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eNVe's LGT Road to Discovery


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I'll call you both out and say that neither of your opinions matter because the hood scoop is useless on our cars above 80mph.

 

 

 

Please elaborate how the scoop is useless above 80 mph? There is no vacuum created on the hood to dissuade air from the scoop. It is still pulling in air at any mph. In fact the higher the speed the more air volume you are pumping into the scoop.:rolleyes:

 

Good luck op. I would keep the car a daily driver. They are expensive to track. Lots of good info on this site. Looks like you have already started your research.

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Please elaborate how the scoop is useless above 80 mph? There is no vacuum created on the hood to dissuade air from the scoop. It is still pulling in air at any mph. In fact the higher the speed the more air volume you are pumping into the scoop.:rolleyes:

 

Good luck op. I would keep the car a daily driver. They are expensive to track. Lots of good info on this site. Looks like you have already started your research.

Of course there is air flowing through but it is useless for a top mount due to the amount of heat from the engine bay, and internal air Temps at that speed. You will most likely have a good amount of knock on a hot day running the car hard. Any tuner will tell you when they do a road tune, if you have a top mount they will have to increase the fuel on the top end to cool the chamber down. STis and wrxs have no problem because their scoops are either raised or are large enough for a small cow to fit through.

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I'll agree with you on the air coming into the scoop reaching a saturation point. I know on the smaller scoop 02-03 bugeye wrxs over 100mph would see an increase in boost pressure but I don't think that point is 80mph on the LGT. Still good for discussion. I wish there were more aftermarket hood scoop options for the fourth gen LGT.

 

Can we derail this poor new guys thread anymore?

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http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com

 

They're far from a shade tree mechanic. He's been building Subaru engines since 1990 and have quite a resume. Others have tried to copy them and now most in the southwest go to them. I don't understand why you would be arguing over a cover that is mostly aesthetic anyway.

Outfront builds dune buggies with subie engines. Dune buggies dont have engine covers.

They also build motors that are used in cars. I have one. It seized 15 minutes after first startup. I had to redo the machine work. Ymmv.

 

Engine cover works great with stock i/c as it helps seal the scoop to the i/c. If you upgrade to a quality i/c (procesd west) you'll get a custom mount that seals the scoop to the larger i/c at which point you have to remove the engine cover. Done this way, your i/c doesn't heat soak while idling and you can still lay waste to the hundah next to you.

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I appreciate the debate, but I'll do some more research and see what convinces me is right.

 

Anyway, back on topic.

 

Thank you for the welcomes! My plans for the car are to make it look stock while I upgrade it. I was rather disappointed that Grimmspeed discontinued their port, polish, and coating services. I'm going to do more parts research. I'm still deciding specifically what targets I am hoping to reach. It'll be my daily driver and track car. I've never tracked before, so I'll do some track days before making any final decisions.

 

Until then, I'm going to freshen up what's already on the car.

Track days and must mod my car first usually result in frustration. If you have never been to a track day, you should take your "stock" car and try it first. You'll discover you suck at going fast. If you're smart youll improve your driving skills first. If you're typical, you'll mod your car.

 

My sig has my experiences. if you want some help with making a track worthy car, let me know.

 

For the "scoop doesn't work over 80" poster, scoop with stock engine cover works at 145. Scoop with pw i/c works at 160

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The intercooler efficiency increases the more speed the vehicle has, to say no air is running in the hood scoop and hitting the top Mount is nonsense.

 

There are two different air pressures as the air passes over and under the vehicle. This acts in a compressive manner, compressing the air over the surface of the vehicle increaseing the air flow through the scoop. The more speed the higher the compressing becomes.

 

A hood scoop with a front mount kills its efficiency.

 

Sgt. Gators thread discussed this.

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And FWIW, if your running a stock tmic, do not do away with the engine cover, it seals the tmic to the splitter under the scoop, it is there to increase the efficiency of the tmic.

 

And for the op, unless you can measure pressure drop through your tmic you won't be making an educated or wise decision

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Can we derail this poor new guys thread anymore?

 

:icon_cry: *sniff* And all I wanted to do was to show off my car. :cool:

 

If you have never been to a track day, you should take your "stock" car and try it first. You'll discover you suck at going fast. If you're smart youll improve your driving skills first.

Which is why I said I wanted to go to some track days before making any decisions on mods. ;) If I end up doing any mods before then, it'll likely be due to necessity (i.e., something breaks and/or needs replacing). I am looking for reliability and consistancy with any mods that I do. This car is my daily driver when I don't ride my motorcycle to work, and I can't afford to have my car decide not to work because of a poorly thought out modification.

 

As far as working on driver skills, I find that I still make the car lurch when I shift in the lower gears, and I treat the clutch as if it were the same as my motorcycle's. I'm trying to break that habit. It's been a while since I've last owned a car with a manual.

 

My sig has my experiences. if you want some help with making a track worthy car, let me know.

Thanks for the offer! I will keep it in mind. Right now, it appears that the track season is pretty much over in my region. It'll probably be spring before I get to track the car. Until then, I'll just read up and practice my road skills. :)

 

And for the op, unless you can measure pressure drop through your tmic you won't be making an educated or wise decision

Sounds like a challenge. I'll see what I can do. ;)

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Track days and must mod my car first usually result in frustration. If you have never been to a track day, you should take your "stock" car and try it first. You'll discover you suck at going fast. If you're smart youll improve your driving skills first. If you're typical, you'll mod your car.

 

My sig has my experiences. if you want some help with making a track worthy car, let me know.

 

For the "scoop doesn't work over 80" poster, scoop with stock engine cover works at 145. Scoop with pw i/c works at 160

How does the scoop work less with a different intercooler? the scoop size doesn't change and will bring in the same amount of air no matter what is under the hood. I'm referring to the aerodynamics of the hood channels and design of the scoop.

 

as for tuning you could say it still works in reference to pressure in the manifold. As far as air flow... the lgt scoop is the least flowing especially at higher speeds

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the pw i/c uses a different sealing mechanism which opens/straightens the path of air thru the scoop. The speed differential has more to due with removing the speed limiter of the stock tune than anything else.

 

As for whether it is ineffectual, I did a direct test. dyno vs real world. 3rd gear on the dyno vs 3rd gear on the track (measured with gps). 3rd gear is good for ~94mph. On the dyno, we used 3 fans (all high cfm) to get airflow to the air intake, radiator, and i/c. To get best results, we tied bags of ice to the i/c for entire duration of dyno runs. Even then, we couldnt get it cool enough.

On the track, it pulled better at the high end of the rpm range than it did lower down. The only reason I had the ecm cut set to 6800 was engine longevity. It was built (the second time) for 8k rpm. In tuning it ran to 7500. I never had it tested higher, because it made way more power than needed. On the dyno, it was tuned down from 369tq to 335tq.

 

However, at this point, either you put up creds matching bac2.5 or get some solid evidence to back your wild-ass postulation. mmh-kay?

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