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Dyno results for Rob Tune on '93 SS


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Posted this on the LegacyCentral bbs and here since I can attach photos.

 

This is running the EJ20G 'Rob Tune' ECU on my 1993 Legacy Sport Sedan.

 

Date: 12/4/2013

Weather: 32F degrees at ~sea level in Seattle

Dyno: Mustang at R & H garage (Mustangs read the lowest, from what I've read, but may be 'truest' #'s)

Stock STI on this dyno: 220HP / 220 ft-lbs

 

Wheel Horsepower*: 183 @ 5251 RPM - weather correction factor (wcf) / 193 max

Wheel Torque: 234 @ 3527 RPM -Wcf / 246 max

 

Setup:

Stock EJ22T and heads

TMIC

"550" STI injectors (525cc)

TD05H (with 90 degree inlet from '93-'96 wrx/STI)

3" bellmouth down pipe

STI Fuel Pump

Rob Tune EJ20G ecu and ignition converter

JECS "green label" MAF

Snorkus removed

 

--MBC set to ~18 psi

--Pull done in 4th gear.

 

 

I'm pretty happy with the results overall. The tuner suggested I go one step colder (7 for ngk's) on the plugs and tighten up even more on the gap. I'm at .030" and he suggested all the way down to .024". Also need to get rid of the stock exhaust behind my aftermarket down pipe.

 

Graphs show a bumpy curve after 4k RPM which is why the tuner suggested the colder plugs. Also runs rich -around 11.0 AFR, but likely due to needing different plugs / gap to burn the fuel.

 

 

 

Graph:

1993SSdyno2013.JPG

 

Colder plug info HERE:

A good rule of thumb is, one Heat Range colder for every 75–100hp added.

 

 

 

*Stock EJ22T Wheel HP/Torque = 130/150; 160/180 @ the CRANK.

 

 

Edit: 5-23-14 - Updated Dyno info:

 

Weather: 65F degrees at ~sea level in Redmond

Dyno: Mustang at Dyno Authority

Stock STI on this dyno: 240HP / 240 ft-lbs

 

 

 

Run 1

HP: 229 HP

Torque: 309 ft-lbs

 

Run 2

HP: 219 HP

Torque: 287 ft-lbs

 

Setup:

Stock EJ22T and heads

TMIC

"550" STI injectors (525cc)

TD05H (with 90 degree inlet from '93-'96 wrx/STI)

3" bellmouth down pipe - NEW: 3" all the way back - added a resonator and Dynomax VT muffler

STI Fuel Pump

Rob Tune EJ20G ecu and ignition converter

JECS "green label" MAF

Snorkus removed

NEW: Mopar (Neon, etc.) coil pack and newer-style EJ22 wires.

NEW: Stock BRK6E plugs gapped to .028

 

--MBC set to ~18.5 psi; pull done in 4th gear.

 

After updating my ignition system w/the Mopar coil pack and getting a full 3" TBE installed I went back to Seattle for another Dyno pull (or 2). Unfortunately, R & H garage is 'in transition' and sold their Mustang, so my original goal of getting runs on the same dyno after the updates is unobtainable. I found another Mustang Dyno shop - Dyno Authority in Redmond, WA. It's owned by Marco Yaya. He was very methodical about the process. Spent 20 minutes checking out my car, followed by 2 "Parasitic Loss / Coast Down" tests to get the most accurate results.

 

The car is running very well, w/the only issue the continued 'cold-start EJ20G phenomenon' that I have yet to fix. The car starts on the 2nd or 3rd try and then runs normally, and the car is fun to drive. On the trip over and back from Seattle, it cruised well and even had fun over the Pass playing catch-up w/a Shelby 500 and R8 (so damn cool).

 

However, I wasn't prepared for these results! The #'s are hard to believe, as their improvement was never felt in my butt-dyno.

 

Using the MAX values above (not the weather-corrected), the HP increase was 36 on the 1st run; 26 on the 2nd. The ft-lbs went up a whopping 63 on the 1st run; 41 on the 2nd.

 

As noted above, this dyno does make slightly higher #'s for a stock STI 240/240 vs. 220/220, per Marco. If I take that into account, and subtract 20, then the #'s are probably closer to reality and comparable. I was also running about ~.5 more boost, which is worth a few.

 

Marco also suggested a cooler plug. I mentioned I'd tried the one-step colder 7's and the plugs were a scary (to me) white color, but he stated that wasn't the true measure; check the AFRs. I recently bought a WB, so I may play w/that but really the car is running so well - why bother??? Also, he thought the AFR's were fine on the two runs @ his shop.

1993SSdyno2013.thumb.jpg.1ef68248d9bb256ce04cf8e31bdf2213.jpg

1839694271_Dynoday2-Run11993SS-.JPG.df7104b9365f86c16b1f0910ceed2ba9.JPG

1923953880_Dynoday2-Run21993SS-.JPG.4dd68b81f6819b00eb465d8ad9d4b795.JPG

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Hello;

Did you actually pull the plugs and look? I would be looking at a coil update, iridium plugs, fifty gap, and step down the heat range one step. Just my two cents, Steven.

 

-No, we didn't pull a plug...shoulda/coulda :rolleyes:

 

-Running the supposedly better Diamond coil pack. I have a Neon coil pack to try out.

 

-Iridium plugs probably wouldn't 'fix' the issue, per this Informative POST. Copper should do fine.

 

- 'fifty gap'? As in .050"? That goes against everything I've read - and was told by the tuner.

 

- The NGK BKR7E is a one-step colder plug. Bigger # = Colder.

 

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/attachments/f103/4541d1260814167-man-show-s-spark-plug-info-ngk-part-number-decoder.jpg

 

Thanks

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I run the ngk 7e with a .024 gap, John at outfrontmotorsports recommended this and he's probably been tuning subarus longer than most in the US. He's been installing ej20g's in sandrails since the early 90's, now he's getting 7-1100hp with the H6's
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Subaru was using 4-coils on plug back in 89 on the ej20g. I think they went with a dual coil setup for emissions, wasted spark. If there was a better plug out then it would have been discovered and been in use by the top tuners. My tuner uses the same plugs to get 6-700 hp out of the 2.5blocks. I used to pay 20$/ea for those ngk 7e plugs 10 years ago, but now they're so common the price has dropped to 3$ ea. I installed 4 aem "dumb' coilpacks becausefactory coilpacks couldn't handle the length of dwell my ecu was creating, other than that the factory coilpacks would have been fine.
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