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Generic strut mount question!


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So, I'm somewhat puzzled as to what I am dealing with. I picked up another Legacy after destroying my 98 (:mad:). I swapped out the knuckle and strut assembly from my 98, and wanted to put it into my 97. For some reason or another, the 98 strut mount would NOT fit into the 97 body. The slots in the body of the engine bay for the strut mount just would not fit for the life of me. It seemed like the holes just weren't long enough. I say long because the holes are actually slots that allow just a little bit of play. After getting frustrated enough, I simply swapped the original mount out and it worked just fine.

 

After looking at various parts stores I cannot find a difference in strut mounts. Any idea what I'm dealing with? FYI, neither of these cars were air ride suspension. Both are Legacy Outback, 2.5L.

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i think you just had a problem lifting and fitting at the same time.

it can be difficult,

especially if the hub assembly is getting in the way while you try.

 

i install 98 outback struts in my 97 GT legacy, no problem.

well one small problem,

apparently i re-installed the same one i took out on the left rear.

it only took me a say or two to figure it out.

so i had to do it again.

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John, do you happen to know exactly how much taller the outback struts were (rear specifically)? My understanding is that they are basically identical to legacy struts, just a bit more on the bottom lifting the car a bit.

 

I ask because I am trying to figure out exactly how much more clearance I have for tires.

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i have read more than once, over 2 inches.

iirc,

frorster rears are 2.25 inches taller,

outback are 2.5 inches taller.

 

it may be 2 and 2.25 inches, respectively,

but in any case outbacks are about .25" taller than forester.

 

for reference,

the stock lego L tires have a 24.20 inch diameter,

the stock outbacks have a 26.30 diameter.

 

if you go much larger than that you will likely get a ticket for speeding.

you speedo will read slower than actual with larger tires.

in other words,

when the speedo says 70, you will be going closer to 76.

this assumes the speedo is accurate now.

usually they read faster than actual from the factory,

reducing the likely hood of a ticket.

if you have a GPS you can check your speedo.

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