diesel2wd Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 somehow this thread got taken way off topic..... anyway i picked up that 95 legacy wagon today, drove it home, on the way stopped at autozone and grabbed that knock sensor, some castrol gtx high mileage, some dex 6 atf and lucas oil and trans additive bottles, poured some seafoam into the gas tank and the oil and drove it around for a while to let it do its thing got it home changed out the oil and added the lucas, and drained 3+/- qts of the old nasty atf and added the new fluid and a bottle of the lucas trans stop slip (man is that some thick stuff). changed the knock sensor and the CEl went off. it seems to be running real good, the 1-2 shift is a little bit hard but not bad at all. over the next few weeks I will do some more small things to it, valve cover gaskets etc, it already has new plugs and wires thinking about the neon coil conversion and other small stuff like that once I can get some new wheels for it its on one spare right now and I really don't want it on there even more off topic, where are you? what size tires are on the steelies? good condition? if they don't fir the wrx wheels, would you part with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 i use the advance auto house brand, dex 3 or better. same for the power steering pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 you do not need the lucas stuff. i do not recommend any additives for the trans. it should not hurt it but you gain nothing. more importantly , you only changed about 1/3 of the fluid. the trans holds over 10 qts. do the drain and fill 2 more times with driving in between and you will have replaced most of it. clean fluid is much more important than an additive. all 90 - 99 subarus have a hard 1-2 shift. they sacrifice comfort for durability. and they are amazingly durable if you keep the fluid fresh. do a drain and fill at least once a year when you change your oil. only reason I added the lucas is because it is supposed to help condition the bands and keep them in good shape longer, and im totally fine with a hard shift to keep it reliable longer. yeah I was told I should do it about a third at a time to cycle the new fluid through the tranny, will be dropping the tranny pan next time I do a fluid change and making sure there isn't anything In the pan. diesel2wd yes there is a drain bolt just like in the oil pan same type of 17mm bolt actually. then you refill it thru the tranny dip stick hole which is easiest with a long narrow funnel. I used some autozone brand dex 6, dip stick says dex 2 but was told dex 2 became dex 6 so I went with that. and I am in Vancouver WA, the steelies have 185/70r14 I think, have to look again. but you don't want them they are unevenly worn the two that were on the back looked pretty good the one on the front has a lot less tread than the rears and is a different tire, and the other front was a spare. had to rotate the two rears up front and put the donut on the back and pull the fwd fuse so I didn't toast the tranny with the mismatched tires... really concerned that the guy knew nothing about awd cars.... don't even have the fourth wheel gotta pick it up when I get off work. and another REALLY irritating thing, within about 30 miles of driving I noticed the temp starting to rise so I pulled over to have a look at it and noticed a decent amount of coolant dripping, at first I thought it was from the tstat housing or that hose clamp but I squeezed the hose and it started dripping out of the timing cover and down so im pretty sure my water pump is shot or the gasket is so when I get done with the other job in the morning I will be tearing into it to get the pump out and replace it.. really not happy with the dude that sold me this car and im sure he knew and is now hiding from me cuz I hit him up about getting that wheel and he said he would leave it outside his garage and to come get it.. doesn't wanna be face to face... hopefully I can get the water pump knocked out tomorrow because I was planning to head to the beach on sunday and go screw around in the sand down in Gearhart, OR anyway this was a decent sized novel so I will call it a night and will get back on tomorrow when I get done working on the water pump replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 ugh.... that wheel is trashed. looks like he slammed into a curb at 35, the wheel is bent and the tire had a 4" gash in it. that explains why it feels like my alignment is off... looks like I need to find another steelie and a set of tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Where I live subaru didn't really catch on besides the boy racers with wrx or sti's, but as far as the legacy goes not many at all. I live in the desert so I wonder why subaru isn't a popular car out here. Wierd. How off am I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 in a desert I wouldn't see subarus as being the ideal rig, a small truck would seem a better choice anyway, going on no sleep I finally got the water pump changed, I was being a knob and didn't set the engine to tdc on #1 so I was fighting the cams to keep them where I made my mark while I was getting the belt back on and dear god did that suck!! i messed up my iacv when i pulled it off to get to the inspection cover in the top of the trans. could have been the spray of wd40 in there to help loosen up the nastiness in there. the CEL did go off after a bit but when it came on i went and had a diagnostic run and it said idle air circuit and my idle was high so something isn't right but im sure i hooked all the lines back up right anyway still on the hunt for another steel wheel at the least for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 read these: > TIMING BELT ARTICLES < > Timing Belt Pictures < subaru sets the timing up differently than any other car maker. i'm not sure why but they do. and if you do it their way it is EASY. all pistons are at mid-stroke and the passenger side cam is at rest. the driver side is loaded, but it will sit where it needs to be. if it will not stay in place, it is not in the right place. marking everything before you take it apart is a good step to get it back right, but it is way easier if you do it their way. why did you change the water pump? was it leaking? did you also change the timing belt? how many miles? the belt is due every 60k miles. and it is usually the toothed idler that fails, not the belt. folks usually change the belt, but lots of folks do not spend the money to change the idlers. then when they fail they are stranded, or worse for an interference engine. but if it is a 93 ej22, then it is a non-interference engine so no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 this one isn't the 93 sedan we have one my gfs sister drives I made the account with (hence the name) but i was doing this on my 95 wagon. I didn't change the timing belt or idlers but they are on my asap list, the belt seemed in good shape, and the idler I pulled seemed good. but as soon as I can im pulling it apart and changing the belt and idlers. thank god I marked the cam positions with a sharpie because as soon as I released the tensioner it spun back a bit. was a huge pain to get it back and hold it while I ran the belt, took a second set of hands to keep everything straight got it just right tho. anyway I had to replace the pump because it was leaking really bad. car is fairly high mileage at about 223k not sure how many are on the belt and idlers etc... but they are getting replaced asap just had to do it so I could still use the car for now. I need to replace that one wheel and get a set of tires that all match. im in fwd right now because only two tires matched and were worn evenly. thanks for the links man I will need that the next time I do it cuz fighting that cam sucked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 been doing some research, and not happening soon but whenever this engine decides to throw up some internals I may just have to go to picknpull and grab myself a ej25 shortblock and slap these heads on it... could use the high comp to lug this wagon around. and also read about the wrx strut swap, would be nice to drop it an inch... don't know about going as far as the Tribeca front and whiteline rear sway bar but it may end up having to happen.. will see what happens when I get around to it but I have a bad habit of throwing WAY too much money at my vehicle my luv is a prime example lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 in a desert I wouldn't see subarus as being the ideal rig, a small truck would seem a better choice im in the desert as well, mesa, az. home of the crazies. awd in the sand, mud and trails is a good thing. small 4wd truck is not much more useful, and has less cargo room i would think. so far ive missed every decent storm here, so i havent had a chance to get my GT in the mud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 my brother lives down there too said when it does rain the few times a year it gets really wild. im up in WA so I see rain much more than a full day of sun im sure mine will see plenty of it. and I agree on the cargo space im pretty confident I could blow up my air mattress in the back of my wagon. I guess it depends on the terrain I use my truck for most stuff that has anything rocky, but im taking the subie to the beach to go play in the sand so I guess it depends.. been trying to figure out the front bumper, I want to put some fog lights in the bumper where the two panels are and pretty much where the outback has them, gotta clean up my headlights they are pretty foggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 will post up some pics of the car as it sits tomorrow keep forgetting to take some and it isn't much to look at anyway. so looks like I found a set of four stock steelies for real cheap. and I figured out I have a set of snow tires sitting back at my moms I forgot about. they are a bit smaller diameter and a bit wider than the tires I have on now. my current ones are 185/70r14 and these other ones are 195/60r14 so they come out 1" smaller diameter (@60 indicated I will be doing 57.5) and .4" wider. not totally ideal but the tread is like new and they all match, plus the aggressive tread pattern will be nice in the sand until I get a new set of tires. would like to get the trans out of FWD mode so I need matching tires. just doing the misc tlc right now, needs those matching tires put on, gotta clean up the foggy headlight lenses and install new bulbs, new taillight housing, mine is broken on driver side where the dent in the body is. a pick n pull run is probably in my near future. also need to install a stereo deck its all wired up just no deck installed and driving in silence gets old fast. any one know of a misc switch that fits the blank button holes on the dash like the cruise control button? would be nice to rig up fog lights to one of them to look more factory. getting there just need to wait on pay checks and hope I have enough to get the necessary stuff done, going for tags and plates tomorrow had to get ahold of the sellers sister because there was a missed signature box on the title, big shock I know lol... so now I can finally get it registered and drive it legally. I have done a bit of reading and nobody seemed to have a definite cause but I have noticed under hard acceleration like near floored I hear a whistling/squealing sound I thought it was a belt but my belts are all good. from what I read it isn't belt related, isn't trans related and nobody is quite sure what it is maybe the pcv seeing a lot of flow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 under hard acceleration like near floored I hear a whistling/squealing sound things to check: exhaust leak at the donut gasket behind the cat before the long mid-pipe. there are spring bolts and a donut gasket holding the exhaust together. the joint rusts and the gaskets ages. it can work ok at lower pressures, but leaks at higher. one solution is to weld in a piece of straight pipe, or a piece of flex pipe, will cost more. either one will work and both are used often. heat shield rattle on the y-pipe or cats, but this is usually more when sitting at a light or just taking off. stainless steel pipe clams can tighten then back up. or possibly in air intake leak, the air filter box is not seated correctly. this will whistle a bit. but not likely loud enough to hear at hard acceleration. just re-seat the air box ad you are good. each of these will cause noise, depending on how much noise and when will give you a clue as to which is yours. i think i have listed them is most likely order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 it sounds almost like a belt squeal but not quite no exhaust leak I can find, when I get the chance im going to redo parts of the exhaust to make it flow more smoothly isn't a rattly shield cant find a leak and the air box is sealed up good the one thing I found about it online said he replaced the alt, timing set, removed the belts and drove it and it still happened, replaced the trans friction discs. he said he took the car up to 110mph or so and after that the noise got much quieter so either something that was blocking a valve or was in the intake causing a whistle got blown out. maybe its the pcv valve blowing out a bunch of pressure? it sounds like a belt squeak but a bit less loud but still very noticeable when floored Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 been doing a lot of searching on my free time and a 2.5/2.2 hybrid sounds like a heck of a fun combo.. 2.5L with 11.3 comp ratio would be a fun thing to listen to with a decent exhaust too... just need to come across a 2.5 short block for the right price, if I can find one at picknpull its gonna be mine real fast. probably something that should be tuned for but as far as I have read the stock electronics are able to run it on 89 octane or better without excessive knock for now ordering some headlight bulbs, cleaning up the lenses and need to get a new taillight lens. grabbing those other wheels Friday and getting those snow tires mounted up so I can get back to awd. need to start looking into pulling out this big dent in the driver quarter panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 ok, so it is not an exhaust leak. did you check for an exhaust leak at 6000 rpm. because i think you said it did not make the noise at low rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 it isnt even totally rpm dependent it is only under high load like going from 0-35 floored. I can accelerate normally up to speed as long as it isn't heavy on the gas I can get it up to higher rpm without the sound at all I only ever hear it when im really trying to get moving fast at 7/8 to full throttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 well here are a couple pics of it its as stock as it can be, really foggy lights will be giving them the ol toothpaste and a sock treatment like I did the 93, will be picking up a benchtop grinder/buffer soon so I can really polish up all the lights later http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/IMG_20140723_195842_zps9f8f79da.jpg pretty straight other than this big ol honkin dent in the driver side quarter panel http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/IMG_20140723_192442_zps607f98e3.jpg took a few pics of it and send them to a couple body shops to see how much it would be to get it straightened out, if its too outrageous I can do it with a slide hammer a grinder and some time but would rather just have it done right and quickly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erickrocks1126 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 well here are a couple pics of it its as stock as it can be, really foggy lights will be giving them the ol toothpaste and a sock treatment like I did the 93, will be picking up a benchtop grinder/buffer soon so I can really polish up all the lights later http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/IMG_20140723_195842_zps9f8f79da.jpg To clear my lights, I used the Sylvania headlight kit. It was top rated on Consumer Reports and comes with a UV sealant so that after buffing, the lights don't cloud over again. Great kit, but pricey compared to others (but I think that's because of the sealant that it comes with...others don't have that). Anecdotally, my neighbor cleared his lights with some compound but didn't seal them afterwards...looked great for a few months, and now they're clouded over again. Mine are still clear as ever a year later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 it isnt even totally rpm dependent it is only under high load like going from 0-35 floored. I can accelerate normally up to speed as long as it isn't heavy on the gas I can get it up to higher rpm without the sound at all I only ever hear it when im really trying to get moving fast at 7/8 to full throttle This is identical to what I am experiencing with mine. I was unable to locate the source and decided to abandon my search for the cause as other stated there's had been doing so for years without issue. Given the squeal only occurs when the vehicle is drive I had to conclude it's something drive train related. To clear my lights, I used the Sylvania headlight kit. It was top rated on Consumer Reports and comes with a UV sealant so that after buffing, the lights don't cloud over again. Great kit, but pricey compared to others (but I think that's because of the sealant that it comes with...others don't have that). Anecdotally, my neighbor cleared his lights with some compound but didn't seal them afterwards...looked great for a few months, and now they're clouded over again. Mine are still clear as ever a year later! See this thread for a great write up on cleaning up the headlights. I used this procedure last year and my headlights are looking as good today as when I cleaned them: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/headlight-restoration-guide-201687.html?&highlight=headlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 yeah the noise doesn't seem to harm anything but I have no idea what it may be, my trans is in fwd and did it in awd to it isn't transfer related. could be inside the trans but I just don't know. the toothpaste and sock method does alright but doesn't seal anything will do it for now anyway im flat ass broke cant afford anything extra right now I may do it that way later on when I have some spending money. really looking forward to hitting the headlights and taillights up with the buffer and make them really shine, nothing like fresh buffed clear plastic looks like I need a driver side cv axle so will probably just knock out both the front axles and the front struts while I have it apart. there is still a decent amount of wear items to replace like that. working down the list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 So I have to ask...wouldn't it have been more cost effective to just buy one which didn't need so much work? Or are you "financing" it through repair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 I figure by buying it cheap and needing work I will end up saving money over buying one in better shape because before long I would need to do the same stuff to a more expensive one anyway miles are miles, this one was just needing more up front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 That's an interesting approach. After a recent repair on mine I felt the opposite...given the repairs and maintenance I've done to mine I feel I could have taken the acquisition price plus maintenance / repair costs and bought a later model, lower mileage, better condition car. Of course that would have defeated the reason for buying the car (I bought it as a utility vehicle...my "nice" car is my X5) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 yeah i have my "toy" which is my built 4.3 swapped chevy luv, this is the family wagon gonna be having a baby soon so gotta have a practical family vehicle with some space that isn't loud enough to wake the neighborhood or the baby and gets a little better mileage it made sense that since I dont have a lot of money to put into the initial cost of another car (and despise used car dealers) but I can afford to and am able to do the work just few parts at a time on a car that needed a bit of work it seemed the best way to go, the newer car you get the more crap there is to go wrong with it and the more expensive each problem gets, plus the ability to kind of lego together Subaru parts gives some fun options for later. but as it sits now it daily drives just fine, getting those wheels today so I can put it back into awd, then just needs an alignment and at least a cv axle boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.