Radiator replacement advice needed

[jazzgitah]

My 98 Legacy 2.2 AWD Wagon has a small crack in radiator....plastic 1 row. I see that amazon has one for $80....any good? How difficult are they to diy? I'm not super adept other than oil, filters and plugs.

 

I also need a power steering pump, but need to get the radiator done first. Anyone go down this road and have advice? Thx

[spooln30]

To R&I a new radiator is pretty simple in our cars and for a novice shouldn't take longer than 1 1/2 hours. Far as aftermarket radiators quality it depends on the brand. Koyo seem to be the best in quality and fitment where others might have misaligned holes for the cooling fans or a trans cooler line fitting too large making the rubber trans line rub against the frame rail. This was my case with a radiator bought from Napa, took it back and the other one was the same so I just modified and she's all good.

If I were you and depending on your cars mileage, I would replace the thermostat but only with a OEM SUBARU part. Also use a good coolant like a long/extended life. I always run the Red Toyota long life coolant in everything I own. When I worked for Toyota I went to a tech class and seen testing about coolant and the Toyota was the best rated coolant. It doesn't harm aluminum parts or turn into mud like that crap DexCool. Remember to use distilled water not tap water. There's too much garbage in tap water that's not good for vehicles. GL

[spooln30]

I forgot one thing. Replace all of the hose clamps with new ones.

[Idaho subaru]

Second all that ^^^

 

It's not that difficult, just take your time, don't force anything. The hardest part, being your first time, will be getting all the air out of the system afterwards. Do a search for "burping" the cooling system, follow the tips, and when you think you're done, do it again.

[SBT]

Make sure that the radiator is specific to your transmission. If 4EAT, there's a trans cooler inside the radiator and hose nipples to connect your trans fluid lines on the radiator, 5MT does not have this. Stick with Subaru Long Life Coolant and use the Subaru Coolant Conditioner - use distilled water for the other 50% of the mix. And definitely replace the thermostat and the bottom hose too, unless they're both relatively new.

 

Burp it properly and you'll be good to go.

 

Are you sure you need to replace the PS pump. Leaking or squalling? If leaking, it's likely the $1.00 O-ring at the bottom. If squalling, then likely just needs bled with new fluid. There was a walk-through posted in this section a few days ago.

[spooln30]

Oh yeah I forgot the PS pump. Don't buy a new or reman just get a rebuilt kit from Subaru or Napa. Yeh two parts that always seem to leak would be the front seal and the oring between the pump and reservoir. You don't even have to remove the PS pump off the engine. Both repairs can be done easily with it still attached.

For burping just fill the radiator with the bleeder plug on the right side top removed till coolant comes out the bleeder then install that plug. Then start the car, turn the heat on with the blower on max, and run it for about 15 mins or until the t stat opens up and you get nice hot air from the HVAC. I always will rev the engine at 2500 for 5 mins then let idle the rest of time.

[jazzgitah]

Great advice! I ordered a TYC 1839 radiator (is supposed to be made by koyo or the other way around) that is a direct fit replacement. I guess I'll give it a shot since my nearby mechanic quoted $300+ for just the labor??? It sounds pretty straight forward....any more install advice or little things to watch out for is appreciated.

 

AND, that PS pump fix, without having to remove and replace pump sounds great. Mine doesn't squeal....just leaks. I'll do search, but, again, any firsthand advice would be great. (Maybe I'll start a new thread if search doesn't work).

 

Thx again guys.

[spooln30]

Yeah the PS front shaft seal and the reservoir oring are easy. First drain the fluid, I usually remove the return line near the pump and start the car and run it until most of the fluid is out and into a drain pan or a plastic gallon milk jug. Using the milk jug or similar is a lot easier and less messy. Trust me. For the front seal just remove the belt then the pulley and pry the seal out with a seal puller or equivalent. To install the new seal get a deep wall socket the same size of the outer most part of the seal but also large enough to fit over the pumps shaft. Now on the reservoir, remove the bolt and wiggle out. Install same as removal. GL and remember our cars use Dex3 or higher for the power steering fluid and using regular PS fluid will only damage parts of the PS system. Most people think every car takes regular power steering fluid which isn't the case especially with Honda's. They really hate PS fluid other then the Honda fluid. Again GL.

[SBT]

Power Steering Repair/Rebuild Seal Rebuild Kit:

P/N: 34419AA150

Fits: 1995-1999 Subaru Legacy

Price: Retail-$38.00 Online $29.80

 

Power Steering O-Ring Under Pump Reservoir Replacement (included in above)

P/N: 34427AA060

Fits: 1995-1999 Subaru Legacy

Price: Retail- $1.50 Online $1.10