Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Where to find a used 2.5L


Recommended Posts

Hello All

I'm looking for a replacement engine for my 98 Legacy wagon with auto trans.

 

One of the regulars here posted a web link that would show me all the used engines within XX miles of my zip code. That's the info I'm looking for right now.

 

I did do a search, but kept using the wrong terms. Any help at all would be appreciated.

 

PS: I did go to www.carparts.com but couldn't find where they sold complete engines, just individual "parts"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, Your style of "dry humor"?: that way yu will not need us any more.

 

Last night I went to the site and found a used engine for a $1,000. Today, just for the halibut I went to the local Pick -UR - Part. (Been there 6 or 7 times - not a single Subaru in the place!!!) But TODAY I struck gold (may just be gold plated). Found a '97 Subaru Outback with a 25D engine, 186,000 miles. Engine looks brand new! That's probably the bad part. Going back tomorrow to check it our and probably take it home for $214.00. It's all in too good of shape. Even has a good cup holder, which I've hidden for now. Hopefully the prevoius owner put a new engine in and then blew the tranny. I can wish, can't I?? My existing engine is in bad shape. Blew the HG (standard problem) but also slipped the timing belt and the cam pulleys on the passenger side are locked!! Being I want to keep this car for a few more years, a spare engine sounds practical to me. Whichever ones is the cheapest to get running will be going in soon.

 

Hired a mechanic to do the work. Too overloaded with my own business - home repair/remodeling. When you're self employed you have to take work when it's available. Just paid 2 "apprentices" for some fence painting. They're both 11 years old and do darn good painting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look closely you can tell wither or not the HG were replaced or not. Old gaskets will be rusted and news ones should look, well newer. If they look rusted and old I would probably pass on that engine because with 186k you could have headgaskets that are blown already. Buying 25d's from a junk yard is a big gamble, especially with this many miles, and being these engines are well known for headgaskets. GL.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

please tell me you mean washington DC????? im really hoping you mean DC not the washington on the side of the county i cant get to

 

Nope- his profile says Lynwood, WA (I notice there are lot of folks from Washington state ion this forum). Of course of a few of us from VA too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, back on topic. My original engine is TOAST!! (I'll post pics as soon as I can). Pulled the engine from a '97 Outback today. It has compression when I turn the crank by hand. As when I took out the flex plate bolts. The plugs are clean and have good color.

 

 

My question is: Is there some tool I can rent that is powerful enough to spin the crank and chack the compression properly?

 

 

My Real master mechanic (who refers to me as “Dad”) says I should just have the mechanic inspect everything for leaks, take off the valve cover and check the cam seals. Put in a new water pump, move the “new” timing belt and pulley's for the old engine to the new engine and fire it up.

 

 

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

My Real master mechanic (who refers to me as “Dad”) says I should just have the mechanic inspect everything for leaks, take off the valve cover and check the cam seals. Put in a new water pump, move the “new” timing belt and pulley's for the old engine to the new engine and fire it up.

 

 

Any thoughts?

 

sounds like a good plan. smart kid. i think i would check the oil pump bolts for tightness, as well as the seals for crappiness. i would also take a gander at the rear oil separator plate, to make sure it has been replaced with a non plastic one.

 

as for the turning the crank thing, how fast do you need to spin it to get compression? you can do it fairly easily with a 1/2" ratchet on the main pulley bolt, which should give you the ability to get 3 turns in fairly quickly, especially if it is on a stand, out of the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In order to get an accurate compression reading you would need to spin it about 250rpms. That's what a starter spins. So if you have the ability to attach a trans and starter, it would be ideal.

That being said, if you spin it with a socket and you get the same compression from each cylinder then it's a good sign. When I have done this I usually get about 50psi. Just make sure your not losing your compression through your coolant ports :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That being said, if you spin it with a socket and you get the same compression from each cylinder then it's a good sign. When I have done this I usually get about 50psi. Just make sure your not losing your compression through your coolant ports

 

this

 

My Real master mechanic (who refers to me as “Dad”) says I should just have the mechanic inspect everything for leaks, take off the valve cover and check the cam seals. Put in a new water pump, move the “new” timing belt and pulley's for the old engine to the new engine and fire it up.

and this.

 

i would check the oil pump bolts for tightness, as well as the seals for crappiness.

 

and this,

remove the oil pump,

replace the o-ring,

check the screws on the back, (i leave them alone if they are tight.)

and reseal the pump to the block,

 

 

plus replace the oil separator plate on the back of th block if it is plastic and / or leaking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update on the the engine replacement project.

 

 

It's not running yet.

 

 

I have a '98 legacy limited that “supposedly” has an EJ25D motor in it, according to the fender sticker.

 

 

I pulled another motor out of a '97 Outback where the label said EJ25D.

 

 

The '97 donor car DID have a recently rebuilt engine in it. Re-builders tag on the engine.

 

 

First problem: The donor engine's timing belt tensioner has a TWO hole mount and mine has the SINGLE hole mount. Easily fixed.

 

 

Real problem :The mechanic put the engine in the car and started putting everything back in and THEN went to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. The donor engines flexplate outer bolt pattern is larger by “a bolt hole”

The obvious fix, which he's going to do Monday is to TRY to switch my old flex plate onto the donor engine.

 

 

Question 1: Is this going to work? Bolts in the center WILL line up?

 

 

Question2; What engine did I really get? And what other problems are we going to have?

 

 

PS: This sure is a busy website! LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes it will work.

 

one of your engines was mated to an auto trans that was originally in an ej22 car.

probably the 98 limited.

the auot trans that comes from the factory in the ej22 cars has a smaller torque converter and a smaller flex plate.

 

swap in the original flex plate and install the engine.

flex plate has to match the trans.

 

i'm a little surprised you have gotten this far and do not know the difference between an ej25d DOHC, and an ej22 SOHC.

the ej25D has 4 ''lobes, cams'' on the timing cover, 2 on each side.

the ej22 has only 2, one on each side.

 

see if you can tell the difference in the pics below.

 

if both engines have 4 cams, then the trans was swapped in one of the cars.

 

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg240/johnceggleston/timingbeltdiagramej25.gif

 

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg240/johnceggleston/timingbeltdiagram.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, the donor engine ALSO has a blown head gasket! My son, the expert mechanic, called me on the way home from work to see if my Subaru was running. After I gave him the sad facts he says; "Why didn't you do a leakdown test? That would have told you what you needed to know." DUHHHHHHHHH!!!! I mean, I did know about doing a leakdown test. I've just been SOOOOOO busy in my own work.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use