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I'm so stumped... If its not internal damage...read it, accept this challange

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So on my way out to Seattle, during the last 60 miles of I90. I hit a construction zone, during which I had to come to a crawl and I noticed...


Wow, this thing is really touchy, when I would coast, and then press the gas a little to roll some more, there was a delay and then a jump and just a rather unhealthy tone to the whole thing.


I did that for awhile until I was able to pull off and its almost dieing, its just barley idling. No CEL! Yet


So I turn it off, pop the hood, check the vitals and all that, all are great, no leaks, cool.


I start it back up, it kinda hunts for idle sometimes and there its just this vaccum leak sound from hell/ metal on metal scream that varies with loudness as rpms varies, but it's still has good throttle response. It also has these weird pops and pings Randomly coming from the intake manifold it sounds like, the Cobb AP was not registering knocking so my best guess is and still is the car is backfireing out the intake, so I'm like fuxk, my timing jumped, that's what all you are thinking also, so did I.


Now a CEL has popped up and it read something with the words like fuel, lean, and bank 1.



Soooooooo. Fuxk it, I'm in the mountains, I cant even fail 911, I'm inches away from moving traffic and a loose rock face wall. And I like living, so I drove it to Seattle... And I hit rush hour on the ******* dot, with a car that won't even idle for more then a second, its gotta be timing right...its runs near great when your cruise ing and it still spooled decent(only pushed it to 9 pounds) but made an interesting air noise when spooling.


I pull off for a couple hours, make a plan, and drive it to mutual friends place who is out to sea right now and I currently stealing his garage space.




Now I get some more codes, these codes only pop up while below 2000ish rpm.


Cyllinder 4 misfire, and a weird one, all it said was PFFFL or something like that.. I didn't care too much cause I was sure it was timing belt slip




What I has check and or replaced:


Triple checked the timing, it was sat, Iv done 4 timing jobs, one being on this 20k ago, don't even asked me to check again... But I'll check again after this post


Combed the engine bay for ANY hose, ANY plug, that was disconnected,


Pulled all spark plugs(have 10k on them, looked like spark plugs look... Plus, plugs don't just... go bad ... They just get old right? Either way I'll have new ones tomorrow,


I replaced the coil pack on number 4, and swamped the plugs from 2 and 4.


I have all new coil packs that I'm putting on now, if that don't work, all new plugs tomorrow, if that don't work, I'll look at injectors, if that dont work I'm taking an oil sample and calling a tow truck and its going to a shop,



Another interesting thing, I also pulled the plug on injector 4 and started it and nothing seemed to Change....



My step dad asked if it could be bad gas? Could it? My last stop was a Chevron in lake moses where I got 92 oct.. Tuned for 93, been adding booster when the rural towns in Montana and the Dakota's only had 89 or less. Is octane booster bad maybe?


Question, what sends the signal/power to the coil packs? Its there an ignitor on these newer cars like they had on the old 2nd gens.


Could the variable cam timing be messing up...



If anyone wants to come to port orchard tomorrow, message me and we will check this thing out...

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That don't explain why it still spools fine, and don't idle for shit.



Also, car has 123k on it. At 112 I went stage 3 with a new bnr 18g with ipt oil line.


Full list of mods are in the build page in my Sig. Read to get an understanding of what's done to the car, real basic stage 3 stuff.


My moneys on bad injector,(but it smells rich) bad fuel, leak on my tvg weld deletes or last case.. Internal.

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Maybe a bad injector? Low input code and no crank maybe your alternator went out? Armchair diagnosis. What is your battery testing at? Did you pull the downpipe to take just take a quick look at the turbo? If you need a shop there is AWDauto in Kirkland, PIA in Tacoma, or if desperate Infront Automotive in Auburn. Good luck wish I could help but I'm busy all weekend.
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Sounds like maybe check compression on #4, it is the famous cylinder. I have seen MAF and O2 sensors fail with no CEL at all. Infact I just fixed a car this last week that would not even idle it just died. Replaced o2 sensor, good as new now. Only thing that would kinda eliminate those items would be the #4 pulling plug and nothing happens.
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I had a horrendous idle issue and misfire. I tried the usual coil packs, plugs, etc but nothing worked. My mechanic swapped the oil control valves (OCVs) and cleaned them up well and this changed my whole car. It might be a long shot but its a very easy thing to target.


Best of luck.

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