Jmalav Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 So my 98 lgt I has brand new raybestos calipers brand new rotors brand new pads on the front, back are still stock have rotors and pads but waiting for calipers, anyways. Brand new master cylinder just flushed lines with ate type 200. THE BRAKES ARE STILL SLIGHTLY RUBBING IN FRONT AND BACK WITH ALL NEW COMPONENTS!! Could it be an issue with abs module? My abs light is on but figured it was just a speed sensor all four calipers slightly rub. The car did sit for 8 years before I got it hence me doing everything but this is really starting to annoy me any info would be appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4 Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Very slight rubbing is normal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho subaru Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 ^^^agreed.^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 if you really want you can get a trouble code from the ABS. http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=12056 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmalav Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Is it? Maybe I'm just really picky and I'm always listening for things being paranoid lol, if either of you come up to seattle let me know I'd like someone elses opinion, yeah thanks mailman I've read that thread it's good when I get a chance I will I was just wondering if the abs module could be keeping pressure on the brakes or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 ABS rubbing is not normal. it is probably dirt and / or rust. clean them off. and there should not be any rubbing on brakes after the pads are seated. if it continues, i would take it apart and look for the rub. unless cleaning the abs sensor fixes it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmalav Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Are you talking about cleaning the speed sensors? The pads are constantly pressed against I can see it, with everything being new I had the brakes bled by a brake shop btw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassnectar Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 after installing new pads. expect a rubbing noise that lessens over the first 500 miles. A way to test for excessive rubbing would be to take your car out for awhile and perform several medium - heavy braking applications. get out and touch your rim on each corner of the vehicle.. if one rim is hotter than the others chances are your caliper piston / seal is not retracting as much as it is supposed to. all that being said light rubbing is to be expected. but my method will help you identify a sticking calliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 I upgraded my brakes a couple years ago. I used "new" remanufactured calipers, but I wish that I had the budget at the time to go with genuine new Subaru calipers after I saw this video from a Subaru shop in Seattle: Although my brakes have performed well in general, they have constantly rubbed "a tiny bit" in normal driving. About 2 years after installation I noticed a "hot" odor coming from the car on occasion, and it took me a couple weeks before I realized that one of those "new" remanned rear calipers was not always releasing and was clamping the rotor while driving down the road. I promptly replaced the faulty caliper (under warranty) and everything has been fine for the past year... but still, the constant bit of rub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmalav Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Good video man yeah I actually did those test and the reybestos puts new pistons in, but all my brakes are constantly rubbing not just the front new ones but the back ones also which are still old leads me to believe the problems has to lie somewhere else within the system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I don't understand the whole "rubbing" deal. What do you mean by this? Like a metal to metal noise? With the car in the air and trans in neutral can you spin each wheel with somewhat ease or are they or one of them hard to spin? Can you take pics of each rotor? We might be able to see if the rotor has heat spots from a caliper that is tighter then they should be. You said you replaced the calipers but did they have the caliper mounting brackets? If not then it's most likely seized caliper slides. If a metal noise then check the backing plates. I've seen over the years the rear backing plates rust up really bad and make contact with the rotors, both front and back could do this. You mentioned you flushed it but how did the fluid come out of the bleeder valve, strong or weak? If a rubber brake line is collapsed inside it will keep the caliper engaged causing the wheels to be tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmalav Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 The brake pads are constantly touching the rotor. calipers came with new bracket, Ill pull the wheel off and take pictures today. Yeah i flushed them they all came out strong. If i was just one brake hose wouldnt it just affect that one wheel. So basically what im saying with the car up on jack stands in gear you hear and can see brake pads against the rotor, Backing plate are in good shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I understand better now. Yes a rubber hose would only effect that one wheel. Now, the pads will always have contact with the rotors, if they were backed off to the point of clearance between the pads and rotors the pads could make noise when you drove over rough roads. Plus you would have a weird petal. When I replace brakes I ALWAYS heat cycle them by just driving at 30-40 and slamming on the brakes repeating 4-5 times then driving around for another 15 mins to allow the brakes to cool down. If the wheels are hard to spin that means there would be a problem with the hydraulics but not the abs. Being that you said the fluid came out strong I think your trying to see a problem that isn't there. Let the pads work in and go from there. Long as a wheel isn't locked up ur fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmalav Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Yeah I think I was too thanks spooln I'm pretty sure it's the wheel bearing after closer inspection doi!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I like the centric calipers/rotors/pads. I had a brand new raybestos caliper lock up and ruin the rotor, wheel bearing, and pads. Not cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmalav Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Yeah I wish I woulda seen the centric a first but live and learn lol that's crazy though I hope that doesn't happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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