Which one is a safer/better deal?

[kawaic9197]

Hey guys so I am in the market for a Legacy GT and would like your advice on which one you feel would be a better buy.

 

First one is a Black 05 GT Limited at 135,000 miles for $7,000

• 
  Stage 2 COB Map
  ACT STREET LIGHT WEIGHT FLYWHEEL
  ACT HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT (Clutch has 3k miles on it.)
  COBB ADJUSTABLE SHORT THROW SHIFTER
  COBB HARDENED RUBBER BUSHING KIT
  COBB WEIGHTED ANODIZED BLUE SHIFT KNOB
  INVIDIA CATLESS UP-PIPE
  INVIDIA CATLESS DOWN PIPE
  SPT SHORT RAM INTAKE WITH EXTRA CONE FILTER AND HEAT SHIELD
  GATES RACING BLUE BELT INSTALLED WITH ALL NEW TENSIONERS AND WATER PUMP INSTALLED
  COBB VERSION 2 ACCESS PORT
   
  MAINTIENCE:
   
  ALL WHEEL BEARINGS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  TURBO GASKETS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  TURBO OIL RETURN LINE HAS BEEN REPLACED
  BOTH FRONT LOWER BALL JOINTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  BOTH SIDE INNER TOE ROD ENDS REPLACED AND A 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT WAS PERFORMED
  TURBO INLET TUBE HAS BEEN REPLACED
  INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  RADIATOR WAS JUST REPLACED 1/30/15
  NEW INTERSTATE CAR BATTERY
  NEW STARTER
  

 

 

Second one is a White 06 Legacy GT Limited at 133,000 miles for $7,000

• 
  The turbocharger has been replaced as of 35K miles ago with a BNR stage 1,
  EVO 16G compressor wheel/TD05H turbine wheel (max-rated at 300 WHP) along with both OCV solenoids.
  I've also recently replaced the O2 sensors, front brakes, belts
   
  

 

First one

Pros - More maintenance done, manual

Cons - A lot of mods, Stage 2 already so I am assuming it has been beat on

 

Second one

Pro - Stock besides the turbo replacement

Cons - Less maintenance done and is a automatic

[gimpydingo]

Paging Tris.

 

The 1st, are you prepared to replace the short block?

 

Why was the turbo replaced on the 2nd?

[Jaybird2013]

:yeahthat:oh Boy, here we go!!

[gimpydingo]

Those are just two basic questions. Just wait for the slew of questions and comments coming. Or should I say comments and comments.

[MrTris]

Neither of those are a good deal. You don't want a turbocar over 100k.

[OBPLGT721]

Hey guys so I am in the market for a Legacy GT and would like your advice on which one you feel would be a better buy.

 

First one is a Black 05 GT Limited at 135,000 miles for $7,000

• 
  Stage 2 COB Map
  ACT STREET LIGHT WEIGHT FLYWHEEL
  ACT HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT (Clutch has 3k miles on it.)
  COBB ADJUSTABLE SHORT THROW SHIFTER
  COBB HARDENED RUBBER BUSHING KIT
  COBB WEIGHTED ANODIZED BLUE SHIFT KNOB
  INVIDIA CATLESS UP-PIPE
  INVIDIA CATLESS DOWN PIPE
  SPT SHORT RAM INTAKE WITH EXTRA CONE FILTER AND HEAT SHIELD
  GATES RACING BLUE BELT INSTALLED WITH ALL NEW TENSIONERS AND WATER PUMP INSTALLED
  COBB VERSION 2 ACCESS PORT
   
  MAINTIENCE:
   
  ALL WHEEL BEARINGS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  TURBO GASKETS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  TURBO OIL RETURN LINE HAS BEEN REPLACED
  BOTH FRONT LOWER BALL JOINTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  BOTH SIDE INNER TOE ROD ENDS REPLACED AND A 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT WAS PERFORMED
  TURBO INLET TUBE HAS BEEN REPLACED
  INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS HAVE BEEN REPLACED
  RADIATOR WAS JUST REPLACED 1/30/15
  NEW INTERSTATE CAR BATTERY
  NEW STARTER
  

 

 

Second one is a White 06 Legacy GT Limited at 133,000 miles for $7,000

• 
  The turbocharger has been replaced as of 35K miles ago with a BNR stage 1,
  EVO 16G compressor wheel/TD05H turbine wheel (max-rated at 300 WHP) along with both OCV solenoids.
  I've also recently replaced the O2 sensors, front brakes, belts
   
  

 

First one

Pros - More maintenance done, manual

Cons - A lot of mods, Stage 2 already so I am assuming it has been beat on

 

Second one

Pro - Stock besides the turbo replacement

Cons - Less maintenance done and is a automatic

 

I would personally avoid both of these.

 

My reasons are as follows:

 

- Black LGT: could have been possibly beaten on, & #ynansb

- White LGT: The turbo you described needs an upgraded fuel system along

with a tune…maintenance is a bit of a mystery .

 

My final thoughts: don't buy either one! They seem like a recipe for disaster. Save up some cash, and find a 5th gen lgt that has been taken care of. If you really want a 4th gen, find one where it's been really well taken care of. If it has a new motor, be sure the people who worked on it know how to work on Subarus! Aso, be prepared for some major repairs, and have a few grand for an emergency fund before even buying the car, whether it's a lgt or not. Because with these cars, you have to pay to play .

[gimpydingo]

And there it is... If you really want an LGT, just keep waiting and searching and praying.

[kawaic9197]

Thanks, I guess I will try to find a LGT with lower miles. The 2nd car's stock turbo apparently blew which I'm assuming was from oil starvation.

 

I don't think I've seen a LGT around my area with less than 100k

[gimpydingo]

Thanks, I guess I will try to find a LGT with lower miles. The 2nd car's stock turbo apparently blew which I'm assuming was from oil starvation.

 

I don't think I've seen a LGT around my area with less than 100k

 

I figured the 2nd blew, you DO NOT WANT THAT CAR.

 

May need to open your search area or see if a dealer can locate one for you. Long shot, but could happen.

 

At 100k you are going to be in maintenance hell, or heaven if you enjoy that type of stuff and have time and money.

 

I'm at 85k and am ready for what is to come. On the other hand my Mom's 04/05 Wrx Wagon is 150% stock and is at 127k. They don't have the money or time to fix that at the moment if anything goes. So I make sure and relay all the information from the forums to help them keep it running. They did buy it new, though. I haggled for hours on the price.

[GipsySpec.B]

Neither of those are a good deal. You don't want a turbocar over 100k.

 

Which is why I got mine at 90k :spin:

 

I'd say keep looking, I've seen a few LGTs with less mileage. Shouldn't be too hard as long as you're willing to travel a little.

[kawaic9197]

I figured the 2nd blew, you DO NOT WANT THAT CAR.

 

May need to open your search area or see if a dealer can locate one for you. Long shot, but could happen.

 

At 100k you are going to be in maintenance hell, or heaven if you enjoy that type of stuff and have time and money.

 

I'm at 85k and am ready for what is to come. On the other hand my Mom's 04/05 Wrx Wagon is 150% stock and is at 127k. They don't have the money or time to fix that at the moment if anything goes. So I make sure and relay all the information from the forums to help them keep it running. They did buy it new, though. I haggled for hours on the price.

 

A WRX Wagon is also one of the cars I am in the market for

[MrTris]

A WRX Wagon is also one of the cars I am in the market for

 

Be prepared to pay twice as much for a car that's been ridden twice as hard.

[gimpydingo]

Be prepared to pay twice as much for a car that's been ridden twice as hard.

 

 

This too. Typically the WRX and Sti are going to be driven hard by young'ns. If you can find an older, single owner, with decent miles you might be good, with some pre purchase inspections. My mom get's asked to sell her's quite frequently, it's blue so she wont' part with it, that's her logic.

[kawaic9197]

This Dealer has a Legacy GT with 72k mileage but based on the picture with the engine bay, it seems like it may have been modded at some point.

[MrTris]

This Dealer has a Legacy GT with 72k mileage but based on the picture with the engine bay, it seems like it may have been modded at some point.

 

Saw this either on here, or somewhere else -- not many LGTs with the BBS RKs. IIRC, seller wanted way too much.

 

Red turbo inlet was done because the stock one is shit. I wouldn't worry about that part.

[gimpydingo]

This Dealer has a Legacy GT with 72k mileage but based on the picture with the engine bay, it seems like it may have been modded at some point.

 

 

You looking for a 5EAT?

 

Getting closer. Why not check that one out.

[kawaic9197]

You looking for a 5EAT?

 

Getting closer. Why not check that one out.

 

I personally don't care whether it is 5EAT or Manual but I will be checking this one out.

[gimpydingo]

Copy/paste of a copy/paste, just so you are ready:

 

Have a pre-buy inspection done that Includes a Compression test. A good number of these cars are dumped off at smaller Dealerships right before the turbo, or engine, or both are about to grenade. Banjo bolts need to be inspected and the filters inside them need to be removed or replaced, Highly recommended to get the car off stock tune, and checking and changing the oil on these cars is must! No Mobil 1 synthetic EVER!!!

 

 

GOOD INFORMATION HERE FOR NEWBIES TO READ. #10 is the key to LGT Ownership Bliss...

*stolen from BarManBean's post...

A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+. I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input.

 

1. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)
   
   • Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 STI will fit your 05-09 LGT (though not all of these pipes will necessarily be catless)
     

[*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many)

[*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation

[*]Check/top off engine oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it)

• Do an oil analysis (i.e. Blackstone) once you settle on an oil/filter combination that works for you. Should confirm that you OCI is adequate.
  

[*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 5-7k miles...Alternatively, complete a full 5EAT DIY flush once every 30k miles--this may be easier since it's only once every couple of years for most people (DIY Flush info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...sh-197248.html.)

[*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard.

[*]Drain/refill differentials every 30k miles. For 5EATs this will include both the front and the rear differentials. For 5MTs this only applies to the rear differential (front differential shares fluid with the transmission).

[*]Replace timing belt, tensioners, water pump at or before 105k miles.

[*]Flush brake fluid every two years (at a minimum)

[*]Stop driving your car. :lol:

Other potential "trouble spots" that are not "reliability related":

 

1. Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespan
   
2. Inspect fuel lines for deterioration.
   
3. CV boot under downpipe, recommended to check regularly (i.e. during oil changes) for wear.
   
4. OEM LCA bushings known to tear; many aftermarket replacements available.
   
5. Replace swaybar endlinks with aftermarket parts to reduce "clunks" in the front end.
   
6. A new tune (pro, e-tune, AP) can help to prevent burned valves
   
7. Install guages for oil pressure/temp and boost to track any significant changes and diagnose problems as they arise.
   
8. Check wheel bearings prior to 100k miles / 8 yrs. Subaru will replace noisy bearings through these service intervals under warranty.
   

 

The list above was provided by BarManBean's by way of JmP's thread. There are a great bunch of guys on here with a wealth of knowledge pertaining to the LGT's. read up!

[kawaic9197]

Copy/paste of a copy/paste, just so you are ready:

 

Have a pre-buy inspection done that Includes a Compression test. A good number of these cars are dumped off at smaller Dealerships right before the turbo, or engine, or both are about to grenade. Banjo bolts need to be inspected and the filters inside them need to be removed or replaced, Highly recommended to get the car off stock tune, and checking and changing the oil on these cars is must! No Mobil 1 synthetic EVER!!!

 

 

GOOD INFORMATION HERE FOR NEWBIES TO READ. #10 is the key to LGT Ownership Bliss...

*stolen from BarManBean's post...

A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+. I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input.

 

1. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)
   
   • Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 STI will fit your 05-09 LGT (though not all of these pipes will necessarily be catless)
     

[*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many)

[*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation

[*]Check/top off engine oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it)

• Do an oil analysis (i.e. Blackstone) once you settle on an oil/filter combination that works for you. Should confirm that you OCI is adequate.
  

[*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 5-7k miles...Alternatively, complete a full 5EAT DIY flush once every 30k miles--this may be easier since it's only once every couple of years for most people (DIY Flush info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...sh-197248.html.)

[*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard.

[*]Drain/refill differentials every 30k miles. For 5EATs this will include both the front and the rear differentials. For 5MTs this only applies to the rear differential (front differential shares fluid with the transmission).

[*]Replace timing belt, tensioners, water pump at or before 105k miles.

[*]Flush brake fluid every two years (at a minimum)

[*]Stop driving your car. :lol:

Other potential "trouble spots" that are not "reliability related":

 

1. Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespan
   
2. Inspect fuel lines for deterioration.
   
3. CV boot under downpipe, recommended to check regularly (i.e. during oil changes) for wear.
   
4. OEM LCA bushings known to tear; many aftermarket replacements available.
   
5. Replace swaybar endlinks with aftermarket parts to reduce "clunks" in the front end.
   
6. A new tune (pro, e-tune, AP) can help to prevent burned valves
   
7. Install guages for oil pressure/temp and boost to track any significant changes and diagnose problems as they arise.
   
8. Check wheel bearings prior to 100k miles / 8 yrs. Subaru will replace noisy bearings through these service intervals under warranty.
   

 

The list above was provided by BarManBean's by way of JmP's thread. There are a great bunch of guys on here with a wealth of knowledge pertaining to the LGT's. read up!

 

 

Thanks, that was the first thing I read before I posted lol

[gimpydingo]

Thanks, that was the first thing I read before I posted lol

 

 

WHAT!?!?! You are the first to ever do that. I think Tris will have a heart attack.

[Jaybird2013]

OP try setting up an account at Cargurus.com, then fill in your criteria for the LGT that you are looking for. The search parameters can be expanded from your local area to the CONUS. You will receive email notifications when an LGT matching your criteria pops up.

I still get them (was tempted to dump my 05 for a 09 before I decided to have my 05 rebuilt). Here is an example( and not a good one) of one that I was notified about yesterday.

 

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d378&newsletterSubscription=1974852&zip=06468&sourceContext=requestedNewsletter-ContactDealerForm-locationSubject_false_14582332&newSince=1423026000000&sntEmlId=215735897&linkSectionId=sampleListings#listing=106433737

 

By further researching this particular LGT thru the dealer's website you'll see that it's got over a 100k and the previous owner went stage 2 at some point no es Bueno!