Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

1997 Valve adjustments - pull engine????


Recommended Posts

a better test than the compression, i hear, is a leak down test.

i'm not exactly sure what it is or how it is done,

but i hear it is more informative.

 

basically it finds out how slow or fast the compression leaks out.

fast is bad, slow is good.

 

if you have a bad valve,

you may be able to hear the compression escaping as you turn the engine over by hand.

plugs in of course.

 

check the timing.

if you can take a close up pic of each cam's position,

hash marks or arrows, and post it here.

(remember the arrows are NOT for installing a new timing belt, the hash marks are.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought you once said that if you drop the exhaust a dropped valve could be noted?

 

A while ago (months ago now) I did a compression test and it was only 70 something.

 

This morning I talked with the guy that sold me the car and he is going to search for another engine. I am through with this one.

 

Before reading your post I did read the fsm. There was a bit of something that didn't quite line up on the right side of the car. Oddly that is the bank that never threw the codes.

 

Doesn't matter now because I'll be dumping in another engine.

 

 

don't do this,

i don't know what it will show you .

but this is not the diagnostic i would apply.

 

 

 

the cams and crank sprockets have both hash marks for installing a new timing belt,

and arrows for checking if the timing is right.

(the arrows ARE NOT for installing a new belt.)

if you remove the cam timing covers,

and turn the engine over by hand (22mm? socket and breaker bar?)

at some point the marks will come to the top.

if the hash marks (or arrows) on the cams match then you are still in time.

(remember the arrows are NOT for installing a new timing belt.)

but if one side is pointing differently, enve one or two teeth differently,

then it has jumped time.

it takes more work to check the crank timing, removing the center cover.

but it is unlikely that the cams match and the crank does not,

UNLESS some one installed the belt wrong to begin with.

 

the cam hash marks are on the front, outer edge of the sprockets.

the arrows are obvious on the spokes.

the crank hash mark is on the REAR flange / tab of the sprocket.

the arrow is a small triangle on the front face.

 

pull the cam covers, 3 bolts each side,

and check the cam timing.

 

if the timing is correct the next step is compression.

pay someone to do it ,

or take the time and trouble to do it yourself, correctly.

 

good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use