Delakor Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Hey. My Turbo Legacy has a weird thing when I spool the turbo and wait for the power to push me in the seat, but no. I have to drive my car hard first, then it starts producing power. Like I have to drive it to 6000 rpm a couple of times, then it start producing power when the turbo just kicks in. Why so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Have you checked for boost leaks? Do you have a boost gauge installed? Any mods? Clean your MAF if you haven't already. I had horrible stuttering issues until I replaced mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delakor Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Have not checked for boost leaks no, but yes I have a boost gauge and it keeps a steady boost and is not dropping on boost. I cleaned out the MAF sensor, cleaned the entire air intake to a condition similar as new and changed the air filter... Still the same issue :-/ You don't think cleaning the boost solanoid would fix it? And one more thing. What are the sizes of the vacum lines diamiter? Is it a good idea to buy universal ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I have a similar issue, only on warm starts, and only sometimes. Right after I restart it, I get into boost a little and the car hesitates, feels like it doesn't want to go when I give it gas, my AFRs stay in the 15's and 16's, then all of a sudden it "catches", the AFR's suddenly go to where they should be for the boost level and the motor just takes off. It usually only does it that one time on almost every warm start, sometimes slightly worse than other. And then this issue is non-existent until I turn the car off and restart it again. I am suspecting that the IACV is staying open a little on those warm starts and when I get into boost it goes lean, then the IACV closes all the way and everything is fine. I haven't had a chance to clean the IACV yet but it's my next thing to do. MAF is good and clean, water temp sensor is new, BPV is working properly, throttle body is clean, and it runs perfectly with perfect AFR except for these random occurances on some warm starts. Cold idle surges a bit, which is why I think its IACV related. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delakor Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 I have a similar issue, only on warm starts, and only sometimes. Right after I restart it, I get into boost a little and the car hesitates, feels like it doesn't want to go when I give it gas, my AFRs stay in the 15's and 16's, then all of a sudden it "catches", the AFR's suddenly go to where they should be for the boost level and the motor just takes off. It usually only does it that one time on almost every warm start, sometimes slightly worse than other. And then this issue is non-existent until I turn the car off and restart it again. I am suspecting that the IACV is staying open a little on those warm starts and when I get into boost it goes lean, then the IACV closes all the way and everything is fine. I haven't had a chance to clean the IACV yet but it's my next thing to do. MAF is good and clean, water temp sensor is new, BPV is working properly, throttle body is clean, and it runs perfectly with perfect AFR except for these random occurances on some warm starts. Cold idle surges a bit, which is why I think its IACV related. Have you tried it yet? Cleaned everything in the intake, cleaned the boost solanoid and all the vacum hoses and made sure I had no boost leaks and bought new clamps and some new hoses... It worked for 5. Minutes, but now it's back to where I habe to really redline the car and drive it hard for it to boost properly, but the weird thing is that when it's on low boost and not the boost it should make the spool makes a choo sound... Like a train horn, but when it boosts normally the spool sound is much louder and the spool sound is a higher pitch. The boost preassure I get when it's lownon boost is like 0,45 BAR, and when full boost it's what a stock turbo should make.. Around 0,8-9 bar (13-14 psi) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delakor Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Okay... By changing the oil and letting the ECU reset for a good two hours.. I have full boost at all times now... Wtf, but anyhow.. I've bought a GFB MBC and I want to adjust the boost preassure 2-3 psi more, how much preassure can the stock internals on the ej20 closed deck withstand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 I have two, the oldest has about 100k, valve ticks on warmup and runs great. It came in the 89-93 JDM/AUS Liberty(legacY) RS. From my years of research, The early one has a lower compression ratio 8:1 and has been known to run 21-23psi(I maxed the stock vf10 at 18psi at 4500) with lots of turbo parts/engine management/tuning/qualityfuel. The earliest motors alledgedelY had forged pistons until Subaru started cutting cost. The later motor has 8.5:1 compression ratio and what I'm running now, I'm currently running 15 with my rotated mount gt30/44mm tial MVR and professional tuning of a standalone ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delakor Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 That's really cool "USLiberty", maybe I'll do something of the same, but I have one question now. While on boost is goes to max, but isn't holding it steady and drops. I know it's the factory BOV that's worn out and I want a aftermarket one, but not one that will vent all the boost in to atmosphere, but something similar to the factory unit that recurulates and such. What BOV's would fit on an EJ20? Not a straight fit, but something that fits well with maybe (blocking of one hose or something). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Are you sure the turbo is able to keep up with the boost? Factory turbos start dropping boost after about 4500-5000 RPMs. Even the vf10 at 5600ft elevation would hit 18 psi and drop off to 12. Hot days it would max 15 and drop to 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delakor Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Are you sure the turbo is able to keep up with the boost? Factory turbos start dropping boost after about 4500-5000 RPMs. Even the vf10 at 5600ft elevation would hit 18 psi and drop off to 12. Hot days it would max 15 and drop to 10. No, haven't taken that in mind.. But I've bought a manual boost controller from GFB (bleed valve). Is it a good idea to hook up now on my stock car and up the boost by some really small amount, like 1-2 psi more? Stock exhaust, intake, etc. And how do I hook it up? I know it should be connected in the vacum hose between the wastegate and such, but from my wastegate the vacum goes to the boost SOL. Does it do the same job if I hook it up there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 The MBC is a one way valve. The pressure needs to come frome the intake overcome the spring through the mbc then run to the wastegate. there's a few threads on Legacycentral.bbs on how to do it. Just use google "legacycentral.bbs MBC install" Also probably a few threads on here so just replace legcentral with legacygt.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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