robmat Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I took the wagon in for an alignment and was told the cam bolts/nuts in the rear are seized and the shop could not perform the alignment for fear of breaking the bolts. They recommended I treat the bolts with PB blaster and attempt to free them myself before bringing the car back. I've been at it for about a week now alternating PB Blaster and WD Blue Torch. I've also tried heating the nuts with no luck. Anyone have any suggestions? If I took it to the dealer for an alignment, would they be any better suited for the job? Thanks so much Robmat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Don't you have another thread on this? How much heat are you applying to the nuts and for how long? Are you trying to turn the nut right after heating? It's possible that you'll need to order a new set of nuts and bolts and grind the old ones off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmat Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Whoa, wait, did I double up? Haha. Maybe 20-30 of mapp torch heat then immediately trying to loosen... Ok, part number search is on then...it may end up being easier to grind the things off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 acetylene torch ftw. I had to use one on my old legacy with seized toe arm bolts. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryD Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 For what its worth, I would suggest trying a different penetrating oil product before resorting to grinding them off. I have had excellent results with CRC FREEZ-OFF (sp?). Auto parts stores as well as WalMart usually carry it. With this, you flood the bolt/nut for maybe 10 seconds, let it sit for a few, and then spin it off. The refrigerant cools the thread joint, breaks the rust bond, and allows the penetrating oil to wick in. I was at the same point as you trying to remove studs from an up-pipe, including the torch heating - no dice. Tried the FREEZ-OFF and they spun off like I had just installed them yesterday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 We use a sawzall on them and then replace with new bolts... -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaru03 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Are you talking about the toe adjustment bolts? The dealer will cut out and replace the control arms because they a typically seized in the bushing. I replaced my bushings but still couldn't get with in a good range cause its a lowered outback. I went with the megan adjustables arms for toe adjustment and the whiteline bushing kit for camber adjustment. oh and what the others said sawzall is your best bet. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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