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New to me Legacy L Wagon, some problems...


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So about a week ago,I picked up a supposedly rebuilt 97 Legacy L wagon. Motor and trans are supposed to have 25000 on it. It runs decent(I think,no experience prior with a flat four engine), and handles ok (needs struts I believe). On to the problems.

 

When I got it,it had a CEL on. I test drove it to a local O'Reilys,and had them scan it. It pulled up an emissions circuit fault code,a fan relay code,and a torque converter clutch lockup circuit code. We reset it,and it was fine up until two days ago when the CEL came back on.

 

Now,the car runs good up top,but feels a little weak on the bottom end. Also,when cruising around 65-70mph,the tach sits at 4000 rpm. This normal? When I left off the accelerator,the tach drops to idle as I'm coasting. Not sure if this is normal,or not. Lastly,my speedo is "jerky". When I come to a stop,it doesn't go all the way to zero,unless I turn the car off. Also,when going,it "skips"

 

All in all I love the car, but I'm about as clueless as a newborn in a topless bar when it comes to it. Please,help. Or point me in the right direction. Thanks

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Welcome to the site! :) A newborn knows to go for the titties so they aren't completely clueless.

Lol,yea,I guess so. The confusion part is it trying to figure out how to suck all of them lol. I'm about the same way with this car. I have a general idea of why the speedo works funny(vss sensor?),but I'm wondering if that also ties in with the whole weird feeling when driving. I also forgot to mention my cruise doesn't work. Or my foglights. Those I'm not too worried about,since I'm going to yank them and put in bright ass LED flood lights. Plans for the car are an SJR 6" lift,29's,a different roof rack, big led light bar up top,some more squares on the side,and plasti-dip it. Not sure of the color yet.

That is if nothing major is broken.

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my speedo in my 95 wagon did that for a long time. at some point i put some extra grounding and cleaned up the existing lines, and it has since stopped. when my alternator blew up, it happened again. it cold be a grounding issue, and that is much cheaper and easier to test than swapping a VSS.

 

the 4000 rpm thing makes sense if one of the old codes was a torque converter lock error, which could be keeping it from locking in "4th gear" when cruising at 65+. that would be a bad solenoid in there, probably not too difficult to change out. i had the same issue with my daughters civic, i found a replacement at a junkyard for 9 bucks and put it on myself.

 

the emissions code could be anything, you really need to write down the codes so you can find better info on them lol

 

as for the fan relay code, it would help to know which fan. either way, the problem will eventually show itself in force when the weather gets warm. if its a rad fan, the engine will run hot. if its an ac/ cabin fan, you will run hot.

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So I got the car to a local Subaru dealership (that was a mistake) thinking they had a better code reader that autozone and advanced auto parts. They claim they couldn't test it because the starter was going out. In a bid to try and save some money, I added another ground, and Sameer the one from the Trans to the firewall. Starts just fine . But the code that they did pull was p0740. So is it the solenoid in the trans? Or is it junk? I tried to trace the wiring to see if it was broke, but lost it.

 

Also, I found my speedo is off about 5mph,and when I get above 50,it's sticky. I have to pound the dash to get it to jump to the right meh, and then it sticks again when I'm slowing down. I'm inclined to believe the engine isn't rebuilt, due to the huge oily mess under the car. Then again, I can be mistaken. Like I said, I'm new to these cars. I do have a 2.5l with 250,000 miles on it I bought from a gentleman who knew what he was talking about that I want to put in my 67bug.it honestly looks better than my current engine.

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