Shoe Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 You helped me with my 97 legacy last week that had been flooded, now I could use some more advice on it. After I replaced the ECU that had been water damaged the car ran ok, and as I drove it more it ran better and better until it now runs as good as ever. Unfortunately after 15 miles or so the check engine light came back on, and the code was 0441, evap emissions incorrect purge flow. I cleared the codes, and they came back again after 15 or 20 miles. The charcoal canister and the vapor canister vent solenoid are in the back passenger side, and they were both under water for a few hours so I guess it could be either one of those, but I was also working around the intake checking the knock sensor so I might have knocked something up there loose, but I can't see anything. Any advice on where to start on this? I don't want to just start throwing $100 parts at it and see if it fixes it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 and the code was 0441, evap emissions incorrect purge flow.is the ECU the exact same part number? a 98 ECU will throw a phantom ''evap purge flow'' code in a 97 and vice versa. been there done that. a 96 will work in a 97. the ECU needs to match the wiring harness in the car, not the engine. i swapped an ej22 into a 98 outback that had been in salt water at the boat ramp. it would not start. i swapped in my 97 GT ecu, and it fired right up. but it threw an ''incorrect evap purge flow code.'' put in a 98 ECU and all is well 25k later. The charcoal canister and the vapor canister vent solenoid are in the back passenger side, and they were both under water for a few hours so I guess it could be either one of those, this sounds squirrely the 97 should have the canister up front in the engine bay, the 98 should have the canister in the rear, passenger side. what is 11th character in your VIN? V or W ? but it could be exactly as you say, 97 car, with rear canister. if so unplug the wiring connectors in the rear and claen them. corrosion may cause this. but i would have expected an ''circuit'' code, like ''evap circuit input low'' or the like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 Thanks again John. The old ECU was part # 22611 AD0 21 The new ECU is part # 22611 AC6 41 It was supposed to be out of a 96 Legacy. The 10th character in the vin is a "V" (the 11th is a 7) Everything says it is a 97, I've seen pictures with the canister up in the engine bay but I just have an empty spot there. I'm pretty sure that's it I see on the passenger side rear by the gas tank. So do you think I should try an ECU from a 98? I did unplug the solenoid and sprayed WD40 on both ends and let it dry. That was before the code returned last time. Does the fact that it takes a while for the code to return make any difference, or is the computer just waiting for several occurrences to light up a CEL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 So do you think I should try an ECU from a 98? yes. how much do they cost? if you put in some time at http://opposedforces.com/parts you may be able to identify which car used the 22611AD021. i would not be surprised to learn it was used in 98s. so i would do that before spending more money on an ECU. look up 98 computers and see if you can find your part number. then click on the part number, and then usage info, to see what cars it fits. or call the dealer parts counter and ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 OK I found the 22611AD021 on that site. They list seven different numbers for the selected model, but the one I bought on Ebay isn't on the list. I can't find any exact match 22611AD021 units except for a $250 reman. I have found a 226211AD050 for $50 on ebay and it is on the list showing the same run dates, just a different destination code. (U1 instead of C0, U0) What do you think of that one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 After looking further, it looks like that is a California #. does that eliminate it as a possibility? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 Hey I found an exact match on ebay for $79 so I'm going to get it. Most of the cars it lists as fitting are 96 models but it comes with a warranty so I can't lose too much. Thanks again for your time johnegg! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 was your ecu also used on the 98 cars? if yes, most any 98 ecu will work. have you looked at http://www.car-part.com ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 The opposed forces website shows dates from December 95 to July 97. I had checked on car-part.com and the two that I called about had been sold a long time ago and the websites just never got updated. I sure hope this one fixes the problem; I have several people who want to buy the car but I don't want to sell it until I'm sure it is all straightened out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 the ...AD021 ecu will certainly be the right one. i just hope it fixes the problem. have you searched p0441 on this site and others? you might learn a solution that is not ECU related. like corrosion on the wiring in the rear? maybe? just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 I hope this does it. The P0441 code doesn't seem to narrow the problem down that much. I checked the plug on the solenoid and it looked good, and I sprayed it with WD40 just to be sure. But since it was under water for a while I will probably start there if the ECU doesn't clear the code. And the vacuum hoses in the engine bay look pretty dried out so I will try replacing them also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 the wires in the rear go to a solenoid / purge valve. if you apply 12v it should activate. it may be worth checking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 I might try that while I'm waiting on the new ecu. How would I do it, just run a wire from the battery and touch the leads? How do I tell the + and - ends apart? And my hearing isn't the best; is it a fairly loud click or how do you tell that it activates? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to go in and fry anything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 i'm not sure how exactly. and you are smart to be careful. you do not want to create two problems while trying to fix one. you may be able to figure out which wires are which from a FSM wiring diagram, and a 9 volt smoke detector battery may be enough to trigger it. the lesser voltage will not cause a problem. but it may not be enough to trigger the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Well I've got about 40-50 miles on the new ECU with no codes. Either I had the wrong ecu for the car, or the charcoal canister finally cleared itself. Thanks for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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