AmishMatt Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 99 legacy with 202k on a 2.2/4EAT No Codes No Trans trans temp light Recently swapped 6 quarts ran for 60 miles, drained, swap filter, and added another 4 quarts in the transmission. Fluid still looks like poo, getting better, doesn't smell burnt, but it doesn't smell like roses either. I drained it thru a coffee filter and showed ZERO debirs. Ok, what is happening it that it will bog down when attempting to accelerate. it will slowly climb up to about 3700 to 4000 rpm then it will kick in and almost feels like it got a little shot It will do this regardless of gear. Speedometer is also not working. I don't think the transmission is slipping,because I applied the brakes and gas at the same time and the RPM's didn't climb. it feels almost like a TPS problem, but again I am not throwing any codes. I remember reading the the transmission ecu will throw the transmission in to a default 3rd gear option if the solenoids are faulty, but wouldn't this throw a code ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Clean your MAF and check your fuel pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmishMatt Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Clean your MAF and check your fuel pressure. Could this be an unmetered air issue? Not really feeling like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 I had a bogging issue and after months of troubleshooting replacing the MAF fixed it. I replaced the fuel pump and it helped a bit but ultimately it was the MAF. I also had a lot of vacuum leaks. At least cleaning the MAF is easy and cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmishMatt Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Hmm the sit since 2011 and had rat shit at knock sensor location hence replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLDLEGACYWAGON Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Let me know what works. I have replaced MAF sensor, fuel filter, coil,wires,plugs, cleaned throttle body with carb cleaner, checked for vac leaks,cleaned the PCV, checked the EGR valve, sprayed cleaner through the IACV, pulled the TPS off and put it back on adjusting it until I got the best possible throttle response but still have terrible hesitation when cold and milder when warmed up. So many possibilities..waiting on the fuel pressure tester I ordered to come in and a haynes book as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmishMatt Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 First I would see why the Speedo isn't working. If the speed sensor on the trans isn't working it could cause the trans not to shift correctly. It seems like it's not going into the correct gear when needed. Another thing I might suggest, if your trans fluid was really bad imo I wouldn't have flushed it out. Once the poor maintenance of a trans develops the clutch materials will wear off the clutch packs and go into the fluid. Then when you change the fluid your taking what in most cases is holding your trans together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corlon Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 could be the ecm issue. if you or a buddy have a scan tool that can read timing see if when it bogs if your timing drops to around -10 degrees. if so it maybe the recall ecm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmishMatt Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Is there a recall part number bracket? Would matter if it was a postal model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLDLEGACYWAGON Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 I went out and pulled the plug on the ECTS. Wish that was as easy as it is to type! Whew, how frustrating. There is no room there at all. I had to remove a load of other things to get to it then it liked to never come unplugged. So, after all that I put the car back together leaving the ECTS plug disconnected. I got a CEL for P0117 and the radiator fan stays on most all the time but, here's the important bit, the car runs exactly the same, (that is badly cold and little better warm, badly below 2000rpm and fine above 2000rpm), as with the ECTS plugged in. Not having the ECTS made NO DIFFERENCE to the engine drivability, (just the aforementioned CEL and fan running). So can anyone with experience tell me does that mean it IS a bad ECTS or no?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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