BlackWiddow Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 3 days ago I bought a 1995 legacy 2.2 lsi that shifts like it's in sport mode. I looked at the 20 pin tcu plug and there's nothing in the 4th pin's slot, I looked to make sure the tcu unit had never been opened just in case the prev. owner didn't try to solder a wore from the circuit inside the tcu. I'm throwing a bank 2 O2 inefficiency code, but that is all. It Shifts late, barely have to push on the gas and it downshifts like sport mode.....any thoughts? It has a slight rod knock starting and would like to get it to shift normal to try to prolong the rod until I can get another engine together for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 all the 4eat auto trans of the 90s have a hard 1-2 shift. harder then other makes, anyway. not so much in the 2-3 or 3-4 shifts though. rod knock in a 95 ej22 is pretty rare, really rare unless abused. not impossible , but by no means common. valve tick from the HLAs, hydraulic lash adjusters, is very common. especially for a dirty engine, or one that has been sitting, or low on oil..... solutions for valve tick start with let it idle just drive it and ignore it put in fresh oil add an engine cleaner, MMO, for a 300 - 500 miles, or take it out for a spirited drive or lastly remove the collapse adjusters, clean and bleed them and reinstall. or replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackWiddow Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 It's a rod knock, Iv'e heard allot of rods knock in my days, and lifter tick. It's coming from the pass. side. I'm pretty sure it was abused, bought it from young kids with turbo's teg's. it just revs to almost 4k 'till it shifts, I have to go through a canyon every week with a decent incline and it drops down into 3rd at 4k revs even if the cruise control is on at 60. planning on either a 2.2/2.5d hybrid or a 2.5/2.2 hybrid build to get more performance out of it. Didn't hear it when we bought it, let it run for a hour and sounded smooth. Took it home on the 60 mile drive, and still sounded smooth. took it back on the 120 mile round trip drive the second day, got home and heard the slight knock. 3 days later and you can deff. hear the knock. Oil looks fairly clean, feels good, no silver as far as I can see in the oil. But i'm 100% sure it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hello; The oil sender is below the alternator, remove this and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. The thread is a 1/8 inch npt. See what kind of oil pressure you have. A faulty knock sensor, cam sensor, and crank sensor can cause the engine to knock! A loose harmonic balancer could be knocking, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 ok, it's rod knock. you may as well forget trying to make it last. just start looking for another engine. any trouble lights on at start up? any flashing light on at start up? rod knock could maybe throw a knock sensor code. this would retard your timing and cause a loss of power. i would look for a wrecked 95 - 96 lego with a good drive train. buy the whole thing, use what you need, engine and trans? and scrap the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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