Reloadit Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hmmm, I will do some googling on checking the timing and see if anyone has a video on the legacy and maybe I can check it pretty easy while I wait for my part and maybe send them back if I get it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I still think your should check your fuel pressure. Since you are throwing parts at it get a new coolant temp sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 I still think your should check your fuel pressure. Since you are throwing parts at it get a new coolant temp sensor. It was my plan to make this car completely reliable but it has been such a nightmare, mostly due to back luck and poor choices in mechanics. I will check the fuel pressure but isn't it likely I would still getting spark with poor fuel pressure? Will the coolant temp sensor effect spark? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 check the damn timing. 3 bolts for each side. my guess is the tensioner is weak and it has jumped time, one tooth at a time, and now you are so far off it will not start. or maybe the toothed idler is going bad and has created slack in the belt. or maybe, and this is probably more common than the 2 above causes, maybe when the belt was done last time the crank bolt was not torqued to 135 ft lb and has loosened, causing the crank sprocket to hammer on the crank key, thus causing it to rotate slightly on the crank, getting progressively worse, and throwing off the timing. who did the timing belt, how tight did they torque the crank bolt? of course i could be wrong. but i guarantee the actual problem is ALWAYS the last thing you check, so move the last thing to the front of the list. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 check the damn timing. 3 bolts for each side. my guess is the tensioner is weak and it has jumped time, one tooth at a time, and now you are so far off it will not start. or maybe the toothed idler is going bad and has created slack in the belt. or maybe, and this is probably more common than the 2 above causes, maybe when the belt was done last time the crank bolt was not torqued to 135 ft lb and has loosened, causing the crank sprocket to hammer on the crank key, thus causing it to rotate slightly on the crank, getting progressively worse, and throwing off the timing. who did the timing belt, how tight did they torque the crank bolt? of course i could be wrong. but i guarantee the actual problem is ALWAYS the last thing you check, so move the last thing to the front of the list. good luck. Will do. If the timing has jumped or moved and the car died while driving will it have messed up my valves? The first mechanic had the timing off when he put everything back together and blew the valves. I will check the timing before I open any of the new sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 If the timing has jumped or moved and the car died while driving will it have messed up my valves? The first mechanic had the timing off when he put everything back together and blew the valves. it all depends how far off. if the crank is 90* off as compared to the cams, yes, bent valves. what did the mechanic do wrong regarding timing?? or maybe, and this is probably more common than the 2 above causes, maybe when the belt was done last time the crank bolt was not torqued to 135 ft lb and has loosened, more common than the 2 above causes, especially if you have a crappy mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 it all depends how far off. if the crank is 90* off as compared to the cams, yes, bent valves. what did the mechanic do wrong regarding timing?? more common than the 2 above causes, especially if you have a crappy mechanic. Oh, I had a mechanic pretty addled on meth I believe. You know what they say, meth, not even once. It took him a year and half to get around to putting it all back together changing all the gaskets, new radiator, new timing belt, new water pump and such and all he said was when he put it together he had the timing off and blew the valves. I don't know how off it was. He didn't have the money to fix it right away and I didn't want to give him any more money either so I waited and then he got a job trucking and left me to find another mechanic who did rebuild the heads with new valves and put it back together where it ran for a little more than a month. It ran great and then it started running a little rough at idle and would die at stops but would start right back up again until it died while driving at 25 mph. Now it doesn't produce spark. I'm stuck at work 6 days a week and it is dark when I get off but that is changing. I have over 4K into this car and I don't know if it will ever be reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 no spark is a big deal. no spark on all 4? if it was all a timing issue it would spark at the wrong time. so before i buy parts i would be sure about the spark. no spark an all 4 sounds like a sensor issue. no spark on one or two sounds like an coil or igniter issue. and i would not be buying new parts when you are just guessing. buy a used crank sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 it all depends how far off. if the crank is 90* off as compared to the cams, yes, bent valves. what did the mechanic do wrong regarding timing?? more common than the 2 above causes, especially if you have a crappy mechanic. no spark is a big deal. no spark on all 4? if it was all a timing issue it would spark at the wrong time. so before i buy parts i would be sure about the spark. no spark an all 4 sounds like a sensor issue. no spark on one or two sounds like an coil or igniter issue. and i would not be buying new parts when you are just guessing. buy a used crank sensor. We did test the coil with a multimeter and it fell into perfect specs even checked it with a newer car and same specs as it. I didn't test the spark off of all four from the coil but I can. I already ordered the crank and cam sensors expect them any day now. Will replace the crank first and see if it starts then replace the cam and try again. We tested the igniter and it didn't test right within specs but my batter is also dead and we were jumping it to a truck so I am still suspicious of it. They seem to be about 20 bucks for used ones on ebay. I will check all four post on the coil to see if they all fail to spark, we assumed the coil is good because it test in the specs from a diagram shared here. I hope to get back on the project Sunday. Thanks for all your help. I look forward to putting this issue to rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 Changed the igniter/ignitor, cam sensor and crank sensor and still no spark. The coil is withing specs through testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 i just replaced a coil on a forester with ej25 that had spark on 3 cylinders but not number two. showed within spec, but when i pulled the wires while running there was no spark getting out of the number two port. never seen that before on a coil that shoots on two at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 I'm going to get my buddy back over and start testing everything and everything and see if I can't find the problem. Crazy. I wish I could just find a coil to try and then buy if it turns out to be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt98GT Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I'm having the same issues with my 98 pressure seems fine coming out of the fuel pump changed the filter... Put a new cat... 02 sensors... Cleaned the MAF... Cleaned the iacv... Cleaned the egr... I'll check the timing tomorrow but does anyone know where all the grounds are located cause when I scanned the codes I got 0102 or something for MAF I got misfire 1 and 3 I got a 0420 catalyst... A 0500 for speed sensor... And then 1507 and 1540 but I read somewhere that a lot of those codes are on the same ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I got 0102 or something for MAF - if the description has the word ''circuit'' in it, look for bad wires or connectors. there are 3 large connecotrs on the rear of the engine passenger side. check the pins inside. look for mouse damage, or corrosion. also check the connector at the maf, specifically where the harness wires enter the plastic connector. Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0102 I got a 0420 catalyst... it is not the cats, never change the cats, new suabru o2 sensors, yours are old. A 0500 for speed sensor... look for bad wires going to the speed snesor, passenger side rear of engine And then 1507 and 1540 but I read somewhere that a lot of those codes are on the same ground- this could also be wiring, look for bad wires / connectors passenger side rear of engine. could also be a vac line under the hood. ground wire are attached to the chassis at the rear of the engine bay, on the top of the fire wall near the hood, both sides. 3(?) black wires screwed down the fire wall each side. given the codes and there sensor locations i would look for a bad connector or a harness problem, mouse damage to the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 OK, replaced the Coil Pack, the Igniter, cam censor and the crank censor and still absolutely no spark.. Are there any fuel sensors that will interrupt spark? I hooked a wire to each prong off of the coil and held it close to the block, even touched the block and no spark, Can't I assume there should be plenty of spark. I could change the fuel pump but if I have no spark obviously they won't make a difference will? I'm kind of at a stand still now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 BUMP, still no spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 OK guys, solved the problem. After it has set for 7 months I had a mechanic come over after I charged the battery all night and it was about 45 degrees outside and he suggested I turn it over so he could see what it was doing and damned if it didn't fire right up and run. I drove it a half a mile, it died, turned over but had no more spark. Towed back home, cleaned the battery post and cables and put the charger back on it and 6 hours later if fired right up. Next morning fired it up and drove it thinking it would die again and it didn't. Drove it the next day to work and then it wouldn't start after work so I bought a new battery put it in and fired right up. Hasn't died since, going on a week and half driving it every day. Apparently just because the battery is good enough to turn the engine over strong and even tested to put out 12v it wasn't good enough to turn it over and give it spark at the same time. I am reporting the problem solves and want to make sure everyone knows that a less than perfect batter can fail to produce any spark at all. It now has a new coil, ignitor, cam sensor and crank sensor. If anyone wants a few used parts I have all these that are probably just fine just sitting in my car. Thanks guys for all your help and maybe this thread will help others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 keep an eye on the voltage of that new battery, especially if your replaced one wasnt that old. a new battery will last a month or two with a bad alternator or regulator. if it was draining to the point it would start but not maintain a charge long enough to spark, there may be another underlying issue with the charging system as well. im probably wrong, but its worth keeping an eye on for a while to make sure i am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 keep an eye on the voltage of that new battery, especially if your replaced one wasnt that old. a new battery will last a month or two with a bad alternator or regulator. if it was draining to the point it would start but not maintain a charge long enough to spark, there may be another underlying issue with the charging system as well. im probably wrong, but its worth keeping an eye on for a while to make sure i am. Thanks Twisty, I'm going to keep an eye on it. The batter before was put in by the mechanic who put it all back together, apparently the original battery was lost by the first mechanic. It was a spare. So far it is still running fine. Overheated once and was able to get about 4 cups of coolant 50/50 in it burping it. This has always been a problem and now I have a new water pump, radiator and thermostat. It over heated when I turned on the heater for the first time after the rebuild. Hoping there was just air in the heater core and that was the cause of the over heating. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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