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Ok this applies to all those who have a 2.5i with 4eat. Notice in your manual it tells you to insert spare a fuse (any fuse, doesn't matter what its rated at) into the "FWD port" if you are riding on the spare donut. It completely converts the car to front only. I did this today and surprisingly found the car to be noticebly quicker.. didn't handle as well as throttle in corners would obviously cuase understeer.. but there was definatly not as much power being sapped becuase of awd. I figured that since the normal bias is 90 front 10 rear that doing this wouldn't completly f up the awd system. Anyways, try it at your own risk.. but this did make my car a little quicker for free. Just open the fuse box in the engine bay and find the FWD port, use any color spare fuse.
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dont know what thats supposed to mean, am i about to be hung?

 

All im saying is it felt like my car had a little less drivetrain loss when i put the fwd fuse in, although it made it handle (obviously) like any other fwd car. Got this idea from a 2.5rs forum. The manual says basically that this ONLY works on this type of car.. "non turbo and non 3.0 liter" and "non manual shifting" is how the owners manual put it.

 

nasioc "also with gas 3 bucks a gallon, and with no snow on the ground, awd makes me feel retarded..."

 

 

edit, not to mention my car doesn't have enough power for awd to prevent traction loss... unless im on icy gravy with oil all over it, plus vaseline.

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I'd like to hear someone who actually owns a car capable of doing this chime in and tell me if you feel a difference... If the parts were still moving, why would they suggest doing this if you have a spare on, it wouldn't make a difference. I'm sure the drivetrain loss is still there, its just not as bad. And jedimaster, you caught me... im so embarassed, how else am i to warm my tires at the strip before unleashing my 166 ft lbs of fury on the track... (joke)
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it's not really fwd. If the stock ratio was 70/30 front to rear and then it can lock up to 50/50 or whatever, when you do this trick, it prevents it from locking up and overheating.

 

So, you're never gonna get fwd out of an awd vehicle....unless you drop a drive axle or something.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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I guess my point is... If you wanted a quick car you shoulda' saved about 10k and gotten a FWD car. AWD is good at ALL times..this isn't a 4x4 truck we're talking about here..I guess, it seems to me to totaly defeat the perpose and resoning behind getting an AWD car if you're just going to yank the fuze and drive it around FWD.. snow or no.
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I might go to the strip and try a run with the stock honda's (probabaly like a 19 sec, lol) with fwd, and then with awd just to see if it really does make a difference. It could be that it just feels faster becuase the steerings gets sloppy as hell. I totally understand now after thinking about it that there shoudln't be a difference. Changing it to fwd is basically like removing the prop shaft, open diff (in my case), and rear halfshafts, but putting 400 lb wheels and tires on the back. Im sure you can all tell im dissapointed i got a 2.5i let alone a 4eat.... may build a ffr gtm in december though.
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I wouldn't be surprise if Mazda's AWD was based on the Haldex. Ford owns Mazda and Volvo. The Mazda 3, Volvo S40, and Ford Focus all share the same platform, and S40 is available with AWD. The Ford five hundred is based on the Volvo S80. So it would make sense to use the same Haldex units found in the Volvo's.
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