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MAINERS!!! Need a shop!


Dr_Tiwa

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  • 2 weeks later...
I've been looking around all over the place just small hot rod dyno businesses I've only heard of decent places in NH. There used to be a shop around called F1 Dyno but I guess they closed down. Difficult to be a subi enthusiast when you can only get work done at Quirk...
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  • 3 weeks later...
From the area. I've been slowly trying to upgrade my LGT that I picked up while I was on leave from a deployment. The Quirk dudes are pretty irritating when it comes to trying to get a couple things done. I ordered a Gates racing timing belt kit and they really didn't want to install that and they carry absolutely no performance fluids and I really don't wanna buy them without a dealers license. Been trying to get an STi swap up in the LGT too but trying to find anybody with some tuning experience is proving to be very difficult. Finally got my hands on an intake manifold and tgv's but still gotta get all the remaining items. I have no idea what the integrity of the turbo, engine, or transmission is. It's killing me...
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Well it's really not any different other than cams. But I bought an LGT for the purpose of essentially going STi but really the only thing I'm doing is swapping intake manifolds (because my cover did a lit of damage to my olf plastic one and I picked up and STi intake and top feed TGV's for real cheap), turbo, intercooler (hate the LGT's anyways), injectors, and I'm probably gonna try and go Spec B transmission and rear diff. I was also going to just pull my engine and go stage 2 but its cheaper just to buy a new sti stage 2 short block...

 

 

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I think I had stage 2 up on a pedestal I assume. Been listening to the wrong people...lol...but I do still plan on getting a stage 2 short block at some point...3k sounds a lot better than the 8k that the tuner wanted...

 

 

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I'm not sure I've heard the term "stage 2 short block"

 

You either have a stock long block, a built short block or a built motor.

 

Some people upgrade valves, springs and cams too. That would be a complete build (plus a few things I didn't list).

 

If you want a a reliable 350whp, do some drop in forged pistons and have your heads rebuilt with better valves, springs and some better head studs. You'll need injectors, fuel pump, bigger turbo and you might get away with a high quality TMIC.

 

Search around the forum. Talk to Bren Tuning. He's not local to you.... but he's always willing to help and the drive to MA is worth it to have someone who knows your car inside and out. I'd take my car to Motive in Danvers MA and let Hero build it and bren tune it.

Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT
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You can search em. They have em on just about any built engine sites. They'll have like oem spec, Stage 1 racing block, and so and so forth. And I completely agree about the mass thing too. I'll be honest, I'm a mainer, but I'm deployed also from my home base which is in NY. So I'm not sure where the majority of my tuning will take place. But thanks for the recommendations.

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

See my Shopping List and rebuild thread.

 

First things first, get a compression test done. At over 100k, you're right to not expect stellar performance or longevity from the block, however, it's fine for DD duty. Get the basics done and get comfortable with the power it has at stock or Stage 2 -- It's usually more than enough for most people. A fast car with a slow/inexperienced driver is still slow. A slow car with a fast/experienced driver will always be faster.

 

If you want some kind of dragmonster that eats everything on the way to work, you're driving the wrong car. Get a Mustang, or something with more than 4 cylinders. Also, get a good traffic lawyer.

 

I get that you're military and you've got some cash to throw around at the car and you're looking for a high-hp build. That said, just like they tell you in basic, "If you order your food by number, you're doing it wrong", same goes for motors: If you order some "custom" motor online, you're doing it wrong. It likely will not end well for you.

 

Stock block can handle the power you seek. Anything above 350 and you're really just wasting your money on blowing up parts. (read: transmissions) These cars just weren't meant to be 500+ HP monsters. Heck, stock they're pretty capable, but, no one wants to hear that, they just wanna know the quickest route to never seeing taillights after the third honk.

 

If you're serious about a built motor, see the thread about aftermarket pistons. Then see WaspGT's build thread. Then see Turkeylord's thread. There are more threads with forged internal builds, both done at home, and paid-for, that require an immediate rebuild shortly after the first crank than those that end with "I just passed the 10k mark and my Blackstone OA came back really positive!" Forged internals are less important than the tune. Spend the money on a good tune. And retune, and retune. .

 

Set some goals for the car. What do you want the end result to be, other than just an expensive pile of top-name-brand parts on wheels? What are YOUR goals, as an owner and driver? Do you want to be fast? -er than your friends with more money invested?

 

I personally know a driver here (Boxkita) who has a racemotor in his wagon. It's got the fancy forged internals, blah blah blah, still has stock injectors and TGVs running a 68HTA. He asked for 335/335, no more. On the first dyno run, they blew that number out of the water. He asked them to turn it down. After picking their jaws up off the floor, they did. Even at 335, he blew 5th gear. Currently working on 5MT number two. .

 

He did quite a few days at The Ridge lapping Ferarris and Porches, all much, much more expensive than his 10yr old wagon. They were all shocked to not only get passed by a grocery-getter, but, one with at least 100 less HP. The difference is they were easy-money pricks who spent the money on the car, and not on their skills.

 

The moral of the story is that the parts don't make you fast. The car doesn't make you fast. It's you. It always boils down to who's behind the wheel, not what's inside the wheels. They help, for sure. But the parts aren't always the answer.

 

So before you dive headlong into "STi-Swap", learn about what you've got, what you still need, and what your goals are. You, your car, and most importantly, your pocketbook, will be better for it.

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Yeah, as you can tell, this thread is pretty old. I was new to the forum and Subaru world really. I saw a bunch of stuff that looked good and thought I wanted it. Truth is I don't have a lot of money to through around. I have a small family. Wife and child and live practically paycheck to paycheck. Hell I spend more money on my wife's ford than I do on my car. My car since has been a handful of DIY projects, from reupholstering my interior, to replacing my radio without SVxdc's harness, to popping out a locked brake piston with an old brake disc and a jack stand. I understand my goals now and really its all just getting my car to the condition I wish it was in. Rust in the back corner of my rear fenders and leaking steering rack. Whatever I can do for cheap is really what its been about recently. My ideas of what I wanted a year ago were childish and quite frankly, childish. I thank everyone on the forum who shed light on my dumb ideas and pointed me in the right direction. Although I do still wish I had a car that could shit on a mustang at the third beep, my back seat has a baby seat in it, and at the end of the day I make it home, that's all that really matters. That being said, will still probably do a catback and intake to keep my ears happy and my fingers tingly

 

 

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Saw this thread pop up, as a Mainer who has a had an LGT for over 3 years now finding anyone who has a clue about a banjo bolt filter is hard. There is a shop in the Portland area, maybe Falmouth who works on only subarus, and if you have a turbo only the owner will do work, a buddy takes his forestor xt there. I have just recently found a local shop with a subaru enthusiast on the pay role who I will be taking my 05 to for everything moving forward.
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  • 2 years later...
First off is anyone in here from Maine and who of you knows any good shops around?

 

Check out Chip's Subaru in Portland. In my opinion, they are the best Subaru shop around. They are a great group of guys working there with many years of experience. I've been in the automotive industry selling car parts at local dealerships for the past 20 years. And they have a great reputation for great work at even better prices. Hope this helps you out.

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