xdeadeye1 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Hi guys, New Subaru owner.. 96 legacy wagon 2.2,, I bought for just running around in,, and winter driving. Fixinig it up. I know about cv joints going bad ... Just wanted to see if there was anything else of interest regarding my problem When I turn left and or right and use the accelerator.. the car clunks or thumps.. so I was intending on replacing the front CV joints/axles. Rockauto seems best priced. I checked the tranny fluid and the front differential. both were fine. Is there anything else I should have my eye on ? My plan was to to the cv joints and the ball joints and tie rod ends all at the same time.. I don't see any grease or anytingn inside the wheels.. lots of oil leaks.. but,,, Which is another thing,, I replaced the valve cover gaskets but something is leaking up front and smoking on the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 don't get cheapy shafts if you plan to drive around corners more than quarter throttle. ive gone through 3 drivers side shafts that were cheapies, buy an OEM one, no problems, btw, 185k on passenger side, FACTORY. as long as the boots don't tear, the factory ones never wear out. as far as other clunking, I'd do steering rack bushings FIRST, then sway bar bushings, and check the control arm bushings, in that order. leaking oil on exhaust, my cams seals leak, then run down behind timing cover, along the bottom of cylinder head to manifold. yours could be doing the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 as far as other clunking, I'd do steering rack bushings FIRST, then sway bar bushings, and check the control arm bushings, in that order. Do you think it could be these bushings ,, BEFORE it could be the CV joint? Because the CV joint/axles look fine. I think I may just need to get it up on jacks , get on my back and have a good look around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 after reading forums and issues.. others have had.. I have come to the conclusion that it is torque lock. I put the 10 amp fuse in FWD. And drove around in circles in a parking lot. The problem disappeared. I found this thread on the subject. But im confused. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/duty-c-solenoid-clutch-pack-failure-173458.html After putting the fuse in the FWD, I started the car. AT fluid temp light flashed,, not sure how many,, but I saw it, and I normally do not. Also the FWD light was lit on the dash. So now im pretty sure my problem is not a CV joint/axle. But I think my problem MIGHT BE the duty C Solenoid. I am going to try tranny fluid / filter change. However, if this should fail to fix the problem,, How hard is it to change this duty c solenoid? can I do it on jack stands working under the car? Or am I reading this all wrong and the problem is not my Duty C solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 never heard of said solenoid so I don't know. getting weight off tires can show a bunch of possible issues. with tires in air, use smallish pry bar under tire and lift, no jiggle is good. check tie rod ends, check for broken springs, space between sway bar and bushings, etc. once in awhile if you break a spring or the strut bearing is bad, it will clunk around in the top pocket. have a look at your spring while in the air, while you have someone turn the wheel. if the top of the spring doesn't turn but bottom does, it'll clunk and "twang" around. bunch of issues it could be... read the thread duty c solenoid or clutch pack failure. good info in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 torque bind is caused by the transfer clutch not ''slipping'' when in tight turns, as it was designed to. there are several possible causes of this ''not slipping''. if the FWD fuse eliminates the problem, the duty c is working. if the FWD light comes on the duty c is working. try changing the ATF. dirty fluid or a gummed up valve body can cause problems, binding. new clean fulid can help. this seems especially true for 95 - 99, less so for 00+ . you can pay a shop to flush the fluid for a price, 100$ - 125$, or so. but some folks worry that this can cause the dirt to move around and cause other problems. or you can do a drain and fill three times or more with driving in between to mix the fluid. it may take some time for the binding to go away completely. try it. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Thank you very much johnegg! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 replaced Tranny fluid with the Castrol Dex/merc. Replaced differential fluids in front and rear. Pretty much totally solved the torque bind issue all together. It has high miles,, Tranny fluid has been changed at some point as shown by the absence of a gasket and that orange gasket in a tube in its place. But I doubt it had been done in last 100k miles. Im happy. Thanks Johnegg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 replaced Tranny fluid with the Castrol Dex/merc. Replaced differential fluids in front and rear. to be clear, the diff fluid change had nothing to do with the fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 to be clear, the diff fluid change had nothing to do with the fix. I understand. I just know it had never been done.. and wanted to knock it out at the same time. The difference in before and after is HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Super clunky to I hear and feel nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sylvester Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I understand. I just know it had never been done.. and wanted to knock it out at the same time. The difference in before and after is HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Super clunky to I hear and feel nothing. Which ATF fluid did you use? I want to tackle this in the next week (possibly this weekend). Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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