The turbo reservoir sits higher than the rad, so that needs to be burped last. Also helps that you jack the passenger front side up to force more air out through the turbo reservoir. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Oh yes, forgot to mention. I have it jacked up and burping from turbo res. I made a mess of this. Worse case I'll drain and start again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Wasn't able to get to the mechanic, making another appointment. Besides the overheating, still no other signs of head gasket. That being said after flushing the system and burping again, it is doing the same thing, which I would think would point to head gasket. The temp rose up to past 3/4, then while sitting in traffic on a hill it dropped back down to normal. Hopefully the mechanic can find the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 That sounds just like a blown HG. I had the same issue one, chasing down all possible reasons until finally one day I started seeing bubbles in the reservoir. It took about 2 months before it was pronounced. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Prob last update before it goes to the shop. Leaning towards HG. When burping the turbo reservoir there are no bubbles until the thermostat starts to open. And there are small bubbles coming up slowly, not a huge gush of constant bubbling. Thinking slight HG, but obviously enough for some overheat. Just thinking ahead before I get to the mechanic. If HG, but pistons are good - then just machine the heads and slap on a better HG? I would take the bet at least one of my pistons has a cracked ring. If so then choice is cost of machining vs new SB? These seem to be the two choices I've mainly seen on the forum. Thoughts? EDIT: Dropping the car of to the mech on Monday for them to look at in between appointments, actual appt date isn't until Oct 8. Figured if I can get a diagnosis ahead of time I can plan the attack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Mechanic has looked at the car, still the rad/cooling system is fine. They can't get it to overheat, which is understandable considering how/where I drove it previously. They are thinking small leak developing in the HG, surprise I know! Talking to the woman at the front, asked about them pulling the engine to do the gasket job - was told one mech does, the other typically does not. So I mentioned since they had done a leak down a while back and cyl 4 was quite a bit more leaking than the rest and it does like to eat some oil, that I would like the pistons inspected for ringland damage. She says she understood and if there is damage then #YNASB. I told her I knew that already, and was prepared (as prepared as anyone is). Also need timing belt (which would be done), water pump and ideally my weepy diff gasket to be replaced. She is going to talk to the mechanics, get back to me tomorrow with their thoughts on the project and we'll go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Welcome to the rebuild club! If you're able to do most of the work, like pulling the motor out and reassemble it back you will save a shipload of money. I would personally have a machine shop rebuild the block and heads for safe measures. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Unfortunately no time to learn to pull the engine and do all that work. I am prepared to spend the $$$. Depending on what else is found - def have the block and heads rebuilt, otherwise short block coming up. I'll post back after I have more info. Then it will time for research and help on the build list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Going under the knife! HG and various other gaskets getting replaced, parts machined, timing belt, water pump replaced, OCV's replaced, IM bolt hole fixed. They'll let me know about the pistons and valves shortly, hopefully the $$$ doesn't turn into $$$$$$. Unfortunately they are backed up, so won't have the car back for a few weeks. After I get it back and test her out for a bit it will be time to get some other parts. New IC Silicon TB hose 5EAT VB hexmod Downpipe Another Tune Suspension RSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Added this to post #1 The mech pulled the heads, both are cracked! Advice on course of action at this point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 How much are you into with just the engine dissasembly? I would be temped to just buy a longblock from a builder, there are a few around. I got mine from Casey @ Boxer Motors (riderdude) Either that or just buy some used heads. Maybe Nasioc has some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 How much are you into with just the engine dissasembly? I would be temped to just buy a longblock from a builder, there are a few around. I got mine from Casey @ Boxer Motors (riderdude) Either that or just buy some used heads. Maybe Nasioc has some. Orig quote was at $2800. Now quoting $600 for each of the new heads and possibly more $$ from the machine shop. Around $4k - $4500 at this point. Just wondering what other potential damage could have happened and should be looked at. I looked at Nasioc and see cracked head galore on there, not sure if I want a used set from there. We all know how they drive those cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 Good news car is back and is running good - though I did order an AVO silicon TB hose as the other was loose as sh!t. Be here tomorrow. The other good news is Subaru is kicking down about 40% of the repair cost - parts only since the labor was at a non-dealer. Now to find a new TMIC to go along with my new TB hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Good news car is back and is running good - though I did order an AVO silicon TB hose as the other was loose as sh!t. Be here tomorrow. The other good news is Subaru is kicking down about 40% of the repair cost - parts only since the labor was at a non-dealer. Now to find a new TMIC to go along with my new TB hose. How did you pull that off? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 I took the car to the dealer since I was in a pinch to get this diagnosed, they failed on all accounts - didn't note anything about HG, they did note the valve covers were leaking (which they did a year prior) but didn't notify me. After pissing away that money I called Subaru Corp and told them exactly why I was not happy with their service and I had taken to an independent mech. I asked what could be done about this and the woman on the phone offered to look over the parts list and see if they would give some assistance with the cost. Of course she asked if they were all genuine Subaru parts, which they are. Ordered NOKYA H3 HYPER YELLOW FOGLIGHT FOG LIGHT BULBS. Projects this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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