urdrwho Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Last evening my car threw a 136 code. We've been having hurricane type rains, deep puddles, etc. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back but from past experience with lazy O2 sensors, it is their standard procedure. I am wondering if there is a problem with wiring or the O2 sensor itself? A quick easy test? On other cars I used to read output of the O2 sensor but not sure what voltage for the Subbie O2 sensor. I was very, very low on gas and maybe there was a burp in the engine firing from moisture in the gas. 97 Outback with a 95 2.2 transplant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 i'd wait until it comes back, then, checking the wiring is free, replacing the o2 will cost you. it should not affect driveability, all it is doing is checking to see if the cat is working. it does not control the fuel trims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks Yep -- I'll give it a wait and see. Annual inspection is due this month so of course a code appears. It needs to be run ready before an inspection so that code can't appear on the way for the inspection. i'd wait until it comes back, then, checking the wiring is free, replacing the o2 will cost you. it should not affect driveability, all it is doing is checking to see if the cat is working. it does not control the fuel trims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Still raining so I haven't had a chance to check any wiring. Took the car out trying to get it run ready. On a 1997 car, in PA you can only have 2 lights that are not run ready and I had three. The Cat / HRT / O2S. Ran the car about 6 miles and got a PO 136. Erase it and put cruise control on at 45 for the next 6 miles. No codes and not run ready. Got on the limited access road and ran at 60 MPH for 12 miles. The O2S run ready light went off and stayed off until I got home. Got home stopped the car. Started the car and had 4 lights not ready, at idle I soon only had three Cat/Hrt/O2s. Went for a short drive around the neighborhood and the O2S would not go off. I can't take it to get it inspected if the O2S light won't go off while sitting in the garage bay. Still no codes thrown. Which sensor is Bank 1 Sensor 2? Is it the front or rear one? Also this morning when I first started the car it threw a MAF code and wouldn't idle. Swapped out the MAF with a known good one. i'd wait until it comes back, then, checking the wiring is free, replacing the o2 will cost you. it should not affect driveability, all it is doing is checking to see if the cat is working. it does not control the fuel trims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Which sensor is Bank 1 Sensor 2? Is it the front or rear one? it is the rear sensor. the 95 - 99 cars only have 1 bank and 2 sensors. FYI: the bank 1 is always on the side of the engine with cylinder #1. in the case of subarus, the passenger side in the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks I'm guessing a 22 MM O2 socket would do the trick? Heck even a wrench can get in there but not too confident with only two sides on the nut. The thing is rusted very badly. it is the rear sensor. the 95 - 99 cars only have 1 bank and 2 sensors. FYI: the bank 1 is always on the side of the engine with cylinder #1. in the case of subarus, the passenger side in the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 i use a box end wrench. an open end will slip and round it off. disconnect the wire, or cut it if you are replacing it. feed the wire through the box end of the wrench seat it and remove. gentle taps may help. also, lost of penetrating oil, and a little exhaust heat may help. not so hot you burn yourself, but warm is better than cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Yep the box end wrench was considered but once I clipped the wires I would be committed to fixing before I could drive the car again. I once helped a guy remove a frozen O2 sensor on his Ford SUV and it was a nightmare. Used the torch to heat up and that didn't do it, finally after a lot of days of allow penetrant to soak in, heating different times, it came loose. I usually like to have the exhaust hot when removing the O2 on cars but sometimes the location of the O2 sensor makes it a delicate situation working around a hot exhaust. Within recent months (cold out when I did it) I swapped out the TPS with a newer one. I thought perhaps I didn't have it correctly positioned for the warm weather that now exists and it was enriching the fuel too much for the O2 to compensate. So I adjusted it to the mark that existed on the donor car. I've drive the car for days and mile, no code thrown. Someday I will pierce the TPS wires and set to the correct voltages. At the moment I can't remember the color of the two wires I need to pierce. i use a box end wrench. an open end will slip and round it off. disconnect the wire, or cut it if you are replacing it. feed the wire through the box end of the wrench seat it and remove. gentle taps may help. also, lost of penetrating oil, and a little exhaust heat may help. not so hot you burn yourself, but warm is better than cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 but once I clipped the wires I would be committed to fixing before I could drive the car again. true, but you do not have to cut the wire, just thread it through the box of the wrench . the connector fit just fine. the same is true for installing the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Ha! So if the connector fits through the box wrench hole, it is a workable set-up. true, but you do not have to cut the wire, just thread it through the box of the wrench . the connector fit just fine. the same is true for installing the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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