Replacing timing belt, should I replace tensioner?

[Zootal]

1994 Legacy. I'm replacing timing belt. The kit comes with waterpump, belt, rollers, etc. But NO tensioner. The engine has 180,000 miles. Should I replace the tensioner also? Or are these tensioners good for many 100,000's miles?

[1fast4by]

Yes, replace the tensioner everytime.

[Kennyfvholla]

Yes... Replace the tensioner unless you want to be back in there replacing everything and then some.

[Zootal]

Thanks! Any practical advice on how to stop the engine from rotating when removing crankshaft pulley? And when I go to torque it back on?

[Zootal]

And...the kit came with something called "tensioner" but what it actually is, is the idler gear, not the little hydraulic tensioner itself. I want to make sure we are talking about the little tensioner thing itself, the one you have to use a vice to retract in order to get it back in. So O'Reilly has one made by Gates for $90. I just want to make sure we are talking about the same part, the little hydraulic cylinder, not the gear, and that this gets replaced when you replace the timing belt and pulleys.

[1fast4by]

yes, replace the hydraulic tensioner

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2153806&cc=1269806

 

$60 on RockAuto

[Zootal]

<sigh> OK. 20 years old, 180,000 miles. Sounds like a really good idea. Got one on order....

[1fast4by]

I find that 9 times out of 10 when Im replacing timing belts the tensioner has started to leak anyways... And thats on MUCH newer vehicles with much less miles...

[johnegg]

it is almost never a bad idea to replace old parts with new ones.

 

but the old style tensioners used up until the 98 MY were very reliable and rarely fail.

(the piston, not the idler.)

and if they do fail, leak , it is easy to tell it is bad.

on top of that, ej22 engines 90 - 96 are noninterference,

so a tensioner failure will not cause major damage.

of course it will leave you stranded.

 

they can fail, and sometimes do,

but if you do a search on several different forums,

i doubt you will find very many posts dealing with failed old style, 2 piece, tensioners.

 

i know some folks who swap in a used, old style, tensioner when they do the timing belt on a 98+ ej25.

 

so i my opinion, inspect the part and then decide.

replacement is not mandatory.

i have done several of these and never replaced one.

(but replacing the idler should be done.)

 

post 98 however,

ALWAYS replace the tensioner.

they are designed differently and fail much more often.

and of course by 98 all ej engines are interference so a failure is going to cost you.

 

just saying.

[Zootal]

Kinda makes you wonder - why, oh why, is it that when car makers find something that works, they can't just keep using it but have to come up with a design that is much less reliable? We've been making cars for over 100 years, and you would think that by now we would have figured out what works and what doesn't? I'm just sayin....

[Zootal]

Oh, yeah, any words of advice on how to get bolt off of front of crank? IE how to keep engine from turning, and especially so when I torque it back on?

[cal71919]

Kinda makes you wonder - why, oh why, is it that when car makers find something that works, they can't just keep using it but have to come up with a design that is much less reliable? We've been making cars for over 100 years, and you would think that by now we would have figured out what works and what doesn't? I'm just sayin....

 

You won't get rich making stuff that lasts forever. I did a visual on mine and put it right back in.

[monkeyposeur]

Oh, yeah, any words of advice on how to get bolt off of front of crank? IE how to keep engine from turning, and especially so when I torque it back on?

 

You can do it a few ways. One method is to place a large breaker bar on the bolt and rest the end on either the frame or the ground (depending on how long it is) and blip the starter. Works like a charm. Just make sure the bar is placed correctly in the direction that the engine will turn.

 

Alternatively there are two access holes on the side of the engine, one on each side, that you can stick in a flathead screwdriver and it will jam the flywheel teeth so it can't move. Then you can break the bolt free.

 

I asked a Subaru tech and he said they reuse the old style tensioner as long as it is not weeping. But I replace mine.

 

Here is a pic of the screwdriver trick taken by johnegg:

[Zootal]

You can do it a few ways. One method is to place a large breaker bar on the bolt and rest the end on either the frame or the ground (depending on how long it is) and blip the starter. Works like a charm. Just make sure the bar is placed correctly in the direction that the engine will turn.

 

Alternatively there are two access holes on the side of the engine, one on each side, that you can stick in a flathead screwdriver and it will jam the flywheel teeth so it can't move. Then you can break the bolt free.

 

I asked a Subaru tech and he said they reuse the old style tensioner as long as it is not weeping. But I replace mine.

 

Here is a pic of the screwdriver trick taken by johnegg:

 

TYVM! I had no idea you could do that!

 

So some say replace some say no. I think that considering it is 20 years old I'm going to replace it this time around, and probably not replace it next time if it's not leaking. It's wifey's car and if it breaks, I'm in big trouble. The cost of a new tensioner buys a ton of comfort (and peace and quiet).

[1fast4by]

Thats the way I've always viewed it.. cheap insurance

[mailman]

replace it, and don't forget to do your seals while you're in there

[TbirdMan]

As for the bolt, a third way that works for automatics that I use is to put a pry bar or large screwdriver through the flex plate bolt access hole at the top of the engine and engage it in one of the holes in the flex plate. works like a charm and alot easier to get at then the side holes.